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V7 Situation

What Trout said: these bikes like to be ridden hard, long and fast.

Clutch adjustment similar to my new V7 III Special: tweaked it so engages with lever further out: bingo N is easy and overall new transmission smoother.

Get the Aprilia "sport" mirrors, -- identical that come with new Stone models I think. Much improved over the chrome ones with limited adjustment. Or Rizoma bar end mirrors are great, have those on my Triumph.
 
I totally get that, Trout. There is good fun in getting through a complicate traffic situation safely, emphasis on safely, due to careful stepping through. In CA we can share/split lanes. I often get in front of stopped traffic at lights safely that way, then on green, get on it, and stay in front - road to myself. I think fearful riding is something different. I suspect a fearful rider would not be as alert as a confident one.

To be honest, all my fear is in the maintenance. I want to have confidence in the bike under me, when I ride it, and not worry there is some "mechanical" waiting to happen.
 
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Update on cafe bar flip. FAIL. Most because I don't like the look. Thinking flat, or adjustable bars. I've eliminated the bar flip as a option.
IMG 0203

Verses

IMG 0209
 
I sure would like to see the parts and labor break down for a $750 service! 2 new tires might get it up there and a slow mechanic that checked every screw on the bike still shouldn't take 2 1/2 hours do re-torque, valve set all fluids etc.
 
Update on cafe bar flip. FAIL. Most because I don't like the look. Thinking flat, or adjustable bars. I've eliminated the bar flip as a option.

Flat bars aren't going to get you much lower than you already have. Have you considered clip-ons mounted on the fork stanchions?
You'll be left with a couple of holes on the top triple tree where the previous bar mounts were, but I don't think that will matter.
 
@kiwi dave

First, I used to live south of the Bombays on the west coast: In the 'Naki.

Second, I have considered clip-ons. Do you have a cafe setup? Care to share?
 
that's a $350. service with parts as far as I'm concerned. And you can bet he won't check may of the fasteners other than the commonly loose ones. the heads won't need to be retorqued.
time to down load a service manual and learn how to do things yourself.
 
When I had my first service done for warranty purposes just in case... It cost me $250AU oil changed heads tightened plus valve adjustment.
So I don't get how you can get charged so much in th USofA.
 
Change the spark plugs and adjust the valves, I think the valves probably are out of whack. I don't think that Russian guy did anything to that bike is my guess, so the valves have not been adjusted since I adjusted them at the 15,000 mark. That bike always started first try for me hot or cold, I did have a download added to the EFI which helped with the cold starting when I first got it. So the only history you don't have is from 18,000 miles to whatever you have on the bike now, everything else you can get from me. That bike was very well maintained when I owned it. Only real issue for me was the oil blow by into the air box, most of that happens over 80 mph hour on the freeway at extended RPM's. No big deal with the extended sump, can't really run out of oil with the extra quart in the sump. Warm and fuzzy feeling with that. LOL.

Enjoy, it's really a great bike and was broken in with all the little snafoos things fixed and adjusted.

By the way I did install a K@N air filter on that bike, just wash that and put it back on, do not use the paper filter because those become saturated with oil. Keep that K@N on that bike or you will end up with issues.
 
Hopefully the red plastic tool remained in the tool bag that help remove and tighten the dip stick plug?

Make sure you use that to tighten that dip stick plug, otherwise it will loosen up and spit oil all over your right foot, been there done that.

Also if you ever need my phone number it's imprinted on that tool? So you will always have my number.
 
um, still learning. I have stopped twisting the throttle when starting; rather just leave the throttle alone, and it start up first try now. Not sure why I was ever doing that.

@elkgrichard Thanks for the tip about the tool. I'm looking forward to meeting and tuning up the values. Thanks
 
@vagrant I have downloaded all the manuals I can find, and I have the first owner willing to help with some details. I think I'll go it alone. Really loving this motorcycling life!
 
Hey Elkgric it's strange how you were getting so much oil in the air box?
I get a little bit in mine and I mean very little and I don't ride slow but I ended up taking that little clear bulb off the air box from behind the left side cover and ran a clear hose down the frame with a plug in the end.
So when I get any oil I can see it in the tube and just pull the plug and empty.
The funny thing is that if you look at the guzzi PDF of the v7II air box it shows a hose not a clear stopper.
 
They changed that breather hose routing on the V72 compared to the 2013 from what I understand?

I think they were trying to address the oil feed issue into the airbox. Sounds like they did ok with it maybe.

I've had issue with this on other bikes. Common issue with the breather hoses going into the airbox.
 
um, still learning. I have stopped twisting the throttle when starting; rather just leave the throttle alone, and it start up first try now. Not sure why I was ever doing that.

@elkgrichard Thanks for the tip about the tool. I'm looking forward to meeting and tuning up the values. Thanks
Most EFI bikes it's better to leave the throttle alone when starting them. They have a tendency to flood if you touch the throttles.
 
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