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Breva 1100 Restoration Project

Thank you John for those tips. I'm going to strip the frame to get it powder coated. One of the front, top engine mounting tubes needs a weld repair to replace the end section. I'm not intending to use it in winter in future. I ahve learnt that the Ethanol they put in petrol over here is the likely culprit of the fuel tank blistering. So I will be emptying the new tank over winter and leaving it to ventilate. I'm changing the colour from the stock grey to Red. Already have a replacement tank and silencer.
For the wiring loop I'm intending to replace the cloth wrapping with my own wrapping. I have similar self-amalgamating cloth tape that looks very similar to that used on the Breva loom.
I had a look at the wheels today. I need to remove the disks to have them blasted and redone by a specialist. The pan head hex bolts are imposible to remove without drilling out the centres. Have you done this before. Is it possible to remove the bolt material without the need for helicoiling?
This is what I did with my GPZ900R to get the stripped bolt out. Little zap with a MIG. :) Stud2 MetalGear
 
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Thank you John for those tips. I'm going to strip the frame to get it powder coated. One of the front, top engine mounting tubes needs a weld repair to replace the end section. I'm not intending to use it in winter in future. I ahve learnt that the Ethanol they put in petrol over here is the likely culprit of the fuel tank blistering. So I will be emptying the new tank over winter and leaving it to ventilate. I'm changing the colour from the stock grey to Red. Already have a replacement tank and silencer.
For the wiring loop I'm intending to replace the cloth wrapping with my own wrapping. I have similar self-amalgamating cloth tape that looks very similar to that used on the Breva loom.
I had a look at the wheels today. I need to remove the disks to have them blasted and redone by a specialist. The pan head hex bolts are imposible to remove without drilling out the centres. Have you done this before. Is it possible to remove the bolt material without the need for helicoiling?
Water is the culprit for the swelling, the tank is rotationaly moulded Nylon which absorbs water and swells. Ethanol attracts water and if you leave ethanol laced fuel sitting for a time the water will separate out and the nylon will absorb some. If you are leaving the tank to ventilate I would suggest making sure it is in a warm dry place

Steve
 
..... Now, using a 5lb small sledge hammer, place the drift inside of the hex bolt and with some gusto, rap the punch 3-5 times per bolt. This shock will shatter any corrosion but more importantly, any Locktite used on the bolt which is what is actually holding the bolt in so tight. .....

I'd urge some caution in using what looks to be a sound technique

I used an impact drive to shift a steel screw only to discover after one blow (2lb Ball Pein hammer) that the the cast alloy lug snapped off

Happily it wasn't structural so alloy soldered/brazed back on

Before using Scotts technique give the job a good coat of looking at and if appropriate fashion some solid support behind the casting to support it
 
I'd urge some caution in using what looks to be a sound technique

I used an impact drive to shift a steel screw only to discover after one blow (2lb Ball Pein hammer) that the the cast alloy lug snapped off

Happily it wasn't structural so alloy soldered/brazed back on

Before using Scotts technique give the job a good coat of looking at and if appropriate fashion some solid support behind the casting to support it

Firt off I am sorry you expertienced problems however -

I'm not even sure what it is you said you did here and how my technique somehow caused you an issue, but from what I could try to make out what you said, it does not sound like you were using the technique I presented which is for removing Loctite covered bolts holding rotors to wheels, without stripping the bolt head.

As to support behind the striking surface - in my technique, by the very design, the threads are inside of the hub which is the strongest part of the wheel, completely supported and we are giving the center of the bolt a good rap, not trying to bash it into the ground.

Also, there is no more dangerous tool in the hand that that of the impact driver, which you say you used first to do whatever it was you were doing, and then blamed my technique for your snapped off piece. I think you might want to re-evaluate which tool did the damage.

Hence, my initial opening comment on my technique

"It's using the correct tools and technique and this does not include a torch, drill, impact driver or impact gun!!!"
I stand upon what I said,

"This method works perfectly and does no damage to the wheel."
If you used it on just a general bolt someplace else, well then the motto in my profile applies...

abusus non tollit usum - (misuse of something is no argument against its proper use).
 
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Sorry Scott - I didn't make myself clear

I didn't use your technique, I wasn't working on a wheel and the only "TOOL" to be blamed was ME ;)

Any of us that have spent time working on old cars and bikes know the frustration in getting out stuck bolts either due to locktite or corrosion.

I only resorted to the impact driver when normal hand techniques failed and I didn't want to chew the head up or shear the bolt off in the casting

So, the idea of striking the end of the bolt to shock the loctite free makes complete sense to me. and, if the problem is caused by corrosion as a bear minimum I can see that it would cause cracks to let penetrating oil ...... penetrate :nod:

Therefore, if you chose extrapolate a version of Scotts method to other areas it will very likely work, but if you beat on a casting as I did don't be surprised if something drops off

However, I learnt my lesson and the impact driver is now at the bottom of my list of solutions and as a result of this thread I now have a new one.

Happy Days :cool::cool:
 
The wiring loop is finished. I went through every connector and checked, cleaned and oiled with ACF50. The cloth wrapping was removed and some plastic too. Recovered in self-amalgamating waterproof tape. No surprises with the connectors. Nearly all were largely corrosion free. Not shown is a fuse box I added several years ago for auxiliary things like extra lights and heated handlebars.

I have acquired a replacement fuse unit that has a power relay that feeds four fuses. Nice and compact and will wire that in for the handlebar grips.

20170616 163628 1
 
I am about to pee my pants with anticipation to see this thing when it is done. I'm also really curious as to the total cost when you are done.

So exciting! Pass the popcorn please.
 
Taking John's advice I had the camshaft reground and treated by Kent Cams here in the UK. Still slight pitting (presumably it was deeper than they wanted to grind for risk of reduced hardening thickness) but much better than it was.
I now have all I need to start the re-build of the engine.
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Taking John's advice I had the camshaft reground and treated by Kent Cams here in the UK. Still slight pitting (presumably it was deeper than they wanted to grind for risk of reduced hardening thickness) but much better than it was.
I now have all I need to start the re-build of the engine.
View attachment 12747
Thanks for sharing these details. Your rebuild makes an interesting story.
 
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I have got on well with the engine build. New piston rings fitted and heads on. Also clutch replaced.
Replacing the oil control rings was a nightmare. They are very fragile and I broke one. For the replacement I proceeded very slowly with lots of light and care.

I mustn't forget to put the anti-ring rubbers back.

I acquired a small jack-up platform off ebay to build the bike on.
20170804 133537 1 20170804 133745 1 20170804 133806 1
 
Today I added the front cover and alternator. Then added the gearbox. Now where did I put the frame!!
I'm surprised how smoothly everything is going. I'm using the parts diagram to select the fasteners and that works well.

20170805 145846 1
 
The frame is on and the centre stand. Also added the forks. I'm hoping to get the front wheel on early and transfer the weight to the centre stand. My nice engine support is too high to easily move away without doing some gymnastics. Best remove it early before the weight builds up. Also aim to add some strap support from above.
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Looks like this is the point to run the wire harnesses before everything gets filled up with parts.
 
Looks like this is the point to run the wire harnesses before everything gets filled up with parts.
Thanks John, I know that point is coming soon but not yet for me. I'm concentrating on getting two wheels on the ground. Then the throttle bodies and the rear mudguard plastic stuff. Then the loom. I placed temporary bolts in the rear of the main stand plates and you can see these in the photo. This is because I don't want mount the lamb chop side plates fixed yet. They restrict access and are part of the main stand fixing. So more jacking up later to support the weight off the main stand to get those bolts through.
 
Excellent refurb so much hard work but what about that oem rear shock does it need work? Please can u do my 90K miler?
 
NPS, consider moving your main earth from the stud the starter cover mounts onto. The bolt just above it that holds the flywheel housing is a good point - you will need to enlarge the holes in the lugs though, so care is needed. Works out better for earthing and charging. The original point is fragile and does not provide the best earth...

Keep the story coming - me likey!
 
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