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Carc / Final drive oil change capacity?

E

EncoreJoe

Just got it firing!
Joined
Sep 14, 2016
Messages
13
Location
Texas
Hello folks.

I'm in the process of changing all fluids on my 2012 Stelvio NTX. Tonight I removed fill plug and drain plug of the Carc / final drive and drained it.

I read in online service manual that capacity is 380 CC.

Using a very small funnel to fit and pouring in very slowly so as not to fill the funnel opening I got 280 CC in and the oil level is to bottom of fill plug threads.

The bike is on the center stand and rotating the wheel doesn't change level. I'm using the specified 80w90 gear oil. The bike is new to me since September and has 5,100 miles. (I put on 4,300 on since buying it)

Is this the right level or did I miss something?

Thank you.

Joe
 
Take it off the center stand so the fill hole is higher. If you don't have a front wheel chock, you may need someone to hold it upright. BTW, the 380 spec is probably for a new or cleaned CARC, on a refill it will take a little less, but you should be able to get in more than the 280cc.
 
You fill the carc with the bike level on both wheels to the bottom of the threads as per the manual. , not on the center stand You still will not get 380 ml, but you will fill it to the needed capacity which is close to 380 depending on how much you got out.

I put it on the side stand and then put a 2x4 under the side stand foot. That is close enough to level. With the bike on the center stand, the rear wheel is lowered and the amount to fill it is less due to the angle. Same goes for when you check the level. Do not do it on the center stand or it will spill out when you take the fill plug out. If it didnt do that when you opened it the first time then someone did not fill it properly...including the factory.
 
canuck1969 said:
You fill the carc with the bike level on both wheels to the bottom of the threads as per the manual. , not on the center stand You still will not get 380 ml, but you will fill it to the needed capacity which is close to 380 depending on how much you got out.

I put it on the side stand and then put a 2x4 under the side stand foot. That is close enough to level. With the bike on the center stand, the rear wheel is lowered and the amount to fill it is less due to the angle. Same goes for when you check the level. Do not do it on the center stand or it will spill out when you take the fill plug out. If it didnt do that when you opened it the first time then someone did not fill it properly...including the factory.
Click to expand...

With the side stand on a 2x4 and piece of 3/4 " plywood it is almost too vertical for comfort. I dribbled in more oil until it reached the bottom of the threads. It did not spill out when I removed the fill plug and I assume it was original factory fill.

I'm calling this good to go now and will change the transmission tomorrow night.

Thanks canuck1969 and John. I appreciate it!

Joe
 
Is there any reason you can't keep the bike on the center stand but put a chock under the front wheel so the bike sits level? I appreciate you'll get a bit of a difference because the rear suspension is not compressed but if this is a major problem maybe measure the angle of the swinging arm when the bike is held upright, then duplicate this with a suitable thickness spacer under the front wheel. No problems with stability. Or am I being particularly dumb tonight?
 
I doubt whether 10 ml either way on the oil content will actually make any difference. I have only ever filled it on the centre stand to half way up the level plug threads. Never had a problem.

Did have to get the big CARC bearing replaced under warranty, when I got the bike home afterwards, I though I would just check. I had to put another 200 ml in there to get up to the level.
 
Paul_Tim said:
Is there any reason you can't keep the bike on the center stand but put a chock under the front wheel so the bike sits level? I appreciate you'll get a bit of a difference because the rear suspension is not compressed but if this is a major problem maybe measure the angle of the swinging arm when the bike is held upright, then duplicate this with a suitable thickness spacer under the front wheel. No problems with stability. Or am I being particularly dumb tonight?
Click to expand...


You need the weight of the bike on the rear wheel so the swing arm is not extended and the shock is compressed a bit.
 
Paul_Tim said:
Is there any reason you can't keep the bike on the center stand but put a chock under the front wheel so the bike sits level? I appreciate you'll get a bit of a difference because the rear suspension is not compressed but if this is a major problem maybe measure the angle of the swinging arm when the bike is held upright, then duplicate this with a suitable thickness spacer under the front wheel. No problems with stability. Or am I being particularly dumb tonight?
Click to expand...

Too complicated for me. If you really want to do it on the side stand or center stand, figure out how many mils it takes to fill it properly, and then the next time just fill it through the breather hole. Only thing is you need to let it completely drain for a bit so you get all the old oil out first. Not my go to method, but for the most part will work.

All that being said, not hard to do it properly. It does not need to be 100% vertical. You can leave it slightly leaned on the side stand if you want if you are worried about it tipping over.
 
Some time ago, I overfilled mine by trying to meter inn the 380 cc. The book wasn't quite clear, so I brought it close to the top of the filler hole. After a while it started showing up around my rear wheel. After draining it and cleaning off the area around the main seal, I metered in 350 cc then slowly topped it up with a small syringe to the bottom of the threaded part. Certainly less than 380 cc. No more issues.
 
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