• Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
  • There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.
  • Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
  • Like the new V100, GuzziTech is full throttle into the future! We're now running on an all-new server and we've updated our Forum software. The visual differences are obvious, but hopefully you'll notice the super-fast speed. If you notice any glitches or have any issues, please post on the Site Support section at the bottom. If you haven't yet, please upgrade your account which is covered in the Site Support section or via the DONATE tab above, which gives you full site access including the DOWNLOADS section. We really appreciate every $ and your support to keep this site ad-free. Create an account, sign in, upgrade your account, and enjoy. See you on the road in 2024.

California 1400 hanging throttle

Come back to let everyone know if a new clutch switch helped your particular problem.
Wanted to get back to all, unfortunately I don't know the answer. I found I still have a few months on my warranty and took the bike to dealer to have a look, he said clutch switch is good, no codes, clean bill of health. This condition on my bike usually only appears after a long, hot, ride & would be hard to duplicate. I talked to Todd, he did a few remote adjustments to the maps. ( read in mileage thread). I rode the bike from San Diego to Ocotillo & back and hanging throttle did not reoccur. I don't know the solution, but running hot seemed to be what made it happen for me.
 
Hello. I have no idea of electronics but I wonder if this device could help with the problem:
http://memjet.hu/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=65&Itemid=63
I live in Madrid and I always have the issue when the engine is hot. It is very embarrassing and when it happens in neutral I panic to clutch first gear and break my gear box. I can´t believe how Moto Guzzi does not recall all the motorcycles with the problem. I think it is related with the air temperature. This device modifies the value of temperature in the ECU.
Thank you for hearing my not specialiced opinion.
 
Hello. I have no idea of electronics but I wonder if this device could help with the problem:
http://memjet.hu/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=65&Itemid=63
I live in Madrid and I always have the issue when the engine is hot. It is very embarrassing and when it happens in neutral I panic to clutch first gear and break my gear box. I can´t believe how Moto Guzzi does not recall all the motorcycles with the problem. I think it is related with the air temperature. This device modifies the value of temperature in the ECU.
Thank you for hearing my not specialiced opinion.

Great thought! Fueling is a fascinating subject, especially for our air-cooled V-twins. The Memjet doesn't quite modify the value of the temperature in the ECU; what it tries to do is manipulate the O2 signal in such a way that the engine will run richer(which cools the engine with the extra fuel in the engine). The best and brightest around this forum have written extensive threads on it and the consensus is more or less that, while the Memjet (and other things like it) are well-intentioned, they are barely helpful. The problem is much bigger than the Memjet is able to fix. It would be like having a 8-inch gash and only putting one stich/suture on it. What takes the same idea and executes it flawlessly and thoroughly is the GT-Rx Flash combined with the Auto-tuning Power Commander V. (https://www.guzzitech.com/store/product/gt-rx-pc-v-at300-ecu-flash-tool/). Not only are there proven, measurable performance gains but also measurable engine temp differences (the exhaust heads cool down by about 40F with this system). I've put it on 2 Guzzis so far (2010 Grivo 8V and a 2014 Cali14) and it is impressive to the utmost. Not only do the engines pull significantly harder, but the throttle is SO MUCH smoother especially in the lower rev range. I live in a Central California town where our summers are regularly in the 90-110F in the daytime and when I made the switch from a Memjet to the Guzzitech system I could tell a big difference in the heat coming off the engine while I was riding around. It may seem "expensive" compared to a Memjet, but when you understand just how little a Memjet does and then consider how much the GT-Rx system does (smoother throttle, more power, lower temperature, less stress on the engine, etc.) it an easy price to pay IMO. Enough so that I budget the system into the price of whatever new bike I'm looking at before I buy it. With the problems you are talking about having, I'd HIGHLY recommend getting this system. You won't regret it; I know I haven't.

~Zack
 
Great thought! Fueling is a fascinating subject, especially for our air-cooled V-twins. The Memjet doesn't quite modify the value of the temperature in the ECU; what it tries to do is manipulate the O2 signal in such a way that the engine will run richer(which cools the engine with the extra fuel in the engine). The best and brightest around this forum have written extensive threads on it and the consensus is more or less that, while the Memjet (and other things like it) are well-intentioned, they are barely helpful. The problem is much bigger than the Memjet is able to fix. It would be like having a 8-inch gash and only putting one stich/suture on it. What takes the same idea and executes it flawlessly and thoroughly is the GT-Rx Flash combined with the Auto-tuning Power Commander V. (https://www.guzzitech.com/store/product/gt-rx-pc-v-at300-ecu-flash-tool/). Not only are there proven, measurable performance gains but also measurable engine temp differences (the exhaust heads cool down by about 40F with this system). I've put it on 2 Guzzis so far (2010 Grivo 8V and a 2014 Cali14) and it is impressive to the utmost. Not only do the engines pull significantly harder, but the throttle is SO MUCH smoother especially in the lower rev range. I live in a Central California town where our summers are regularly in the 90-110F in the daytime and when I made the switch from a Memjet to the Guzzitech system I could tell a big difference in the heat coming off the engine while I was riding around. It may seem "expensive" compared to a Memjet, but when you understand just how little a Memjet does and then consider how much the GT-Rx system does (smoother throttle, more power, lower temperature, less stress on the engine, etc.) it an easy price to pay IMO. Enough so that I budget the system into the price of whatever new bike I'm looking at before I buy it. With the problems you are talking about having, I'd HIGHLY recommend getting this system. You won't regret it; I know I haven't.

~Zack
Very helpfull. Thanks a lot.
 
I just bought a '14 Touring that has 5500 miles and has the hanging throttle problem. Is the consensus now that it is caused by the clutch switch?
 
I just bought a '14 Touring that has 5500 miles and has the hanging throttle problem. Is the consensus now that it is caused by the clutch switch?

It was on mine. I suspect it will go again at some point but it is easy to replace and not overly expensive.
 
The bike does not start in gear with the clutch pulled in, so I presume the switch is bad. I've swapped the simple ones before. Where is the wiring harness connection on this one and how hard is it to get to?
 
The bike does not start in gear with the clutch pulled in, so I presume the switch is bad. I've swapped the simple ones before. Where is the wiring harness connection on this one and how hard is it to get to?

I replaced mine and don't remember exactly where the cable plugs into the bike wiring harness. But, I don't remember it being anything difficult. Just look at your existing switch and follow the cable from the switch, down the handlebar. I think you should be able to find the plug pretty easily.
 
On a related note, after doing a bit more riding (pre-repair still), I've noticed the throttle can hang on decel under engine braking without ever touching the clutch. I'll roll off the throttle to jake-brake it down to a stop and the idle will catch at about 2700 RPM and coast there, leading to some panic braking to get it to stop. This is particularly bad while decelerating through a corner, only to have it launch forward in the middle. I'm used to riding the older one with consistently HUGE engine braking.

Has anybody seen THAT behaviour?
 
On a related note, after doing a bit more riding (pre-repair still), I've noticed the throttle can hang on decel under engine braking without ever touching the clutch. I'll roll off the throttle to jake-brake it down to a stop and the idle will catch at about 2700 RPM and coast there, leading to some panic braking to get it to stop. This is particularly bad while decelerating through a corner, only to have it launch forward in the middle. I'm used to riding the older one with consistently HUGE engine braking.

Has anybody seen THAT behaviour?

I would say that kind of behavior was happening to my bike. No clutch needed, simply releasing the throttle while in 2nd gear with RPMs over 3000 would make the bike artificially keep the RPMs at around 2500 even though there's no throttle input.

My problems got resolved not by replacing the clutch switch but by doing the "moaning whale" mod (look it up on this forum) and by cleaning the air filter box (not just the filter but the box itself) and the throttle body air intake valve (it's right behind the air box).
 
I would say that kind of behavior was happening to my bike. No clutch needed, simply releasing the throttle while in 2nd gear with RPMs over 3000 would make the bike artificially keep the RPMs at around 2500 even though there's no throttle input.

My problems got resolved not by replacing the clutch switch but by doing the "moaning whale" mod (look it up on this forum) and by cleaning the air filter box (not just the filter but the box itself) and the throttle body air intake valve (it's right behind the air box).

Good information. Thanks!
 
I'm sure the OP has done due diligence and ruled this out, BUT... I've been experimenting with different wind screens on my 2014 Custom recently. Twice I've had engine race issues that were due to slight (and I *mean* slight) cable routing issues when near a full lock turn. The RBW throttle effort is so small on these bikes, just a slight pull on the cables was causing the race condition (I couldn't feel any resistance in the handlebars)... FWIW.....
 
On a related note, after doing a bit more riding (pre-repair still), I've noticed the throttle can hang on decel under engine braking without ever touching the clutch. I'll roll off the throttle to jake-brake it down to a stop and the idle will catch at about 2700 RPM and coast there, leading to some panic braking to get it to stop. This is particularly bad while decelerating through a corner, only to have it launch forward in the middle. I'm used to riding the older one with consistently HUGE engine braking.

Has anybody seen THAT behaviour?

Normal. Supposedly helps both emissions output (unburned hydrocarbons) and gearbox/driveline wear. Say good bye to those lovely sounds soon...
 
Normal. Supposedly helps both emissions output (unburned hydrocarbons) and gearbox/driveline wear. Say good bye to those lovely sounds soon...

Might be normal, but hardly desirable. I've put a pneumatic switch on the stepper motor hose on my 1200 Sports to regain the engine braking, but unfortunately the Cali 1400 doesn't have a stepper motor.

However, I've found the GT-Rx fuel kit removes this behaviour, and gives a wonderful amount of engine braking. Worth it for this reason alone.
 
Just back from service. I haven't ridden it exhaustively yet but it seems a lot better. The valves were very loose and the mechanic says (according to Guzzi) this causes the ECU to try and adapt (badly).

No feeling if replacing the clutch switch did anything.
 
Just back from service. I haven't ridden it exhaustively yet but it seems a lot better. The valves were very loose and the mechanic says (according to Guzzi) this causes the ECU to try and adapt (badly).

No feeling if replacing the clutch switch did anything.
Thanks for sharing and please keep us updated in the longer term.
 
Back
Top