• Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
  • There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.
  • Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
  • Like the new V100, GuzziTech is full throttle into the future! We're now running on an all-new server and we've updated our Forum software. The visual differences are obvious, but hopefully you'll notice the super-fast speed. If you notice any glitches or have any issues, please post on the Site Support section at the bottom. If you haven't yet, please upgrade your account which is covered in the Site Support section or via the DONATE tab above, which gives you full site access including the DOWNLOADS section. We really appreciate every $ and your support to keep this site ad-free. Create an account, sign in, upgrade your account, and enjoy. See you on the road in 2024.

ECU unplugged

regularguy

Just got it firing!
Joined
Apr 5, 2010
Messages
17
Location
Kempton, PA
Hello all,

Great forum, Lots of good info w/o the usual BS I see on other sights. This is part of why I considered getting a Stelvio. Thanks to everyone. I am a NOOB on forums, please bear with me. Here is the story.

I got a new '09 Stelvio. It has 357 miles total. The alternator has been replaced due to broken stud for ground cable. the cam/lifter recall has been performed at about 75 miles. The right side switch group has been replaced because the start switch has failed. My dealer, (Europa Macchina) has kept me posted during the repairs. They even delivered the bike when it was ready. Thanks Lori & Art. I rode around the block twice, i installed Todd's pipe. WOW! It is like listening to opera when I ride. Thanks Todd.

I rode the bike today, with several start/stop cycles. I had a few friends ride it, all came back with a great big grin, just like mine! I tried to start it an hour after my last ride.....no start. The tach would sweep, the dashlights would come on during the tach sweep and then go out. I checked for neutral, stowed the kickstand, pulled clutch in....no start. Display shows ECU with a graphic of a cord unplugged. Red triangle lights up at top of dash. I try again, reinsert key, same deal, I try spare key with no start. Mode switch not responding, however blinkers do work.

While the bike was operating normally the dash would say insert user code at start, it always worked fine. I did not insert user code and do not know what it is. ( I am a points/carb guy) It has taken some time to learn to work the mode switch. Mode switch seems fussy about dwell time when toggling. I finally got to set time on clock. I figured I could learn the mode switch in my spare time.

Anybody run into a similar situation? Any known solutions?

I have located the ECU. Both cables seem to be fully connected. Is it safe to "cycle" the connectors on the ECU? How might I do this safely?

Thanks in advance for any response.

Craig
 
If you are lucky it might be no more than lack of power from the battery , whats the volt reading at the dash ?

See https://www.guzzitech.com/forum/topic. ... ery#p31727 for some technical background.

If its the battery I would see how it performs after a charge - if its OK it may be no more than the battery not being fully charged followed by too many start/stops and short journeys when you let your mates on it...

If they all did enough miles to keep it charged or it it recurs after a charge then will need to investigate further - connectors working lose, poor earth at battery, dud battery ...

Of course if the battery power is'nt too low then you need the real troubleshooters to help... and there are plenty on this forum who have experience of every sort of problem or are real mechanics (unlike me)

Art
Breva1100
 
Only other cases I've heard of with this issue and its been a corrupt ECU. That doesn't mean that is what it is, simply that that is the total sum of my knowledge.

Pete
 
Your user code is only important when fiddling with spare keys and key codes.
When you have put in the code, you get rid of the boring message "put in your..."

About your main question, I think you must use your warranty and get help (if it's not bad voltage or a lose battery cable).
 
I had a similar problem the other day when bike would not start after sitting for 3 weeks. It had some error message however I cant recall exactly what it was. I disconnected the + terminal on the battery because I noticed some corrosion. Main problem is the top of the + battery terminal is not flat and can only make minimal contact with the lead connection which is flat. I just filed the + terminal flat on the top, cleaned up the green corrosion crap and put it back together. Started perfect ever since.

In my case its a standard bad connection / flat battery issue however a error code confuses things for us mere mortals. Worth a try for your bike I think.
 
Thanks all for your input.

I just checked battery with Fluke meter. 13.03V.

When alternator issues were happening, the bike would start and run fine with as little as 11.3V on the dash voltmeter.

While riding I would use mode switch to look at voltmeter, always shows 14.3-14.5V.

I looked through the "black book/owners manual", it shows a 3Afuse in the fuseblock in the right front bodywork. Page167, fuse "F" on figure 04_22 "permanent power supply, electronic central unit power 3A" Could this be power to ECU? 3A seems low for all the "work" ECU has to perform. I did not get into checking that fuse yet. It is a struggle to get into the fuse box due to carbon canister tubing. I will have at it this morning.

The bike is still under warranty, I should limit my exploration.

Thanks again for all the interest. This bike is an absolute hoot to ride, I look forward to the day when my only worries are what any rider faces when on the road.

Craig
 
For grins, I hooked up the battery tender. After about 20 min. the LED indicated fully charged.

I wrestled the cover off the secondary fuseblock. The 3A fuse is OK. I gave all the fuses a wiggle for good measure. The same routine when I try to start.

Off this subject, I purchased NAPA AR606 relay for fog lights. NAPA guy sez this is a higher quality relay than the AR606SB I have seen on the fog light string. It cost more, around $9.00. Who knows for sure. It was in stock and it fits. I purchased Denali LED lamps from twisted throttle instead of factory lights or PIAA 1100's. Denali lights are wicked bright, small in size, give 900 lumins and require .75A each. I have not installed them yet. I will report after I get my machine going again.

Regards,

Craig
 
Art from Europa Macchina collected the bike today. He said he will check it with the dealership diagnostic tool.

Dealer contacted me within the first hour of their business day. Mechanic collected the bike around noon.

Craig
 
Things are sorted at last. Dealer ordered and install new ECU. Still no start. Turns out that pins in the connector for the Guzzi option alarm were damaged on assy. Techs at dealer made a repair to get me on the road. New harness will be installed at first major service.

450 miles now. MPG display sez 49 mpg. I am riding oneup, no bags. Mostly country roads, easy riding (did I just say that?) with a few hard launches and runs through the gears. Everybody I put on this bike comes back with a huge grin.

I have the Twisted Throttle Denali LED lamps mounted. I used the Guzzi factory fog lamp mount. Not cheap, but is a quality part that fits well. I have not checked the Lamps out in the dark yet. They have a bright daytime signature to oncoming traffic w/o being harsh.

Thanks all, for your suggestions and interest with my situation. I am back on the road and loving it!

Regards,

Craig
 
regularguy said:
Things are sorted at last. Dealer ordered and install new ECU. Still no start. Turns out that pins in the connector for the Guzzi option alarm were damaged on assy. Techs at dealer made a repair to get me on the road. New harness will be installed at first major service.

450 miles now. MPG display sez 49 mpg. I am riding oneup, no bags. Mostly country roads, easy riding (did I just say that?) with a few hard launches and runs through the gears. Everybody I put on this bike comes back with a huge grin.

I have the Twisted Throttle Denali LED lamps mounted. I used the Guzzi factory fog lamp mount. Not cheap, but is a quality part that fits well. I have not checked the Lamps out in the dark yet. They have a bright daytime signature to oncoming traffic w/o being harsh.

Thanks all, for your suggestions and interest with my situation. I am back on the road and loving it!

Regards,

Craig

Great news that you are rolling again Craig.. sounds like a tricky one for the dealer to diagnose and they got there in the end.

The Denali LED lamps look interesting from their ad on Youtube, worth a new thread or attaching to an old thread about additional lighting. Night photos on a unlit road would be great.

Art
Breva 1100
 
Craig, my pleasure on the muffler and thanks for you're continuing posts here regarding the ECU. This is just the type of thing that is good to know about for all others. Enjoy the Stelvio, and post often.
 
The story continues...

Bike goes in for 1st service. Dealer sez they will also install new main wire harness under warranty. I go to pick up the bike, no start. (Techs rode bike 25 miles, started the bike at least 10 times to be sure all was OK before I was called to get the bike.)

Art takes bodywork off right side to expose relay/fuse block. We see shredded wire under the connector body at one of the start relay pins. I leave w/o my bike. Art then finds other pins not seated in the connector body. There are other issues with other connectors in the harness as well. More repairs on "new" wire harness.

Art delivered the bike this afternoon.

In addition, some wires in both harnesses do not match published wire diagram. Be sure when troubleshooting or modifying to verify function, color, termination and proper seating of pins in connector body.

I have to hand it to the folks at Europa Macchina. They have managed to repair every ####up Piaggio/Motoguzzi have handed them. I have no connection with them other than my bike purchase. If you are near southcentral PA, look them up. Thanks all.

Craig
 
Stelvio with Denali driving lights

regularguy said:
I have the Twisted Throttle Denali LED lamps mounted. I used the Guzzi factory fog lamp mount. Not cheap, but is a quality part that fits well. I have not checked the Lamps out in the dark yet. They have a bright daytime signature to oncoming traffic w/o being harsh.

You tease us with a description but don't add any accompanying pics! Please post some pictures if you have the time. I'm sure many on this forum would be interesting in seeing them.

coldcanuck
 
Maybe inline with this topic.
Literally loading my 09 Stelvio on the trailer towing up to Asheville to ride for a week around Nanatahala, Hot Springs and Roan Mtn. Turn the key and see red triangle and ECU alert on dashboard. Bike was fine 10 mins before so jumped on the forums and determined might be a loose wire or similar.

With the key on, turned the handlebars from left to right, no change, wiggled the right coil lead, then wiggled the left coil lead and ah ha, hear an electric switching noise, alerts go out, everything fine (but of course everything is not fine).

After more testing, find it is not the coil lead that is the issue but a wire collector harness (I do not know what else to call it) but with the key on and I move this harness, see pic, then I hear the same noise as when you initially turn the key on, the tach needle swinging up and all lights come on. In this event though the key is already on? Now the alert does not come on but the short is most definitely associated with this bung of wires.

There is a collection of 20+ wires here so not sure where to start in determining the which wire(s) are involved or even what this termination of so many wires is for. Any thoughts on the topic would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks. Robert M.

https://c6.staticflickr.com/9/8204/28517614613_5bec28e6b8_h.jpg
 
Maybe inline with this topic.
Literally loading my 09 Stelvio on the trailer towing up to Asheville to ride for a week around Nanatahala, Hot Springs and Roan Mtn. Turn the key and see red triangle and ECU alert on dashboard. Bike was fine 10 mins before so jumped on the forums and determined might be a loose wire or similar.

With the key on, turned the handlebars from left to right, no change, wiggled the right coil lead, then wiggled the left coil lead and ah ha, hear an electric switching noise, alerts go out, everything fine (but of course everything is not fine).

After more testing, find it is not the coil lead that is the issue but a wire collector harness (I do not know what else to call it) but with the key on and I move this harness, see pic, then I hear the same noise as when you initially turn the key on, the tach needle swinging up and all lights come on. In this event though the key is already on? Now the alert does not come on but the short is most definitely associated with this bung of wires.

There is a collection of 20+ wires here so not sure where to start in determining the which wire(s) are involved or even what this termination of so many wires is for. Any thoughts on the topic would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks. Robert M.

https://c6.staticflickr.com/9/8204/28517614613_5bec28e6b8_h.jpg


Most likely an open not a short. First step, get some contact cleaner. Disconnect the plug and spray the contacts. Most electrical problems can be solved by cleaning connectors. I see quite a bit of corrosion around the harness so be generous with the cleaner there as well, and use a soft brush in there if you can.
 
You can buy electric contact cleaner but wd40 will work in a pinch. I don't think wetness is an issue When you pull apart the connector just look for corrosion. If it looks fine and clean then this is not your issue.

When you have the service error on the dash, what is the actual error in the diagnostics. That is where you need to start. It may tell you where to look next in that harness.

Look for any obvious wear spots in the harness. That is were your issue will be. Wires rarely if ever will just break in a harness. Going to take some homework to track this one down.
 
However, is not a service light error, is only red triangle ECU and then an unplugged digital image. Hope the cleaner does the job :)
 
Back
Top