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Monoshock removal

Having a heck of a time getting my shock out of 1200S. I've had this out a few times, it's always a headache but this time seems the worst.

It's the top bolt that gets me, it's not a straight shot to the bolt through the frame so I have to use a wobble or universal on the end of an extension. It is a 13mm socket for the bolt, correct?

I think I'm going to shop for a 1/4" drive universal tomorrow, maybe the smaller stuff will give me some more space.

Any suggestions welcome.
 
Having a heck of a time getting my shock out of 1200S. I've had this out a few times, it's always a headache but this time seems the worst.

It's the top bolt that gets me, it's not a straight shot to the bolt through the frame so I have to use a wobble or universal on the end of an extension. It is a 13mm socket for the bolt, correct?

I think I'm going to shop for a 1/4" drive universal tomorrow, maybe the smaller stuff will give me some more space.

Any suggestions welcome.
I can't get it loose either, as you said, not a direct line, using a wobble adapter just causes the socket to slip off. Any hints?
 
Bruce, per my direct email, a long wobble and shallow 13mm socket is what I always use, and never had a problem to date (knock wood). Do not use a 1/4" drive, that will snap off or bend.
 
Try not using a universal or wobble adapter just an extension and a 6 point NOT 12 point socket.

Then have your brace or ratchet at 4 o,clock, hold some weight in on socket and pull up so the extension stays hard against the frame.

Works for me.
 
+1 on a straight extension. Just did this a few weeks ago installing a Mupo shock from Todd on my 1200... It very much was a straight shot to the bolt on my bike... Getting the shock out and the new one in is another matter but also quite easy if you have a separate jack under the CARC to raise or lower the swingarm during the process as needed, and have the lower linkage out of the way entirely.
 
My problem ended up being a bent top shock mount bolt. Last year I hit a massive pothole, bent the wheel and was basically a bit pain.
I believe that this bottomed out the suspension hard enough that the top mounting bolt stretched and bent. It was quite the sight to see.
I ended up removing all the plastic on the back half of the bike to include the inner fender/battery tray. This allowed me to get a socket directly on the bolt head without the use of any extensions and I was able to turn the bolt out. I ordered a new bolt, put it all back together and I'm back on the road.
 
Try not using a universal or wobble adapter just an extension and a 6 point NOT 12 point socket.

Then have your brace or ratchet at 4 o,clock, hold some weight in on socket and pull up so the extension stays hard against the frame.

Works for me.
Bruce, per my direct email, a long wobble and shallow 13mm socket is what I always use, and never had a problem to date (knock wood). Do not use a 1/4" drive, that will snap off or bend.
Wobble extension along with a 6 pt socket did the trick. Finished the install, went for a ride, happiness! All in, GT-Rx ECU re-flash, PC/AT fueling upgrade, and the Matris front/rear suspension upgrade, has transformed my Norge, love it. Thanks Todd.
 
6. Re-installation is of course opposite of above. Move the wheel/swing-arm to allow ease of bolt installation. You should not have to beat anything back in, when aligned by moving the swing-arm/wheel, everything will slide in by fingers only. Also, now would be a good time to grease the bearings including the swing arm bearings. They are notoriously lacking in grease from the factory.

I know this is an old thread... But I plan on doing it this weekend. What do I need to do to also grease the swing arm bearings on my Breva 1100? And what type of grease is recommended? Also do you spray clean the bearings 1st with a solvent like brakleen, then regrease?

Thx
Mark
 
What do I need to do to also grease the swing arm bearings on my Breva 1100? And what type of grease is recommended? Also do you spray clean the bearings 1st with a solvent like brakleen, then regrease?
Most of that's covered in this post, but it's a low friction needle bearing set up, so a good water-proof grease. Most of the time you can just grease them without cleaning them, as it is a bit of a nightmare to put them back in. Slide the sleeve out halfway and grease, then repeat on the other side.
 
Mark, Also covered in the Stelvio section https://www.guzzitech.com/forums/threads/stelvio-swingarm-service.12240/ You do need a special socket to set the pre-load on the swing arm bearings. Those also are notoriously dry from the factory. The procedure is just about the same for all CARC bikes. On the Stelvio though you don't need to remove the "pork chops" that are on the Breva and Norge
 
Most of that's covered in this post, but it's a low friction needle bearing set up, so a good water-proof grease. Most of the time you can just grease them without cleaning them, as it is a bit of a nightmare to put them back in. Slide the sleeve out halfway and grease, then repeat on the other side.

Ok thx for the tip.
 
About to change the bottom triangle link on my 1200 Breva. It's a lowering link. So I don't have to touch the top of the shocker. Was just going to take the weight off the back wheel . ie raise center of bike , no center stand . Swap link . Job done, I hope
 
Just swapped out the rear shock on a Bellagio so I can speak with some authority.
Don't bother doing anything with the spring pre-load adjuster as the unit comes out upwards simply by removing the left passenger footpeg and flexing the plastic guard outwards so that it gives clearance.
Trying to remove the standard Sachs unit by twisting and dropping simply doesn't work as it catches on Tonti modified frame.
Here in Sydney Australia I went for an Ikon custom made unit that measured 310mm eye to eye but internally has 10mm longer stroke than standard.
So standard Bellagio ride height is maintained but it has more travel that's basically used up by sag.

Chris Wilson.
 
Just swapped out the rear shock on a Bellagio so I can speak with some authority.
Hi Chris, thanks for posting, but not really suited for this Breva/Norge/Sport thread. If you wanted to post pictures like I did at the top of this thread, I'd be happy to create an all new thread for it in the appropriate section. Bummer they never brought the Bellagio to North America, but then I'd have likely never built my custom frames... Which are incredible all the way around really.
Cheers/enjoy.
 
Thanks Todd, but please consider that this thread is a 'go to' tutorial for CARC bikes regardless of model and I have used it as such.
There is nothing available on the net that I know of that tells me how to remove the rear shock on the most obscure CARC model, the Bellagio, except for this.
The reply to me is simply a plus one for CARC bikes as it was a net search on that subject that brought me here in the first place.
Your call mate.
 
While replacing the mono shock in my 07 Norge, I replaced all the needle bearings and seals in the linkage. I attempted to find them locally and did find them. However, the bearings I found had cadged needles with less than half the needle count. this was determined unsatisfactory as the low needle count would not be a very snug fit and less contact area would risk unwanted failure due to shock loads applied to the spacers. The seals however were superior double lip and would not allow contaminants into the bearings. I took things further and installed buna thin cross section o-rings that fit snugly into the space between the seal and linkage creating an even better seal with the added bonus of keeping everything centered within the linkage. then i took the advantage of past experience and drilled holes in the tri link and fitted flush mount zercs. This allows the addition of grease using a needle attachment designed for use on flush mount zercs without taking apart the linkage. the thing i was slightly perplexed about was the cost of the spacers. That is until i looked closely and discovered that the spacers are hard chrome plated like a hydraulic cylinder. Technically, you could send them out for re-chrome, but that will probably cost more than buying them. except I believe they are discontinued from the factory? Lastly, I would like to ask if anyone has ever tried using an alternative to the needle bearing? Such as Bronze, Teflon lined steel, oil impregnated brass, Oilite or Delrin? How about that stuff the fork slider bushings are made of? There's got to be something better out there.
 
Because you want to. You're always going to ask the question 'to Guzzi or not to Guzzi' so not just because you want to, but because you need to.
I don't own a Norge, but my current Guzzi is a 2013 1200 Sport. Of the 4 Guzzis I've had (and I keep coming back to them) this is the nicest. I also think it's the nicest bike I've ever owned.
Quirky or not Guzzis are the only bikes that put 'that' smile on your dial while you're riding.
There's that little bit of humanity about them; we're all flawed in some small way and it's the living around those small flaws that makes true and lasting relationships.
They're also things of beauty. If I'm just doing a coffee run with my lady or a cross state tour, I'll always park it where I can look at it, if for no other reason than to enjoy the attention it gets from passer bys.
If you're happy doing your own wrenching you'll be happy owning the Norge. One thing though, if your combined weight is anything over whatever, you may want to upgrade the suspension.

Larry
rear shock replace is a must.here's a gtm m shock. quite the bargain too

IMG 4407
 
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