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NGK plug caps...

When I did the valve adjust I closely examined the factory spark plug cap and boot assemblies. I don't see what all the fuss is about, the engineering looks solid and they have a quality feel ?...
 
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When I did the valve adjust I closely examined the factory spark plug cap and boot assemblies. I don't see what all the fuss is about, the engineering looks solid and they have a quality feel ?...

If removed improperly (see threads on this) they develop cracks and you get the spark arcing.
 
If removed improperly (see threads on this) they develop cracks and you get the spark arcing.

Ah, got it. Makes sense due to the angled cap. Think I found the removal method in one of your posts (?...) It was to use a zip-tie and slide it underneath the horizontal part of the cap and move outboard until it's by vertical part of the cap, then gently apply steady pull until they release and lift out of the well. Doing it that way was pretty easy, actually.
 
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Ah, got it. Makes sense due to the angled cap. Think I found the removal method in one of your posts (?...) It was to use a zip-tie and slide it underneath the horizontal part of the cap and move outboard until it's by vertical part of the cap, then gently apply steady pull until they release and lift out of the well. Doing it that way was pretty easy, actually.

Wasn't one of my posts, but it is a good technique.
 
Hi guys, how do you know if you have a failing plug cap, I cannot see any cracks, everything look good.
But i noticed a new tapping noise on the right cylinder, look like that i use more gas and little backfiring, when going high in rpm everything is OK ? any idea ( i did order the NGK caps ) with what i read it could be a plug cap problem ?
 
The cylinder would cut out sporadically or all together. You would see white marks on the cap where it arcs to the cylinder head. Would not cause any engine noise. Still a good idea to change them out as it just adds peace of mind. The original caps can eventually breakdown even being very careful with them.

Are you sure it does not just need a valve adjustment. Clearances get larger (and noisier) on these bikes with tappets as opposed to tighter with shim and bucket.
 
If your Stelvio uses the same NGK CR8EKB (solid terminal) plug as the Norge 8V, then you also need the NGK SD05F caps for their 10/12mm lower gaskets to tightly seal against the plug insulator. Or you could use NGK CR8EK plugs having the threaded terminals matching the NGK SD05F caps.
 
Thanks for your answer, I used at the moment the NGK Iridium CR8EIX, any idea about the plug cap I should use ? thanks again for your help ...(i order the SB05E from NGK)
 
Thanks for your answer, I used at the moment the NGK Iridium CR8EIX, any idea about the plug cap I should use ? thanks again for your help ...(i order the SB05E from NGK)

Depends on if the end is solid terminal or threaded. See Bert's post. I'd say your ordered the correct cap.
 
Apologies if I wasn't clear.

If you use the CR8EKB/4374 plug, then you need to buy four caps, two SB05E (solid terminal, 14mm insulator) and two SD05F (threaded terminal, 10/12mm insulator). You remove the bottom seals from the SD05Fs and put them on the SB05Es to tightly seal the CR8EKB insulator as the original SB05E seals are too big to fit tightly. This is my situation.

If you use the CR8EK/3478 or the CR8EIX/4218 plug, then you only need to buy two SD05F caps because the solid terminal unscrews leaving a threaded terminal with tightly sealed insulator.

The lower seal is a close fit in the spark plug well so use a bit of silicone dielectric grease on the outside as well as the inside. I'm partial to Ford XG-3-A.
 
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