850T starting issue - short?

[Britcheflee]

So, as suggested I got my meter out, fully charged battery and reconnected - turned on ignition switch and lights came on - then as per usual as soon as I touched any button/switch they went out. Connected negative side of meter to negative battery side and although lights out there is power to lets say the turn signal relay, the relay down by the starter and on all fuse box fuses (apart from the two which I think are lights? - to the left of the box when looking to rear of bike.
However, when I touched the positive lead of the meter to any ground on the bike - even the cylinder heads it shows 12 volts with the ignition switch on, nothing when its off. To me, that indicates I have a short somewhere? Wondering if a wire up in the push button starter on the handlebar is grounding out there?

 

[Trout]

If the battery is two years old or older it is probably bad.
A proper load test is the only way to tell.

When dealing with electrical issues always start at the source: The battery.
A bad battery will show voltage BUT it is amperage (load) that is needed to spin the starter.
A battery with a bad cell may still show voltage but may not allow a "jump" start from another battery or vehicle.

If you are familiar enough with wrenching then try jumping the solenoid at the starter.
If the starter engages & spins the engine the battery is "good enough" for the moment.

The "click click" no start is a common well known issue referred to as "Startus interuptus".
Do a search on this site using that terminology & read up on the way to fix it.

 

[john zibell]

The 850T doesn't have the issue with "Startus interuptus" the small block and CARC bikes have. Your meter reading are really not possible if you are connecting correctly. If you have the negative on the battery negative, and touch the positive to ground that should be no reading as both leads are at a ground point. Please check how you are connecting the meter. Have you cleaned all you connectors as V700Steve suggested in you other thread?

 

[Kevin.NZ]

You could also put the meter across the battery, hopefully read about 12-13 volts with "no load" then attempt to start the bike and observe the voltmeter. If it drops to below 10 volts you need a new battery.

 

[Stevex]

If the battery is two years old or older it is probably bad

Hmm, I'd better go and replace the batteries on the 4 bikes in my garage then as they're all well over 2 years old...damn, and they're running so well

 

[Trout]

Hmm, I'd better go and replace the batteries on the 4 bikes in my garage then as they're all well over 2 years old...damn, and they're running so well

Yep, I've got a stable full of bikes also & some of those batteries are over 2 years old but on average after 50 years of riding I have found out that most "modern" batteries are becoming unreliable between that two & three year period.

When bike batteries were only $35.00 bucks it wasn't so bad but now at $100.00 plus it's cringe worthy.

 

[Amboman]

What do you consider a "modern" battery? A certain type (SLA, AGM) or made within a certain time period? A few of my customers have "Big Crank" (Deka) AGM batteries that have been in service for 7 years, without ever having been on a charger or maintainer. The AC Delco 55-6 in my Ambassador is 13 years old and still cranks the engine "vigorously".

 

[Trout]

I used to use the Deka in the old loop frames & sold them as well, always got good service out of them.

I don't know who makes Auto Zone, Discount Auto Parts, Wal Marts or Bike Master batteries but I have had failures on all of those within 3 years or less. Not just on my bikes.

And before any one asks I do know how to properly fill & charge a battery & the charging system on the bikes was working properly.

Best luck I've had are with Interstate batteries.

Just my experience.