• Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
  • There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.
  • Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
  • Like the new V100, GuzziTech is full throttle into the future! We're now running on an all-new server and we've updated our Forum software. The visual differences are obvious, but hopefully you'll notice the super-fast speed. If you notice any glitches or have any issues, please post on the Site Support section at the bottom. If you haven't yet, please upgrade your account which is covered in the Site Support section or via the DONATE tab above, which gives you full site access including the DOWNLOADS section. We really appreciate every $ and your support to keep this site ad-free. Create an account, sign in, upgrade your account, and enjoy. See you on the road in 2024.

Front brake disks

Rosscoe674

Rosscoe674

Just got it firing!
Joined
Dec 31, 2015
Messages
12
Location
Encounter Bay, SA, Australia
It appears that I have a warped front Right Hand brake disk on my 10,000klm old 1400T. I have lifted the calipers from the disk one at a time and with the RH one lifted there is no wobbles when under brakes. I have checked for galling and put some washers under the caliper bolts to move them up the disk, all to no avail. I am not interested in warranty, why would I put something back on that is prone to warping. So my question is has anyone put other / better either Brembo or other brand disks on and if so which ones.
 
roadventure said:
What do you mean by "buttons"? I have not heard this term related to brake rotors or calipers.
Click to expand...
Buttons/bobbins are the round items that hold the outer friction disk to the inner carrier. Search cleaning the buttons or bobbins on this Forum. Also, on occasion over the years, disks can become damaged if anyone using a bike lift allows the rotors to contact the wheel vise when rolling the bike on. This has been going on for 25+ years on bikes with larger front disks.
 
A simple way to tell if a brake disc is warped is to either measure the difference as it is rotated (runout) or even use a fixed pointer like a zip tie to show that the disc does not run true. If it does not run true you need to determine if it is from the bobbins that locate the outer part of the disc to the inner caliper, they sometimes bind and don't allow the outer part of the disc to freely float. A truely warped disc is possible but very rare. More often it is either the bobbins sticking or uneven pad deposits on the disc causing a pulsing in the braking. If the disc does not run true it may be that it has been damaged (bent), or in rare cases it may have warped.
I don't know about the New Cali, but Guzzi have had issues in the past with the brake disc bobbins getting dirty and sticking, causing the brakes to pulse like the disc is warped.
I have actually had a disc glow red and once cooled it was not warped. It was blue, but not warped.
 
GT-Rx® said:
Buttons/bobbins are the round items that hold the outer friction disk to the inner carrier. Search cleaning the buttons or bobbins on this Forum. Also, on occasion over the years, disks can become damaged if anyone using a bike lift allows the rotors to contact the wheel vise when rolling the bike on. This has been going on for 25+ years on bikes with larger front disks.
Click to expand...

Oh, okay! I have never had an issue on my other bikes with floating rotors where the "buttons" were not free and permitting the rotor to move.

If that is an issue with Brembo then I guess I am now aware and will look for that as a potential source of trouble if I ever experience it.
 
My opinion.....
It has to do with the Brembo discs being full floaters, while most others, especially the Japanese brands, are very limited in their floating. It is a case of having to take the bad with the good, the more the discs float the better, but also the more potential for things to go wrong if they get overly dirty and no longer freely float.
 
Update:
Yesterday I got some brake cleaner and did all the bobins on both sides. I made sure that they all turned freely. Result from a 250klm ride today - no change, still pulsing / vibrating under front brakes. You don't notice it much at low speed say less than 50klm but braking from 80klm to 100klm the front end vibrates / pulses. Could it be something to do with the ABS? Tomorrow I will lift the calipers again and go for a ride just to prove that with the RH caliper off the left one provides a smooth stop.
 
Rosscoe674 said:
Update:
Yesterday I got some brake cleaner and did all the bobins on both sides. I made sure that they all turned freely. Result from a 250klm ride today - no change, still pulsing / vibrating under front brakes. You don't notice it much at low speed say less than 50klm but braking from 80klm to 100klm the front end vibrates / pulses. Could it be something to do with the ABS? Tomorrow I will lift the calipers again and go for a ride just to prove that with the RH caliper off the left one provides a smooth stop.
Click to expand...

At this point, replace the rotor. The ABS system has nothing to do with it.
 
Before you go to the expense of replacement disc, check the runout with a dial gauge, and compare with your left one.

Are your steering head bearings tightened to spec?
 
My 1400 warped both disks. Checked with a dial indicator, called the dealer, he checked them, Guzzi bought new ones. My 2007 Norge warped them also under warranty but so far (knock wood) the 2012 has been ok.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top