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2007 Norge displaying wrong voltage on dash

brentis1

Just got it firing!
Joined
Jul 3, 2014
Messages
14
Hi Guys,
Just after a quick hand from someone if possible. I have a 2007 Norge that has developed an annoying foible. It is flicking between 11.9v and 12v on the dash when the battery voltage is much higher (up to 13V). Of course the magic software won’t let me start the old girl. I have pulled the RH side plastic and there is 13V on the starter motor terminals and no corrossion. Obviously there is a bit of corrosion somewhere in the measuring circuit. Does anyone have a wiring diagram or any ideas on how to get sorted. Any help appreciated. I have attached a couple of pictures to show you where I have go to.
Cheers

Brent
 

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I have a Breva 1100 and I always get just under a 1 volt difference between the battery and the dash. I thinks its due to the size of the wire and the connectors used. There are a few connectors under the seat and when the reading on the dash gets more than a 1 volt difference I pull the connectors apart and spray contact cleaner on them, also pull the relevant fuse out and re seat them and that brings up the reading. I think there is a wiring diagram in the downloads section. Kevin
 
The dash shows what the ECU sees (as reported to the dash). Wire resistance/connections seem to be the culprit. Always best to measure voltage at the battery as you did.
See post above. Exhaustingly covered here on this site.
 
If the battery is showing 13v, engine not running of course, it's unlikely to be a battery problem.
As Kevin says, pull all the connectors apart and pull the fuses, and spray contact cleaner in. There is one three way connection hidden in the loom, and on my Norge, I found it was getting quite charred. Replaced the bit of wire from the alternator to the battery and got round that. Dash now reads the same as the battery, within 0.2v.
 
Hi Guys,
Thanks for all the advice. New battery was the first thing I tried.

On Kevin's advice I am now chasing the volts up the red and white wire (bashed schematic). This looks like the 12VDC feed to the display. I have pulled apart all the plugs under the seat, and fuses, and applied Electroclean. Will continue up the loom to see if I can where I am getting the volt drop - interesting to know there is a connector in the main loom. What to try and measure voltage up at the dash so removed all the dash screws and windscreen to try and get the dash out but I can only move it up above its original position by 30mm. Any ideas or tricks, or do I just have to apply more force.

Cheers

Brent
 
If the dash is the same as my Breva, you remove the chrome cover (4 small screws) then unscrew 3 large screws through the rubber mount, wiggle the dash off the mount and remove the multi pin plugs by disengaging the lock mechanism. Maybe disconnect the battery before doing this. You can then get to the 40 or so pins in the rear of the dash. On reassembly make sure to locate the plug n pins correctly. When I removed mine for the 1st time one of the pins was bend and squashed flat, must have happened at the factory. Fortunately the pin was unused so I left it as is, i think it would have snapped off if I tried to re align it anyway.
 
Hi Kevin,

Thanks for that. The Norge dash is quite different. It is a large plastic cover that sits between both side fairings. The locating screws (8 in total) are all accessible from the top, if you remove them, then shift the dash downward and out it unclips from the side and front fairings (if the windscreen is removed). Can get it too this stage where it is loose and effectively out of the fairings but can't get it to come right off. The connection cable to the dash doesn't look to be tight so don't think it is that. Just not sure if I am missing a fastening or need to know a "special" trick. Thanks for the advice on the pin alignment!!
 
It's been a while since I owned a Norge, but I remember there wasn't a lot of cable available, just enough to get at the multipin plugs. If you unplug and plug it back in a few times, this may cure your fault. That's how I made the dashboard scroll button start working again.

The wiring diagram suggests the dash is supplied 12v power on pin 11 of the grey connector, and pins 21 & 22 of the black connector. You should be able to measure this with a DVM. If you get 12v, then it's likely the dash itself is suspect.

Or, pin 28 of the black connector has a wire connected directly to the ECU. This might be the line that the ECU reports with as described by Todd. It is also available easily at the dash diagnostics connector. This is a 3 pin connector that has blue, black and pink cables. Try measuring the black one. I have no idea where this diagnostics connector resides.
 
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Thanks Guys - I will try these suggestions over the weekend and keep you posted.
 
The panel you mention holds the dash, not the dash itself. The dash is still put together in the same way as the Breva one.
Remember you have to unlock the multiway connectors before you can pull them off.

Can someone explain why a poor battery would give the symptom of 13v across the battery and under 12v displayed at the dash at the same time, with only the ignition switched on? Yes if it dies when you press the start button, but the battery volts would die too.
 
This is the panel I am trying to remove to get to the back of the dash and multi-pin connector. I must be missing something obvious
 

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From memory, I think there are two screws that screw in horizontally from the tank position. I can't remember whether the tank needs to be removed first. Have you done these?
 
Can someone explain why a poor battery would give the symptom of 13v across the battery and under 12v displayed at the dash at the same time, with only the ignition switched on

I've never understood this either. A voltmeter is a high impedance input device, and therefore theoretically should not place any appreciable load on the cable that is feeding it. However, in reality, it is the ECU that apparently drives the voltmeter, so what the voltage needs to read +12v might not even be +12 volts; it could be +5v for instance, and just calibrated this way. A DVM would soon reveal all.
 
Have you got the standard Norge bars? Also is it a manual screen or electrically operated. The cowls are different. On my manual one you have to remove the screen bolts then there are tabs at the top edge which have to flick out and the whole thing will pull up, allowing access to the multi pin connector which you then disconnect.
My bike has Helibars and makes removal far more difficult as the bars have to be removed too.
 
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