Speedometer Issue

[Freebirdbeachbum]

All this happened during a 3,000 moto-camping trip on my 2011 Norge 8v.

Related or not, after a bad battery necessitated a new one a few hundred miles into the trip, all appeared well when at some point the speedometer stopped operating on start up after a brief lunch or refueling break. At some point later in the trip, again after a brief break for refueling, it started operating normally and continued until it stopped again after a brief break and stayed stopped for the last 1,000 miles or so.

The bike did not get wet before it stopped operating initially but did get rained on a couple of times both when and when not operating.

 

[kiwi dave]

ABS still working?

 

[Freebirdbeachbum]

ABS still working?

The light remains on I assume because of speedo fails to register the little mph it takes to turn it off. As far as the ABS working, other than intentionally getting on the brakes hard which I haven't done for fear of life, I cant be certain.

 

[Bisbonian]

Does the speedo work off the ABS sensor on these? I"m assuming that is where kiwi dave is heading toward.

 

[kiwi dave]

Does the speedo work off the ABS sensor on these? I"m assuming that is where kiwi dave is heading toward.

Yep, that is what I'm thinking.

 

[Brian UK]

The Norge speedo does work off one of the ABS sensors, if the ABS light is on then you have an ABS fault, possibly just a faulty sensor.
These sensors are not prone to water ingress like the speedo sensors on other models.

 

[Freebirdbeachbum]

Look what I found wrapped around the rear ABS wheel and stuck between it and the sensor.

It didn't fix the problem however.

 

[john zibell]

That may have been enough to either damage the sensor, or made the gap too large for the sensor to work.

 

[P.odono76a]

Power to the wheel sensors is supplied through the ABS module.Go under the seat,locate the leads from the ABS module to the wheel sensors and disconnect one of the sensors from the ABS module.Refer to the service manual to find which of the wheel sensor leads is power, 12volts.With multi meter check for power out of the ABS module for 12 volts with ignition on.12 volts from the module should be present.If it is not ABS module has failed.Repeat process for second sensor lead.No voltage,find your favorite dealer and order new part.When my ABS module failed no repair shops could get access to the main chip needed to repair the board in the module.You could check different repair shops to see if parts are available at this time.Mine failed 1.5 years ago so possibility exists that you can get repairs on the ATE module now.Other symptoms of a failed module are ABS light on all the time,no speedo,no fuel consumption calculator.To be noted if you are considering to do the repair yourself,the ABS module now supplied is applicable to the Norge and Stelvio.The difference between the two models is the ground wire connection in the main ABS module connector on the L/H side.If I recall correctly,the Norge's ground is pin #1 and the Stelvio's is pin #15.This is due to the Stelvio has traction control.The dealer diagnostic tool is required to set the ground circuit programming.Best of luck.Expect the worst and rejoice if it's simple and inexpensive.

 

[john zibell]

If it is the ABS module, these guys might be able to so something as they do the BMW motorcycle units. If they don't do the Guzzi yet, they may become interested if there is a demand. https://modulemaster.com/rebuilds/

 

[Freebirdbeachbum]

Thanks for worst-case scenario solutions fellas.

I'm going with "the crap wrapped around the sensor and wheel damaged the sensor" scenario. Looking back on the timing of the problem, it makes sense that the crap was the cause of the failure. I removed the sensor and it didn't appear to be damaged but I ordered a replacement.

 

[scottmastrocinque]

Thanks for worst-case scenario solutions fellas.

I'm going with "the crap wrapped around the sensor and wheel damaged the sensor" scenario. Looking back on the timing of the problem, it makes sense that the crap was the cause of the failure. I removed the sensor and it didn't appear to be damaged but I ordered a replacement.

I think you may have jumped the gun. The most likely problem, like John Zibell said, is that it was sufficient to change the gap between the sensor and the hall effect wheel hub. That distance is critical for proper operation. Did you check that first?

 

[Freebirdbeachbum]

I think you may have jumped the gun. The most likely problem, like John Zibell said, is that it was sufficient to change the gap between the sensor and the hall effect wheel hub. That distance is critical for proper operation. Did you check that first?

View attachment 12537

Sorry for the untimely reply and thanks I was out of town.

Based on my visual, I see no way a gap adjustment could be made .

 

[scottmastrocinque]

Sorry for the untimely reply and thanks I was out of town.

Based on my visual, I see no way a gap adjustment could be made .

Neither John nor I ever said to make a gap adjustment? Where in the world did you get that from?

We cannot help you if you do not read what we write and give to you. So, please, the image I provided for you is the service manual itself. It details precisely how to check the gap and gives you the measurement specification. You need to read and understand it to proceed.

You never said what your mechanical ability is so I am assuming that you have some, but if this is wrong, please say so!

So,

First check that your 3 points that you measure are within the specification listed:

0.3 mm ≤ measured gap ≥ 2.0 mm

I would first start with a 0.3mm feeler gauge and make sure that nothing is tighter than that. Next I would use a 2.0mm feeler gauge and make sure that none of them is wider than this.

If the 3 points that you measure are greater than the specification but relatively close to each other, then the hub is likely straight and you need to replace the sensor.

If the 3 points that you measure are that 1 or 2 are within the specification and 1 or 2 are not within, then the hub is likely bent and you need to replace it.

If the 3 points that you measure are both way out of specification and wildly different from each other, then you probably bent up both the sensor and the hub and you will need to replace both.

If the 3 points that you measure are all within specification, then your problem lies elsewhere.

If this confuses you, please check and record the results, and report it back here, and I can help you further if you like.

Good Luck and let us know how it goes!

Best Wishes,

Scott

 

[Freebirdbeachbum]

Thanks Scott for your tough-love response. I get it now. The sensor replacement is on the way. I'll give it a try first and if that fails to fix the problem I'll get a feeler gauge and check the hub.

 

[john zibell]

Thanks Scott for your tough-love response. I get it now. The sensor replacement is on the way. I'll give it a try first and if that fails to fix the problem I'll get a feeler gauge and check the hub.

Doesn't make sense to just replace parts and hope. It would make more sense to check the gap first, or get an ohm reading on the sensor before ordering parts.