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Front axle stuck

N

Ninja

Tuned and Synch'ed
Joined
Jun 7, 2010
Messages
62
Location
Royston, Herts
Oh man.

I've had (what I presume to be anyway) a front wheel bearing fail. I crawled home at 30mph max for the 2miles. It was making a dreadful noise.

So, not to worry - got home and got a new set on order and went out to start on removing the old bearings to laugh at them.

But - I can't get the axle out :(

I have:

* removed axle nut, loosened pinch bolts (left callipers on)
* got a block of wood and used it to protect the axle while I hit it with a hammer, from the threaded end)
* got a rubber mallet and used it to hit the axle
* got a sledge hammer and used the rubber mallet to protect the axle
* heated forks/clamps with blow torch
* applied WD40

I've managed to

* move the axle a few mm out the other end
* on the other side, the threaded side, the gap between the inside of the fork and the inside of the wheel has increased a good few mm, exposing some of the spacer

I need some advice - I don't know what to do next :(

Will I damage the forks or anything by continued hitting with a big hammer? Should I just carry on? Help please!
 
First WD-40 is lousy penetrant. Try a speciality penetrant like Kroil or Nuts Off. You can make your own with a 50/50 mix of ATF and acetone. The home made and Kroil are the top of the line.
Heating the forks I do not think will make and difference as from your description it is moving in the forks but not the wheel.
I am willing to bet the axle is worn with a groove that matches the bearings. If it is that it is probably locking the axle in. Then it could get tricky and you will need a new axle.
I am not sure if Stelvio wheel bearings are held in with a snap ring or not. If they are I would NOT do the following unless you have a spare front wheel.
If you can brace the fork with on the exit side it would help. My first thought is a hole drilled in a piece of wood large enough for the axle to pass into then that is braced by a friend with a large sledge while you hit the opposing side. If the wood isn't deep enough then maybe use it for fork protection and a piece of pipe for more depth. I am thinking once it moves just a little in the bearings you will be ok.
Now, if this is too crude and/or you have snap rings on the bearings I have seen a guy resort to this. Get that small gap between the fork and wheel then whip out the trusty sawzall and cut the axle on each side. You can then remove the snap rings and put the wheel in a press. Of course he did it on an older less valuable bike and had another axle available.
I'm sure there will be other ideas.
 
Lubricant won't do much so use anything you have available. No snap ring on the bearing. Press fit.

Just keep hitting. If you have moved it a couple of mm is should go more. Most likely you destroyed one of the bearings. So now the inner race is either seized on the axel or fused to it. Or jammed against the balls.

You won't damage the forks as long as you don't hit them. Just make sure the pins on both sides are completely removed.

May be easier to drop both fork legs so you can get the tire on the bench and get some support on the one side of the axel. Either way, keep whacking away. If you gain a little hit it back from the other side. You may be able to move it back and forth enough for something to give.

Can you turn the axel? If you can get it out far enough there is a hole on the other end of the axel that you can get a screw driver through. If you can spin the axel may loosen something up.

Failing all that a shop may be able to press it out or as a last resort cut the axel off. Let hope it does not come to that.
 
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Thanks - thats all good to know - I was worried about damaging the forks with all the desperate hitting.

What are the pins you mention where you say "just make sure the pins are completely removed"? It would be great if I'd just forgotten something!

We went and hit it some more - the axle is free to move through the clamps, i.e. the axle will show a few mm out, but easily springs back when prodded (well using a screwdriver across the two notches to turn it).

So - I'm not convinced it's moving through the bearings at all. But if a few mm has poked through the fork clamp, that few mm must have come from somewhere?!

I ought to post a few photos - I'm not very good at explaining things!

edit: just had a thought. when hitting the axle, I use a rubber mallet head, as bits of 4x2 and other wood just smash to pieces.

If I was to grab a piece of extruded aluminium (uk spelling :)) and use that as a 'drift' would that be ok on the axle? It'd sure transmit more of the force.
 
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Sorry, by pins I mean't the two bolts on either side pinching the axle. I would just remove all four so there is no chance it will grab. Loosing is usually sufficient but just to be sure take them out.

I suspect the inner race is jambing but anyone's guess at this point.

Heat on the axle will only make it worse. You could try cooling it. I have used a can of compressed air (kind people use to removed dust from computers) and turn it upside down. The propellant in those is damn cold when it comes to atmospheric pressure. When you turn it upside down, you get only the liquid. Not liquid nitrogen cold, but enough to freeze anything including your hands so wear gloves when holding the can.

If you can get a torch on the bearings it may help but you will never get close enough. If you are lucky and the seized bearing is on the opposite side of the wheel of the axle thread then it may pop out.
 
Yes - I have some air dusters - I might even have some freezer spray, so that's a good idea! I'll grab a length of the extruded aluminium too - will provide a sharper hit - so long as I don't damage the axle! I'll start gently!
 
If I recall correctly, the thread end has a dimple in it for a drift. May help. You can also put the nut back on and hammer against the nut. Will take a lot to bugger the thread with the nut on it, but it is possible.
 
With what you have explained I think it is time to sacrifice the axle (just cut it off both sides of the wheel) or drop the forks. You will need to lift the bike quite a bit to be able to drop the fork tubes. Hopefully you have a garage and can suspend the bike from a chain fall or similar. If you have access to an engine hoist that could work also. Rent a hoist if you have to to get the wheel out.
 
Yay - axle out!

I used a brass headed hammer borrowed from work and it only took a few sharp whacks to get it moving. So - lesson learnt and hopefully others might benefit from this too.

The old bearings came out nicely. One bearing looked in good shape, but the other was pretty messed up - it looks like the oil seal got dragged into it - maybe as a consequence, or maybe the cause.

Right, just gotta hope the new bearings arrive in the post tomorrow (and they're the right size!)

Coincidentally, all my service kit arrived yesterday, so if you're lucky there may be a few more tricky situations I need hope with :)
 
If you have a freezer and a heat gun the install will go pretty easy. How is the condition of the axle?
 
Yes, will remember to use the heat/freezer - and to put the space in..!

The axle was pretty dry and rusty - but thankfully no mechanical damage as such. I was afraid the bearing had worn a groove into the axle or something. It cleaned up pretty well with some emery - I might see if the local car spares place has any Scotchbrite to finish.

Any particular grease I should use on axle/bearings when replacing - any waterproof grease?
 
Excellent. Right tool for the job always makes it go easier.

Any waterproof grease will work. Bearings are sealed bearings so no grease needed other than maybe a little on when installed to stop moisture from penetrating. Also grease up the axle so it will be easier next time. And don't forget to put the spacer back in.

+1 on the freeze heat method. Should just drop right in. If not the right sized socket will help it go in. Think a 32mm socket will work. Don't remember. It was either that or 27mm. Make sure they are full seated or you will end up chewing up the new set quickly.
 
Ninja said:
Any particular grease I should use on axle/bearings when replacing - any waterproof grease?
Click to expand...

The only grease you need is to coat the axle to prevent rust and to make insertion and removal easier. Any chassis or wheel bearing grease will do. Be careful cleaning up that axle. If you remove too much material it won't support correctly as the inner race may have too much clearance to the axle. The axle needs to be a slip fit.
 
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