• Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
  • There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.
  • Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
  • Like the new V100, GuzziTech is full throttle into the future! We're now running on an all-new server and we've updated our Forum software. The visual differences are obvious, but hopefully you'll notice the super-fast speed. If you notice any glitches or have any issues, please post on the Site Support section at the bottom. If you haven't yet, please upgrade your account which is covered in the Site Support section or via the DONATE tab above, which gives you full site access including the DOWNLOADS section. We really appreciate every $ and your support to keep this site ad-free. Create an account, sign in, upgrade your account, and enjoy. See you on the road in 2024.

"Service" message appeared

Loosy gussi

Tuned and Synch'ed
Joined
Jun 1, 2015
Messages
88
Location
So.Ca.
Service word show up on the dash of my cali 1400. Diagnostic code showed code Po745 ... does anyone recognize this code? Or know where I should start to track this down? This code number does not show up in the service manual
 

Attachments

  • Trouble code.jpg
    Trouble code.jpg
    129.1 KB · Views: 57
Been there, done that!

It was the most frustrating code to try and reference, it's not referenced in the manuals, and dealers I spoke to could not help. My bike was off the road for seven weeks while I tried to diagnose the problem.

If you do a google search for P0745 (note not Po745 or PO745) you'll find this message "P0745 Pressure Control Solenoid Malfunction". I'm fairly sure the Cali 1400 doesn't have one of those. Moto Guzzi don't always follow the OBD codes, and invent some of their own, but don't publish them or if they do, not for their dealers.

I got rid of my service with a bit of black magic (in other words, I'm not sure how), but in hindsight (which I have a degree in) I suspect it might be an error in the clutch switch. It was replaced and was the last thing I was rechecking when the service code disappeared.

Try putting your bike into gear, pull the clutch in, and see if it will turn over. If it starts, keep the clutch in and flip out the side stand. The motor should stop. That was the sequence that fixed my issue.

If you can't start it, then probably your clutch switch needs replacing. Keep us informed, this is valuable information for all.
 
might be an error in the clutch switch. It was replaced and was the last thing I was rechecking when the service code disappeared.

Try putting your bike into gear, pull the clutch in, and see if it will turn over. If it starts, keep the clutch in and flip out the side stand. The motor should stop. That was the sequence that fixed my issue.

If you can't start it, then probably your clutch switch needs replacing. Keep us informed, this is valuable information for all.[/QUOTE]

Thanks Kiwi Dave, just got back to try the bike..Clutch in, kick stand down, in gear- will not start.... Clutch in, Kick stand up, in gear- bike starts. Went to try other bikes in garage, they all work the same... appears the clutch switch is ok? If I drop the kick stand down, in gear, clutch in, it kills the engine, as it should
Do you remember replacing anything else at the time? Did you use a diagnostic tool to remove the service warning
 
Hi kiwi Dave, I wanted to keep you informed (and all interested) what I have found, Pete asked me if my cruise control was working (in other forum) and I discovered after a ride that it was NOT working, which he suggests could point to a clutch or brake switch. So you were on the right track, right now I only know that the cruise control doesn't work, which definitely helps to narrow down what needs to be fixed. If you have any advise on how to proceed, I would be glad to hear it. Thanks for all your help, John
 
If you have any advise on how to proceed, I would be glad to hear it. Thanks for all your help, John

Edit: Oops, I never noticed the first reply. TThere are three conductors going to the switch -an off, an on, and a common. When the switch is activated, the "off" and "on" trade status (if you get my drift). Not sure why they they require the double throw switch, but it might be for service monitoring purpose.

When I priced a replacement clutch switch I almost fell over, NZ$180 (around US$120). You may be able to get it at a cheaper price, but I was too mean to pay that. I discovered the switch is a Burgess VL4S microswitch, which was available from element14 for $NZ28. It arrived with the same coloured cables attached, but alas they were a little short. So I spliced the old connector and some of the cable with the new microswitch, soldered the joints, and covered the lot with heat shrink.

You might not be as miserable as me.
 
Of course, it could also be the brake switch. I found early on the cable going to the rear brake pedal was touching the crossover tube on the exhausts. However the switch was still working afterwards, and this didn't clear the service.

I didn't clear the codes, but I did reset the "Handle learning" (error code P0165 if not correct) and the "Throttle learning" (error code P0185 if not correct).

Hang in there!
 
Thanks, kiwi dave that is great news to me. I used to be Mr. Cheap Tour.I cannot see paying big bucks for a radio shack switch. Thank you, for your quick response & vital information
 
Found out the switch was faulty, thanks kiwi dave & pete, my friend knows electronics , and easily soldered on the original factory wire to the new switch. I installed and used the alaris to clear the "Service" warning. These switches can be purchased online, Thanks for all the help, John 20170415 092209
 
Can the SERVICE code be cleared through the dash? When I replace my clutch switch, I won't have access to my kit, which will be 20,000km away.

Stephen
 
Clearing your service due icon (spanner or wrench) which appears every 6,000 miles or 10,000 kM is different than what stephenm is wanting to do. I know they can be cleared through Guzzidiag, but I'm doubting it can be cleared via the dashboard service menu.

The only option offered is "Reset Coupon" which I believe is only for the reoccuring spanner or wrench. I'll be delighted to be proved wrong.
 
Well, I replaced the clutch micro-switch, and woke the 1400 after its 20,000km sleep travelling by sea from Australia to the UK. The SERVICE message remained on first start up. On second start up, the SERVICE message was gone. 300km later, all normal. This may be coincidental, as this happened last October while on a tour. The message appeared, but two days later, was gone. I will have access to Guzzidiag and my cables in a week or two, in any case. How good does it feel to get back on the bike after a few months!

Stephen
 
Found out the switch was faulty, thanks kiwi dave & pete, my friend knows electronics , and easily soldered on the original factory wire to the new switch. I installed and used the alaris to clear the "Service" warning. These switches can be purchased online, Thanks for all the help, John View attachment 12060

Did your Cruise start working again? I just bought a 14' 1400, cruise inop, but previous owner said you just have to "press hard for 5-8 seconds". didn't sound right and I just saw this thread. Clutch switch is working fine on mine.
 
Cruise control does take close to 5 seconds to activate, it especially feels long when riding. Not sure about how HARD you have to press, I don't remember having to press it any harder than normal (it is a pretty "deep" button though.)
 
When I got my Audace I noticed I had to press the cruise control REALLY hard, almost to the point that it felt I might push the switch through the control block. After a few weeks of this I took it apart and was going to replace it with a "toggle switch" but I noticed it appeared to have been assembled incorrectly. Can't remember exactly what it was now as it's some months back, but you can remove the switch (it just clicks into the back of the control block via some "tabs"). If you take it apart, there is a largish spring and obviously the button sits on top of that and the switch beneath.

I did notice that some parts of the plastic button have to sit on top/line up with parts of the switch to make depressing the switch easy. If the button is rotated slightly relative to the switch you have a hard time pressing the button. I put mine back together and it's fine, I still have to press it a long way in (that's the nature of the switch), but I don't even have to push it to the stops anymore and certainly not to the point where feels like I'm about to break it
 
Press long enough and anything works. Not the finest operation, however after about 5 + sec, it finally worked. I may, after a bit, take the switch apart and examine. Shakedowns are so much fun. Now to the exhaust hitting the pannier brace (but only after getting hot.)
 
Back
Top