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CARC strip for bearing replacement.

The parts I used were
Carc large bearing SKF 61917 85x120x18mm
Seal 85x110x10 R23 Viton

I'm still not convinced that the C3 bearing is the correct application for a Guzzi CARC. Some of the articles suggest my line of thought could be correct.

A C3 is often stated to be used on an electric motor running at high speed where heat is transmitted though the shaft to the bearing and there would also be the heat generated by the bearing itself adding to the expansion of the bearing components. Constant high temp applications with only rotational forces.

In the CARC there is no heat transmitted to the bearing from the shaft, that's bolted to the wheel, the unit is a long way from the engine, and the oil it's running in is splashed against the casing and cooled, unlike grease. When I've changed the CARC oil I've ridden the bike for 20 minutes or so to get it up to temp for the drain, the CARC oil that comes out is not hot, it's warm, but not what could be called high temp, engine oil, yes. The speed it's running at is low compared to what might be termed a high speed motor. So it's a cooler application not requiring the greater clearance of a C3.

References to C3 usage in gearboxes are not referring to rear differentials on a motorcycle where the CARC bearings are subject to other forces when the bike goes round bends, any additional clearance is going to accelerate wear under these stresses. The CARC bearing is also a wheel bearing.

My bearing failed at 25k miles and was a C3, others were also failing, many before this sort of mileage. Based on the above I reckon a normal clearance bearing is the one for this application and my question was for people to have a look at the failed bearings they take out. It's probably a bit late now as the main failures have probably all been replaced and the opportunity has been missed. Also what have they been replaced with, a C3 or normal?

I'd be interested to know what Pete Roper uses as replacements, he's probably done more than the rest of us put together.

:)
Cheers,
Iain
 
G'day Pete
Thanks for the instructive pictures and instructions.
I had a CARC which was making a road speed related whine and getting worse. The CARC was within the recall numbers, but, I was told that it had been changed at the factory. Obviously not!! The dismantling was fairly straightforward, just requiring the services of a press at the local motorbike shop.
Reassembly seemed to go well but the CARC was noisy, so, a partial re-strip was in order.
I stripped off the right-hand side and the small bearing seemed to be not far enough on the shaft, so, with the aid of a 30mm socket and a 2&1/2 pound hammer on the centre of the small bearing, I attempted to seat it better. No joy!!
I consulted the pictures and found that it looked as though the bearing was seated OK.
On with the right-hand side (after heating to 100C) and re-tighten the 8mm bolts. The right-hand side seemed to go on much better this time.
Made sure that the oil-seal was seated properly.
Result. NO BLOODY WHINE, YOO HOO.
Thanks again Pete.(My nearest agent is 500Km away,)

Cheers
Brian :D :D :D :D
 
G'day iainw
The bearings I removed from the CARC were not C3 bearings the large bearing seemed to be marked FZT or FST. Perhaps this is the mark of the Polish manufacturer.

The bearing seemed reasonable until you found the top of the bearing as installed. Then you would find some roughness.

In my previous post I failed to mention that I surmize that the large bearing initially wasn't bedded in properly on the shaft and so put excess angular load on the bearing/
My attempts to bed the small bearing actually managed to bed in the large bearing properly

The new bearings I installed were:-NTN 61917 and NSK 6306.

Cheers
Brian :D :D :D
 
After my first attempt at replacing the bearings, it seemed that I may have had too much side loading on the 61917 bearing.
I had cloudy oil and very fine particles of metal in the oil.
I ordered SKF bearings locally and the bloke I dealt with (used to work for SKF) insisted that the 6206 bearing should be a C3 bearing?
When I received the bearings I heated the bearings to 110C, one at a time, and they just dropped onto the shaft. When they were cooled, I heated the cases, one at a time, to 110C and they dropped into place neatly. I used 3x 10 mm bolts with the heads cut off, and cut to different lengths, to guide the left hand case on.
I still had what appeared to be bearing noise, but no signs of metal in the oil.
I ordered a new bearing and seal as a BMW part and received a FAG 61917-C3 bearing with 19 balls (the SKF 61917 bearing has 17 balls).
Thoroughly disheartened, I started pulling things apart to replace the bearing, but, when I went to remove the back wheel, it looked to be rubbing a little on the left hand side. I removed the Pyramid Plastics hugger and there were rub marks underneath on the left hand side
Encouraged by this, I put oil in the CARC and went for a test ride, No more "bearing noise", rip a tune Boris!
I am now the proud (and poorer) owner of a 19 ball 61917-C3 bearing and seal for spares!
While I was waiting for the BMW parts, I purchased a single plug in induction hotplate for AU$45.00 delivered.
It does a wonderful quick job of heating the large bearing.
It won't heat the small bearing as it doesn't provide enough load, but, if you were to provide some extra scrap steel, it would heat the small bearing too.
The way induction cookers work is to provide an alternating magnetic field which the produces electric currents flowing in the object. Because the object, steel, and a poor conductor of electricity, the steel heats up trying to resist the flow of electricity.
The induction cookers do not work very well on aluminium or copper pots because they are good conductors.
I have yet to use this hotplate in anger, but, I would use some baking paper to cover it then return it to the kitchen after use (perhaps she won't know it was missing?).

Cheers
Brian
 
Great post...
Unfortunately my CARC has developed a leak which I've tracked down to a cracked hub. Its cracked from one of bolt holes to the inside of the large 110mm seal.

Does anyone know if its possible to remove this part...or do I need to replace it as part of an assembly?

Thanks in advance
 
Not sure which part you are talking about. Take a look at a parts manual in the resource section. If it is listed by part number, it is available. If not, there is a fellow in the Stelvio section that has crashed and will be parting the bike out. You could purchase a complete CARC from him. I believe it will be black, but it is probably good.
 
No part number is listed I'm afraid... The part I mean is the hub the rear wheel bolts into. Hopefully you can see the crack in the photo

I would like to try and rescue what is essential a good carc, but haven't stripped one down before so I'm hoping someone on here will be able to tell me if its doable.
WP 20150608 22 31 16 Pro
 
A shaft sleeve would stop the oil leak. My concern is I wouldn't want to run a hub that is cracked. I'd be worried about a failure of the hub and loss of control. I would work with a dealer on this. I would consider a cracked hub a safety issue that Moto Guzzi should correct.
 
I have seen this before so not a one off, in fact I have said crown wheel and hub sitting in the top of my tool box.

Always wondered when people were posting about continued leaks from the main seal even after a new seal had been fitted if this could nave been the problem.
As John said a Speedi-sleeve maybe a fix.
 
I 'm doing a paint job on the CARC and swing arm.

I therefore took the right hand side case off as described by Pete. I didn't find any signs of wear of bearings. I didn't take the CARC meganism of the RHS case though. This is because I don't have the tools and I hope it's not needed.

THe paint job is almost done and I 'll have to put it toghether again. Can I reasemble it by heating up the RHS case and shove if over the RHS bearing? Or is it needed to take the meganisme out of the FHS casse and put it in the RHS case first, as the workshop manual describes?
 
Going over my bike with the (then still potential) new owner we discovered what seems to be a tiny amount of vertical play on the rear wheel (bike on the centre stand). My knowledge in this area seems to have evaporated, so I couldn't affirm whether this was normal (related to the reaction arm for instance) or indicating a bearing going south.
Bike has 61500km or so (close to 38500 miles) and has mostly been sitting on the centre stand for the last 5 years (with the rear wheel just touching the ground).

Should I warn the buyer?
 
Rene, instead check for side play. Grab the wheel and 9 and 3 o"clock and push pull to check for movement. There shouldn't be any. The vertical movement you noticed could be many things.
 
Do not ever worry about wheel fore/aft movement or sound on the centerstand. Well covered here.
 
Hi, i have a question (better...two questions) about pinion nut & lockwasher.
Watching your photos it seems that lockwasher is not factory-bent in the cave on the nut, in order to prevent accidental loosening, isn't it? I think that's impossible...

The second question is: what's the correct way to reassembly the nut once removed?
It has to be fully tightened or there's a specific preload that will be given to it?

I ask you because in the next days i'd to take off the box to replace the gasket (part #3 in the technical draw in the first post) and that's a good occasion to inspect it.

Thank you in advance.
 
Hi i have replaced the inner carc seal.

Today i've reassembled the carc casing but i was not able to find the correct torque value for the eleven M8 bolts.
According to some similar bolts reported on the manual i assumed something between 20 and 25 Nm.
Someone can confirm? Thank you.
 
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