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Need advise on removing plug caps

groundhog105

Cruisin' Guzzisti
GT Contributor
Joined
Dec 29, 2008
Messages
291
I'm getting ready to do a valve check and having trouble getting the rubber caps off. They seem to stretch a lot but won't pop off. I'm sure someone has a trick to this I don't want to tear them.
 
Needle nose pliers around the sides of the cap/wires. Wiggle while pulling gently. Will pop off if wiggling. Do not pull on the wire cable. When reinstalling, use plenty of the electric plug boot grease in the little packets from AutoZone. Good luck.

Dale
 
Do not pull on them at all, they are incredibly fragile. I use the valve cover to leverage them off. I also keep four (4) NGK SB05E boots on the shelf to replace them, as I consider the stock boots disposables once removed.
 
Do not pull on them at all, they are incredibly fragile. I use the valve cover to leverage them off. I also keep four (4) NGK SB05E boots on the shelf to replace them, as I consider the stock boots disposables once removed.


Todd, so you remove them with the valve cover and if they are damaged then you replace them with the Ngk boots? When I was in there last the right side was replaced with the NGK. They came off with no problem. Do you sell them on your site?
 
Do not pull on them at all, they are incredibly fragile. I use the valve cover to leverage them off. I also keep four (4) NGK SB05E boots on the shelf to replace them, as I consider the stock boots disposables once removed.
Do you know of any link explaining how to replace the boots? I found tutorials explaining how to cut the wire and screw in a new boot, but I'm having trouble visualizing how that applies to C1400 and the two rubber seals (one round one oval.)
 
Todd, so you remove them with the valve cover and if they are damaged then you replace them with the Ngk boots? When I was in there last the right side was replaced with the NGK. They came off with no problem. Do you sell them on your site?
Yes and I used to sell them, but for the few pennies I made on them, it's not worth people here sending people elsewhere online, like Amazon, etc.
Do you know of any link explaining how to replace the boots? I found tutorials explaining how to cut the wire and screw in a new boot, but I'm having trouble visualizing how that applies to C1400 and the two rubber seals (one round one oval.)
Snip and replace. You will lose the water-proof seal on each, but for decades previously, it's not really not needed. Just blow the holes out with compressed air before accessing the plugs.
 
Yes and I used to sell them, but for the few pennies I made on them, it's not worth people here sending people elsewhere online, like Amazon, etc.

Snip and replace. You will lose the water-proof seal on each, but for decades previously, it's not really not needed. Just blow the holes out with compressed air before accessing the plugs.
Thanks Tod!
 
Yes and I used to sell them, but for the few pennies I made on them, it's not worth people here sending people elsewhere online, like Amazon, etc.

Snip and replace. You will lose the water-proof seal on each, but for decades previously, it's not really not needed. Just blow the holes out with compressed air before accessing the plugs.

Thanks Todd
I got the replacement caps from amazon. Thanks for the help. I reattached the stock caps on the left side and it starts and seems to idle ok. What would be the symptoms to look for if the stock caps were failing.
 
Snip and replace. You will lose the water-proof seal on each, but for decades previously, it's not really not needed. Just blow the holes out with compressed air before accessing the plugs.

I replaced the boots successfully! Now I'm thinking of getting some of those beautiful red NGK cables too, because the original ones are a bit too short for these new boots.

Also, I'm not sure if I'm imagining stuff but before I did this there was a slightly noticeable loss in power right at the 4K RPMs mark during acceleration and now it seems to be gone. I want to think it has something to do with new boots cause I haven't touched anything else.
 
Maybe I'm not understanding you clearly here, but I've seen so many crazy ways of doing the simple. The injection molded plastic elbow of a spark plug is the strongest part. Use a zip tie to transfer all lifting force to that point. Here you go...

 
Maybe I'm not understanding you clearly here...

You are not understanding that the California 1400 has a different valve cover design and different spark plug boots. Check the parts drawings for the California 1400. I think you will see the difference between the California and the Stelvio design.

That said, the zip-tie method in your video would probably help many California owners in removing the sparkplug boots.
 
Use a zip tie to transfer all lifting force to that point.
Scott et al, this method will damage the plug boot as well... see pic below. That small hole was delivering an arc to the head and causing the bike to run on one cylinder.
As mentioned, the 1400 is even worse and more often brutally stubborn to get off.

8V PlugCap Hole
 
Scott et al, this method will damage the plug boot as well... see pic below. That small hole was delivering an arc to the head and causing the bike to run on one cylinder.
As mentioned, the 1400 is even worse and more often brutally stubborn to get off.

Got it! Thank you Todd for the education!

So, once again, I am reminded of why I will not plunk down my cash on any 1400 model. From all of the annoying issues I've read about, I am convinced that the engineering in that bike is just not up to par.
 
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So, once again, I am reminded of why I will not plunk down my cash on any 1400 model. From all of the annoying issues I've read about, I am convinced that the engineering in that bike is just not up to par.

I can't believe I am doing this.... (defending Moto Guzzi).

Scott,

I have owned my 2014 California Custom (dressed out as a "Touring" model) since October 2014. I bought it second-hand with about 3000 miles on the odometer. From what I have seen in that time Moto Guzzi did make some stupid design decisions:

  • the rear wheel must be removed to change rear drive oil
  • the airbox could have easily been designed to permit a simple top access for air filter changes
  • the exhaust crossover needs to be redesigned to replicate Todd's solution
  • the dipstick could be improved to make it easier to check oil level
  • many of the threaded fasteners seem to be very soft and prone to stripping the head when removing or tightening to the correct torque settings
Aside from those issues, I have been happy with the bike. It is simple to perform maintenance (except as noted). It performs well in both the handling and power departments. It has also shown me that it is dependable over the long-haul (last summer I was able to get an 8000+ mile ride over 18 days). I am still a little nervous about owning what I have come to learn is a "boutique brand" of motorcycle. But when I forget about that The California is simply a very enjoyable motorcycle.
 
I can't believe I am doing this.... (defending Moto Guzzi)...

Hi Dave,

I think you misunderstand. I currently own two Moto Guzzis, a 1997 V10 Centauro (my second one of this model, the first one brand new in 1998 and then this used one which I just obtained a few months ago), and a 2012 Stelvio NTX which I bought brand new, I have owned multiple Guzzi's in my lifetime and have continuously owned at least one model since the 80's. I am an aficionado of the marque, no doubt about it. In fact, I even own a Piaggio X9 500 Evolution maxi-scooter too!

That being said, PIaggio has in my opinion, taken the company to the "Form over Function" idea of "make it look pretty, regardless of what is sacrificed in the process", just like they did with modern Vespas, and I think it is a huge mistake. The 1400's seem to have been designed and rushed to market with virtually no input from the service/functionality side of the house and all of the little annoying issues are rearing their ugly heads right about now in the market life of the product.

In my lifetime, I have seen numerous ownership shifts in the history of Moto Guzzi, and each one somehow thinks they are going to "grow and expand" the brand, which I believe to be a huge mistake in logic and judgement. If you ever go to the factory, you understand this immediately. Since the inception of production there, virtually every motorcycle has been built in the same room. The factory is against a rock mountain and there is literally no place to expand to. Any owner who has even hinted at taking the factory to another town in Italy has met with absolute aggressive resistance from both the village of Mandello del Lario as well as the Italian Government. A large portion of the Mandello economy is predicated on this one factory of about 235 employees.

So, the reason Moto Guzzi is virtually a hand-builder (about 10,000 units per year) of a very limited number of motorcycles is because they have always been and will always be due to physical constraints of space at the factory. Understanding this immutable limitation, I feel the company should focus on being the best boutique builder of extremely well designed, durable, and functional machines, with a distinctive panache. The current Stelvio is just such a motorcycle. It is an incredible machine with amazing characteristics and features. Yes, it too has some annoying issues, (cam roller issues aside, which was a supplier quality issue fault) but they are easily remedied and pale in comparison to the 1400's in my estimation.

I would love an Eldorado, but not with plastic fenders that shake like a wet dog, and all of the other annoying user unfriendly problems.

It's curious, I was the Sales Manager for several years for BMW Motorcycles at Brattin Motors in San Diego, and I saw the same thing happen to BMW. BMW was once the penultimate choice of long-distance touring and riding. Nobody could hold a candle to the rugged reliability of the R80/R100 or the K75/K100/K1100 series platforms. (I personally owned a R100RT with over 300,000 miles on it! I would drive it everywhere and anywhere with total confidence.) It was also a distinctive trait of BMW, and Moto Guzzi owners, that a very high percentage of them wrenched their own bikes, at least in terms of direct maintenance. But then, BMW changed and they wanted to build cruisers (WTF) and now rockets and hypersports bikes and now you cannot buy a BMW that doesn't bleed you dry like a vampire, every time you are forced for routine maintenance or the never-ending Service Warning Light, to take it to the stupid service department staffed with mostly bozos who often times know very little about the unit they are working on, yet they gladly hand you a bill of $400 to $1000+ for maintenance!

Moto Guzzi has become the same and it is very sad to me.
 
Hi Dave,

I think you misunderstand.

Scott,

No, I am pretty sure I knew (and now know better) to whom I was responding. I have read many of your posts and it is clear that you have a great deal of experience with a variety of motorcycles. My background is probably not too different. However, the MG California 1400 is the first European motorcycle I have ever owned. To that end it was a risk to me in buying one. I am used to well thought out (though not perfect) ultra-reliable Japanese motorcycles. I don't have any first-hand experience with any other MG models but do not get the feeling that the current California design was rushed to market. I think it is a well thought out design for the American motorcycle buyer. In spite of some of the "bonehead" design choices ( I challenge you to find any motorcycle that does not possess at least one) it has won me over and I have grown quite fond of it.
 
I use purpose built cushioned sparkplug pliers which greatly assist in removing stubborn boots without damage. KD 135 or Lisle 52990 run around $10.

KD 135
KD Tools Spark Plug Terminal Pliers KDT135

Lisle 52990
Lisle 52990 Sparkplug Pliers
 
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I was able to remove and reinstall the stock plug wires without damaging them and rode 150 miles and didn't have any problems. I got lucky so next time I will use the new plug caps recommended by Todd.

On the issue of the 1400 being difficult to service and work on, I just completed my 5000 mile service and found it no more difficult than my 2 valve Lemans. The fact that there is one throttle body eliminates the need to synchronize fueling. Rear tire changes are a little more labor intensive with no center stand but not near as bad as I thought it would be. What would totally stump me would be the electronics if I have an issue. The more I ride this bike the more I like it for what it is. It handles like a big sport touring bike only with less ground clearan.
 
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