• Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
  • There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.
  • Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
  • Like the new V100, GuzziTech is full throttle into the future! We're now running on an all-new server and we've updated our Forum software. The visual differences are obvious, but hopefully you'll notice the super-fast speed. If you notice any glitches or have any issues, please post on the Site Support section at the bottom. If you haven't yet, please upgrade your account which is covered in the Site Support section or via the DONATE tab above, which gives you full site access including the DOWNLOADS section. We really appreciate every $ and your support to keep this site ad-free. Create an account, sign in, upgrade your account, and enjoy. See you on the road in 2024.

Fork height.

Marco Bellimbusto

Just got it firing!
Joined
Oct 6, 2016
Messages
3
Location
London UK
Hi new here, as well as a new Stelvio owner. I find the bike rather heavy to lift onto the centre stand, and knowing that the previous owner was vertically challenged, I wonder if he might have lowered the bike by letting the fork legs up into the yokes a little. Is it standard for them to protrude an inch or so above the top yoke?
 
No, the measurement can be found here in this section. They may also have changed the shock linkage and/or fitted a shorter shock.
 
Hi new here, as well as a new Stelvio owner. I find the bike rather heavy to lift onto the centre stand, and knowing that the previous owner was vertically challenged, I wonder if he might have lowered the bike by letting the fork legs up into the yokes a little. Is it standard for them to protrude an inch or so above the top yoke?

I bought and installed a Guzzitech shock 1" shorter than stock. To keep the steering geometry "close", I also slid the fork tubes 1" up into the clamps. This lowered the bike about 1" overall and made it possible to still reach the ground even with my Russell Day-Long seat (I'm 6'2", 32" inseam and the ground was a LONG reach with the stock suspension). Handling is excellent.

The sidestand still works just fine; matter of fact, it holds the bike at a better angle now than before. However, as you note, the centerstand is now difficult to use. Since my shop has done the "Centerstand Recall" to strengthen the centerstand, I'm reluctant to go cutting on it to shorten it.

I'm leaving the centerstand "as is". I very seldom use the centerstand - never on the road, unless I have a flat tire (fingers crossed, not yet), and sometimes in the shop when I'm changing tires or changing oil. So I keep two little pieces of 1" x 4" board, one 6" long and one 8" long in the bottom of the saddlebag. If I need to put the bike on the stand (so far, always in the shop), I stack the two pieces of wood just behind the wheel, staggered a bit so they form a little "ramp". I then roll the bike backwards so the back wheel is on top of the two.

At that point, the effort to put the bike on the stand is minimal. AND the tire is WAY off the ground, so that if I'm taking the wheel out, it just drops down and rolls straight out the back!

It's easy enough and hassle-free enough so that I don't plan on designing a mod to the stand ....

Lannis
 
Yes it is normal for them to extend past the top of the yoke. Stock position is 16mm above the triple clamp at the 12:00 position on the fork tube.
 
All I know is that when I bought mine, the forks were even with the triple clamp & did not protrude above it. I installed a Grisso rear shock & ended up raising the forks 7mm. May not seem like much but made a difference with the shorter shock when getting the bike up on the center stand. I now have to remove the luggage to get it up on the center stand, & ended up having to shorten the side stand.
 
Thanks for the input gentlemen. I've been referred to the manual on another forum, and indeed the photos of the fork tops show them and just a touch above the top yoke. Dropped my forks down to the level shown and can now cancel my gym membership as the bike rolls nicely onto the centre stand.
 
Back
Top