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Installing a new clutch + clutch rod. How does this look?

motolion

Just got it firing!
Joined
Jul 24, 2016
Messages
16
Location
San Francisco
So my v7 developed a terrible squeal when I pulled the clutch lever in and would not work as expected. I took it to Munroe Motors in SF and they said they "found oil and clutch dust in the bell housing" and it was going to cost $2,500 to fix it. They also told me they could not do the work until November and couldn't get the parts until August. Do you know why these guys would want to dodge my business so hard? Doesn't make sense to me.

So I decided to do the work myself. I have the clutch plate removed and thought I would take some pictures to show everyone. I am planning on replacing the plate and entire clutch rod assembly. See my parts list below.


1 x flywheel and ring gear holding tool for big twins (12911801K) = $51.22

1 x clutch throwout bearing Most 4, 5 and 6 speed transmissions (12087001) = $14.19

1 x clutch push rod, 5 speed transmission (14085700) = $17.37

1 x clutch bearing inner body Many Guzzi models (14086000) = $18.90

1 x clutch outer body, Many Guzzi big and small twin models (14086100) = $24.00

1 x Clutch plate V7 Classic, V7 Stone, V7 Cafe, Breva 750, V65s, (32084410) = $94.89

1 x Clutch alignment and installation tool, fits 2mm and 4mm spline (MG161) = $68.00

1 x clutch outer body plunger throwout oring Most all Guzzis (90706170) = $0.78


How does that plate look?
Do you think I should replace the pressure cup, too?


IMG 0081 IMG 0082 IMG 0086 IMG 0088 IMG 0089
 
You seen to have a mixed parts list. Some of the items such as the clutch alignment tool is for big blocks only, not the V7. I suggest you get a parts manual and order the correct parts. The clutch alignment tool you will need is the one for small blocks. I don't see the seals and o-rings needed to seal the clutch push rod. I suggest you get a parts manual for your bike and prepare to order the correct parts.

I don't see oil contamination, but ring gear sure is burnt and at the very least needs to be surfaced before you put them back in service. With that much slippage I suspect the diaphragm spring is weak in what the parts manual calls the clutch so the clutch part number 32080310 should be replaced.

I'm surprised on this type of clutch design where the clutch plate rides on the gearbox input shaft that Guzzi doesn't grease the splines of the gearbox input shaft. Once the splines wear you can't just replace a hub gear like on the two plate systems, you have to replace the gearbox input shaft.
 
mine has had a squeal when it hot and clutch pulled in 1st gear at stops whatever since new
the dealer said SOUND not noise so i never went back. i think its the throwout bearing but not positive
about that. so what is the diagnostic of the actual noise? i have no sign of other trouble and this bike shifts nice
Just has a bad squeal or chirping noise sometimes when it hot out
 
mine has had a squeal when it hot and clutch pulled in 1st gear at stops whatever since new
the dealer said SOUND not noise so i never went back. i think its the throwout bearing but not positive
about that. so what is the diagnostic of the actual noise? i have no sign of other trouble and this bike shifts nice
Just has a bad squeal or chirping noise sometimes when it hot out


This also occurred on the 750 Brevas. We never did find a cause. I replaced the throw out bear on one and it still made that "sound". Answer as far as I know, if everything is still working OK ignore that squeal. If you have a radio, turn it up so you don't hear it.
 
Guys, I need some more help here.

For some reason, the clutch rod either doesn't go in far enough or the clutch pressure plate is frozen in place and lost all spring. Does this happen? How much play should I get out of the clutch pressure plate? I can't even my cable back on. Any ideas? I'm trying t problem solve this morning.
 
john zibell said:
I'm surprised on this type of clutch design where the clutch plate rides on the gearbox input shaft that Guzzi doesn't grease the splines of the gearbox input shaft. Once the splines wear you can't just replace a hub gear like on the two plate systems, you have to replace the gearbox input shaft.

Right, it's the same set up as on Beemers. Google 'clutch spline lube BMW' and you'll find a world of posts about what happens if you don't pull the gearbox and lube the splines.
I just did it on my recently bought K1100LT. BMW dealers here in the area don't even know what your talking about when asking for spline lube. Funny that. Go to the Honda car dealer and ask for Honda 70 Moly. This is the only stuff that's good enough.
About $30CAN for a little tube but will last you a life time. Don't use the oily stuff that comes out of the tube first. This will get flung off your splines and end up on your clutch plate... Wait for fairly dry grey paste to come out of the tube and toothbrush it on. Easy.
 
2014 V7 Special - 6,000 miles

Here's the deal...

I replaced the friction plate and got a new shift rod assembly. I put the gearbox back on and tried to put the clutch lever back on and I have no room to make it fit. With the adjustment screw all the way in at the handlebar I still can fit the cable on. When I use my hand to push the rod in using the clutch arm behind the gearbox I still can't get the rod to push in.

1. Is it possible that my clutch friction plate is seized and is not letting the rod push it in?
2. Is it possible that because my frame is crabbed right now, this is haveing an effect on the clutch cable somehow???
3. I don't think I could have fit the gearbox back on to the engine if it wasn't aligned perfectly but could this be some sort of alignment issue?
 
3. I don't think I could have fit the gearbox back on to the engine if it wasn't aligned perfectly but could this be some sort of alignment issue?
Everything can go back together but if the order is even slightly wrong or could be something like a part isn't seated fully as well, the clutch push rod will stick out. Does the adjuster seem to be in the same location? Did you unthread the adjuster? Otherwise, near impossible to diagnose via the internet.
 
Right, it's the same set up as on Beemers. Google 'clutch spline lube BMW' and you'll find a world of posts about what happens if you don't pull the gearbox and lube the splines.
I just did it on my recently bought K1100LT. BMW dealers here in the area don't even know what your talking about when asking for spline lube. Funny that. Go to the Honda car dealer and ask for Honda 70 Moly. This is the only stuff that's good enough.
About $30CAN for a little tube but will last you a life time. Don't use the oily stuff that comes out of the tube first. This will get flung off your splines and end up on your clutch plate... Wait for fairly dry grey paste to come out of the tube and toothbrush it on. Easy.


I've had good luck using Amsoil synthetic grease on BMWs. Stays sticky, doesn't harden. I've gone back in on BMWs after 40 K miles and grease was still good. I've found the Honda Moly to harden and disappear. Do not lube the splines on the two plate system. Leave those dry.
 
I've had good luck using Amsoil synthetic grease on BMWs. Stays sticky, doesn't harden. I've gone back in on BMWs after 40 K miles and grease was still good. I've found the Honda Moly to harden and disappear. Do not lube the splines on the two plate system. Leave those dry.
I just went with what most people recommended on the web, not wanting to use my personal favorite Quicksilver spline grease since I don't know what that does in hot circumstances as opposed to boat applications. That stuff is still on prop splines after a year in salt water! I doubt I will still have this Beemer after this season, can't really get passionate about 4 cylinder vibes and sound. Love the adjustable patio door up front though :) 1993K11100LT
 
Everything can go back together but if the order is even slightly wrong or could be something like a part isn't seated fully as well, the clutch push rod will stick out. Does the adjuster seem to be in the same location? Did you unthread the adjuster? Otherwise, near impossible to diagnose via the internet.

Okay so I just went in and measured the clutch cable length. It's 49-49.5 inches total, rounding the bent part as well. I was thinking that the mechanic could have put on a smaller cable.

Here's why... My clutch rod went out so I took it to the shop and they gave it back to me and it felt great again. Shortly after I was riding home and while accelerating from a stop sign my clutch lever went very slack (not all the way) and when I would pull it I would get a pretty incredible squeal. I removed the clutch rod to have a peek and the bearing was completely disintegrated and the washer had a pie slice shaped hole taken out of it plus the end of the rod was mushroomed. Maybe they did a quick and dirty fix and put a shorter cable on to remove the slack?

The only other thing I can think of would be the pressure plate being too pushed out??? That doesn't make sense though....

What do you all think???

Check this video out: https://www.dropbox.com/s/wv01pz2uqwkypfa/No-Clutch-Slack.MOV?dl=0

IMG 0171 IMG 0172 IMG 0173
 
Last edited:
I think the cable length is correct. It's 42.5 inches which is the stock length. I had to look up how to correctly measure the cable :)

Still looking for help on this.
 
Hey, where did my support go??
These are very technical questions that largely only a shop can answer, or someone who happens to have a stock cable laying around.
As I mentioned, things like this are impossibly tough to be of help with online.
 
As Todd has indicated, it sounds like something is not fully seated. There are not really different cable lengths, just adjusters for the cable.
I would take it back apart and see if you can figure out which part is not seated correctly.
 
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