Lift point / service stand for rear wheel removal

[ploose]

Anybody changed a tire yet or took the rear wheel off? Try to find a solution for an easy way to jack and take rear wheel off for rear gear oil change and tire in the future. Pics are welcome. Thanks in advance!

P

All,

I got my rear wheel off as well, to change the rear wheel gear oil (after break in) and to see what to do when needing a new tire. Shop manual is vague about the necessary details. Here my summary:

- 32mm nut / socket for axle, and size 40 allen for counter hold (right side at gear assembly), 100 Nm for torque of 32mm nut.
- Rear wheel and tire very tight in swing space, be careful not to scratch wheel when taking / handling break caliber , taped with masking tape to protect wheel.
- Took off rear panier bar (rear piece) and license plate assembly to get wheel out...yes it is all that tight back there (ground clearance and lateral clearance, unless you jack jack up way high to drop wheel out ..I did not feel comfortable doing that.
- Took off exhaust after crossover pipe.
- Lifting point at cross member on rear swing assembly (front of rear tire), support with wood blocks then hydraulic jack, front of bike supported with front wheel choke.
- Lack of space, securing break caliper, IT WAS MORE DIFFICULT than on my Cafe Sport! What a bitch job this was for a basic maintenance routine!

 

[john zibell]

Like other bikes without center stands you will need captive wheel chock and a good jack. Something like this http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/42 ... mium-chock and a jack of your choice. The folks at Pit Bull Stands have been made aware of the need for stands for this bike and may be developing a solution as well.

 

[GTM®]

Anybody changed a tire yet or took the rear wheel off? Try to find a solution for an easy way to jack and take rear wheel off for rear gear oil change and tire in the future. Pics are welcome. Thanks in advance!
P

Missed this Peter. I've pulled a few now for rear drive service. They are a major PITA. Awful design really. Per what John says above is good advice. I have a lift with removal able rear panel for the tire, and a bike/scissor jack. I recommend leaving the plastic trim ring off once you do the first service, so you won't have to pull the rim each time for service. It won't look as nice, but I'm a function over form guy when it comes to basic service.

 

[kiwi dave]

I use a generic motorcycle lift intended I believe for Harleys.





The front lifts first, even when the lift is positioned as far back as possible. Tying the front down should alleviate this problem.

 

[ploose]

Like other bikes without center stands you will need captive wheel chock and a good jack. Something like this http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/42 ... mium-chock and a jack of your choice. The folks at Pit Bull Stands have been made aware of the need for stands for this bike and may be developing a solution as well.

THX John

 

[ploose]

I use a generic motorcycle lift intended I believe for Harleys.





The front lifts first, even when the lift is positioned as far back as possible. Tying the front down should alleviate this problem.

Dave,

what's the name of the producer of this lift?

 

[kiwi dave]

Dave,

what's the name of the producer of this lift?

The only marking I can find on it is "X-Tech". I believe there are several variants out there, I just tried this one and it worked.

Sorry I can't be of any further help.

 

[Barenekd]

Harbor Freight sells those lifts.
Bare

 

[wforider]

Header Pipes look like the motor is running hot.

My runs lean looking at the rear of my pipe but my headers have no discolor.

Just a observation.

 

[mmcwhitehead]

ploose said: "32mm nut / socket for axle, and size 40 allen for counter hold (right side at gear assembly)"

I want to assemble the tools I need before I jack up my Cali to pull the wheel. Without pulling the right-hand muffler it's near impossible to see what size wrench is needed. I get the impression by looking at the end of the axle that it's some metric size that's 20 mm or somewhat smaller. I'm not sure what ploose means by a "size 40 allen," any help?

 

[kiwi dave]

It's 14mm hex.

Header Pipes look like the motor is running hot.

This happened when I was riding the bike in California, where temperatures can get quite warm. Since the photo was taken I have replaced the pipes under warranty, and there's no sign of discoloration yet in the milder Kiwi temperatures.

 

[GFMCO]

I flatted out yesterday and will be changing out the rear tire. Have not had first service yet (1500 miles currently).

1) I am pretty new to working on bikes. Is this a pretty beginner job?
2) Should I be doing the rear gear oil change since I will have the wheel off anyways? If so, where would I find the steps I need to perform this?
3) Anything else I should accomplish at this time.

Thanks in advance!

 

[roadventure]

Header Pipes look like the motor is running hot.

My runs lean looking at the rear of my pipe but my headers have no discolor.

Just a observation.

Mine look the same. I attribute it to poor design. The heat shield is attached to the header pipe at the flange, the hottest part of the exhaust (before getting to the catalytic converter). A better idea might have been to allow an air gap between the chrome heat shield and the header flange so there is not so much heat transfer.

 

[roadventure]

They are a major PITA. Awful design really. Per what John says above is good advice.

I recommend leaving the plastic trim ring off once you do the first service, so you won't have to pull the rim each time for service. It won't look as nice, but I'm a function over form guy when it comes to basic service.

Todd,

I couldn't agree more. Add to that the lack of grease on the rear drive spline making it especially "fun" the first time the rear wheel needs to be removed. And, WHO was the Italian intern engineer that decided it would be a good idea to cover the drain port for the rear drive lube? Stupid!

I like your suggestion of leaving the rear drive trim piece off so the rear drive oil can be drained without needing to remove the rear wheel. Regarding appearances; I can't even see the rear drive on my California under normal conditions so leaving the trim off is a "no-brainer".

 

[roadventure]

Anybody changed a tire yet or took the rear wheel off? Try to find a solution for an easy way to jack and take rear wheel off for rear gear oil change and tire in the future.

I got my rear wheel off as well, to change the rear wheel gear oil (after break in) and to see what to do when needing a new tire. Shop manual is vague about the necessary details.

It might help to check out this post:

https://www.guzzitech.com/forums/threads/rear-wheel-removal-what-the-manual-doesnt-tell-you.15229/

I put this up after the first time removing the rear wheel. I agree, a real PITA.

 

[ploose]

ploose said: "32mm nut / socket for axle, and size 14 allen for counter hold (right side at gear assembly)"

I want to assemble the tools I need before I jack up my Cali to pull the wheel. Without pulling the right-hand muffler it's near impossible to see what size wrench is needed. I get the impression by looking at the end of the axle that it's some metric size that's 20 mm or somewhat smaller. I'm not sure what ploose means by a "size 40 allen," any help?[/QUOT

Anybody changed a tire yet or took the rear wheel off? Try to find a solution for an easy way to jack and take rear wheel off for rear gear oil change and tire in the future. Pics are welcome. Thanks in advance!

P

All,

I got my rear wheel off as well, to change the rear wheel gear oil (after break in) and to see what to do when needing a new tire. Shop manual is vague about the necessary details. Here my summary:

- 32mm nut / socket for axle, and size 40

Anybody changed a tire yet or took the rear wheel off? Try to find a solution for an easy way to jack and take rear wheel off for rear gear oil change and tire in the future. Pics are welcome. Thanks in advance!

P

All,

I got my rear wheel off as well, to change the rear wheel gear oil (after break in) and to see what to do when needing a new tire. Shop manual is vague about the necessary details. Here my summary:

- 32mm nut / socket for axle, and size 40 allen for counter hold (right side at gear assembly), 100 Nm for torque of 32mm nut.
- Rear wheel and tire very tight in swing space, be careful not to scratch wheel when taking / handling break caliber , taped with masking tape to protect wheel.
- Took off rear panier bar (rear piece) and license plate assembly to get wheel out...yes it is all that tight back there (ground clearance and lateral clearance, unless you jack jack up way high to drop wheel out ..I did not feel comfortable doing that.
- Took off exhaust after crossover pipe.
- Lifting point at cross member on rear swing assembly (front of rear tire), support with wood blocks then hydraulic jack, front of bike supported with front wheel choke.
- Lack of space, securing break caliper, IT WAS MORE DIFFICULT than on my Cafe Sport! What a bitch job this was for a basic maintenance routine!

allen for counter hold (right side at gear assembly), 100 Nm for torque of 32mm nut.
- Rear wheel and tire very tight in swing space, be careful not to scratch wheel when taking / handling break caliber , taped with masking tape to protect wheel.
- Took off rear panier bar (rear piece) and license plate assembly to get wheel out...yes it is all that tight back there (ground clearance and lateral clearance, unless you jack jack up way high to drop wheel out ..I did not feel comfortable doing that.
- Took off exhaust after crossover pipe.
- Lifting point at cross member on rear swing assembly (front of rear tire), support with wood blocks then hydraulic jack, front of bike supported with front wheel choke.
- Lack of space, securing break caliper, IT WAS MORE DIFFICULT than on my Cafe Sport! What a bitch job this was for a basic maintenance routine!