• Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
  • There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.
  • Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
  • Like the new V100, GuzziTech is full throttle into the future! We're now running on an all-new server and we've updated our Forum software. The visual differences are obvious, but hopefully you'll notice the super-fast speed. If you notice any glitches or have any issues, please post on the Site Support section at the bottom. If you haven't yet, please upgrade your account which is covered in the Site Support section or via the DONATE tab above, which gives you full site access including the DOWNLOADS section. We really appreciate every $ and your support to keep this site ad-free. Create an account, sign in, upgrade your account, and enjoy. See you on the road in 2024.

1400 Custom foot peg conversion

groundhog105

Cruisin' Guzzisti
GT Contributor
Joined
Dec 29, 2008
Messages
291
has anyone converted the 1400custom from floorboards to foot pegs. I’m not a big fan of the feet forward riding position.
 
Order all of the parts from the Audace, lower frame rails, peg assys including shift gear and brake lines.
 
Did it without using the lower frame rail

Required a making a mounting plate for the master cylinder and turning up a smaller activating rod.

Needed to whittle some material off the brake lever.

Done this way so I can convert back quickly if needed

Not cheap to do now Guzzi prices have risen

Still not totally happy so
working on a more rearward setup

Upload 2018 9 12 14 15 47

Upload 2018 9 12 14 15 0
 
Last edited:
Did it without using the lower frame rail

Required a making a mounting plate for the master cylinder and turning up a smaller activating rod.

Needed to whittle some material off the brake lever.

Done this way so I can convert back quickly if needed

Not cheap to do now Guzzi prices have risen

Still not totally happy do working on a more rearward setup

View attachment 15604

View attachment 15603

It looks like the pegs are still pretty far forward about the same position of the foot boards. It’s hard to tell from the angle of the picture. Guess I need to go sit on the audace and check out the peg position. I’m looking for positioningbof a standard bike like the 850 T5. My back does not like the cruiser position. I’d hate to have to rid of the 1400 after getting it set up so well and running great.
 
Many years ago I was running a small Auto Parts store in South Jersey.
There was a Vo Tech school that was one of my customers.
Some of those kids were really great at fabrication & could get extra credit for projects.

Here in Florida the University of Florida has a metal working shop that students can use.
Some of the bikes these kids have built are really well done for non-pros.

Might want to check around your area to see if any of that is available.
A good place to ask around is NAPA auto parts stores because a lot of older retired or semi-retired shop owners like to hang out.
 
Many years ago I was running a small Auto Parts store in South Jersey.
There was a Vo Tech school that was one of my customers.
Some of those kids were really great at fabrication & could get extra credit for projects.

Here in Florida the University of Florida has a metal working shop that students can use.
Some of the bikes these kids have built are really well done for non-pros.

Might want to check around your area to see if any of that is available.
A good place to ask around is NAPA auto parts stores because a lot of older retired or semi-retired shop owners like to hang out.

That’s a good idea.
 
Hello......I looked at this topic with much interest as I have pins in both ankles from an old motorcycle accident.
This meant that the floor boards which are standard on the California 1400 would set my ankles at an uncomfortable position.......and if you’re uncomfortable you ride like an escaped circus monkey.

Where as the use of foot pegs would help considerably.......I could sit with the heel of my boots into the foot peg....rotating the foot position a lot easier on the foot peg as opposed to the flat foot boards......so, that’s that then,

A quick search through the parts catalogue showed that the OEM MG Audace parts could be sourced and completely utilised to replace the hangers, levers and foot boards of the C1400....l planned not purchase any lower frame rails only the foot peg assembly and hanger.

I sourced a complete set of Audace foot pegs from some breakers in the USA, the levers came via German breakers and the rest of the assembly was placed on order with my MG parts supplier Gutsibits in the UK. This included the foot peg hangers which bolt to the lower rail, pivot pins, top hat assembly for the bolts and some springs......I intend to use the C1400 link rods on the gear and rear brake along with the hoses although they will ALL need altered, shortened and maybe ....machined

Once everything was together......it was all dry fitted.....some O rings sourced and all ready for the weekend when the exhaust is changed for the GTM full stainless system. No point taking the exhaust off twice......also once the exhaust is off....it will be easier getting access to the linkages.

Images and more to follow next week or so.

Thanks

Gavin
The Scottish Engineer
On an Island in the River Thames
 
Last edited:
Hello......I looked at this topic with much interest as I have pins in both ankles from an old motorcycle accident.
This meant that the floor boards which are standard on the California 1400 would set my ankles at an uncomfortable position.......and if you’re uncomfortable you ride like an escaped circus monkey.

Where as the use of foot pegs would help considerably.......I could sit with the heel of my boots into the foot peg....rotating the foot position a lot easier on the foot peg as opposed to the flat foot boards......so, that’s that then,

A quick search through the parts catalogue showed that the OEM MG Audace parts could be sourced and completely utilised to replace the hangers, levers and foot boards of the C1400....l planned not purchase any lower frame rails only the foot peg assembly and hanger.

I sourced a complete set of Audace foot pegs from some breakers in the USA, the levers came via German breakers and the rest of the assembly was placed on order with my MG parts supplier Gutsibits in the UK. This included the foot peg hangers which bolt to the lower rail, pivot pins, top hat assembly for the bolts and some springs......I intend to use the C1400 link rods on the gear and rear brake along with the hoses although they will ALL need altered, shortened and maybe ....machined

Once everything was together......it was all dry fitted.....some O rings sourced and all ready for the weekend when the exhaust is changed for the GTM full stainless system. No point taking the exhaust off twice......also once the exhaust is off....it will be easier getting access to the linkages.

Images and more to follow next week or so.

Thanks

Gavin
The Scottish Engineer
On an Island in the River Thames
Here’s mine.
994D9F68 D74C 439E ADE3 D936ABC645C5
Can only sympathize, but I find the heel/ toe shifter and floorboards infinitely more comfortable than foot pegs.
 
......and all ready for the weekend when the exhaust is changed for the GTM full stainless system. No point taking the exhaust off twice......also once the exhaust is off....it will be easier getting access to the linkages.

Another (perhaps unexpected) benefit from fitting the GTM full stainless system, is direct access to the rear wheel spindle, making it unnecessary to dismantle the exhaust to allow the rear wheel spindle to be removed.
 
Hello Gavin,
been down that route and have done the conversion.
you don't need the bottom rail but it does make life easier.

I didn't use it but needed to make a plate to mount the master cylinder on and reroute the brake hose.
Also machined a new master cylinder plunger which was shorter.

Upload 2021 11 21 9 18 58
 
Thank you for your input and glad to see that I am on the correct path, rather than trying to re invent the wheel.

Whilst pouring over the parts books....the part number for the lower rail assembly is the same for the C1400, the Audace, the Eldorado and also the MGX21.....so it made no sense to buy anything else other than the hangers, levers and the pegs. The rest of what may be needed could be identified on the dry build of the peg assembly.

Im a bit surprised at having to make a plate for the brake master....but Hey Ho as the Posh Boys say over here.

I liked the idea of the toe and heel but having been used to pegs and levers .....but I chose the path I’m used to.
On the bike I just twist the left foot until it’s comfortable and go from there.......people say it looks odd ....but I’m not looking at it.

Anyway....I will post some images to go with the modifications which include the airbox removal, secondary air pump removal, exhaust and peg conversion

Thanks

Gavin
The Scottish Engineer
 
Yes....I should have said from the off....mine is a 2017 SE edition. On this model, all the lower frame rails match.

I found out to my cost the there are many variations on the SE 2017 model....the shocks are very simplistic and have hydraulic preload on one side only. The fork are a lower standard and seem to be assembled from washers, screwed rod and wishful thinking.......on a plus front ....the handlebars are higher and different pull therefore eliminating the need for the GTM bar risers I bought!

Still.......it’s a project, it has tremendous presence and although built to the rule of accountants and EU commissioners these issues can all be overcome by a bit of re engineering and thought

And I’m getting some pleasure from changing it ....from what it was ...to what it might be andI have found this forum a very good supply of information.

Thanks

Gavin
The Scottish Engineer
 
Last edited:
Rickhinnz........I am guessing that you used the C1400 brake lever? Or did you change both the levers on your modification?
 
I used the complete Audace setup. I am presently changing the setup again using V7 rear sets as I would like the pegs further set to the rear. Once we are out of lockdown I will finally be able to finish things.

Just like you I enjoy setting it up how I want. In other words a typical Guzzi owner.
 
Well.....all went okay with the only issue related to the brake light switch.
All parts fitted with no issues although the gear linkage and brake actuation rod needed tweaked.

Got round the brake switch by not fitting the Audace switch.....4 weeks back order...and used a hydraulic brake switch . These have 2 electrical connectors where Guzzi use 3 on their switches...but it works with no issue other than an unused connector.

NOTE.....edited update.....this is incorrect....I did not realise until testing....the 3rd wire sends a feed to the ECU to switch off the cc if the brake is actuated.....I don’t use cruise control....but someone did!

No significance difference ...maybe 35mm to 50mm on foot position (rearwards) and about 25mm lower....but this is more to do with the foot centring on the peg, rather than resting on the board.

Additional rear position can be achieved BUT not without moving the side stand back (or forward) as well......not sure the juice is worth the squeeze...so to speak.

Anyway....I feel less concerned about my ankles.....and strangely more in control.......it’s all in the mind...but Hey Ho...I’m happy and so are my feet.

Thanks

Gavin
The Scottish Engineer
 
Last edited:
Morning to you....more info.... scraped from under the broken nails of a lifelong modifier!

In the images you can see the offending brake switch.......due to a 6 week back order ...I used a hydraulic switch...but it fed no info to the ECU for the Cruise Control...I dont use CC, but I had to make it 'right'
Therefore the OEM switch from the California was mounted on a small plate and fashioned properly....the ECU now gets a message!

The gear rod and rear brake slave arm were machined.......any further backwards movement will need : the side stand to move forward into the 'old Guzzi position' of almost front left corner of the engine in front of the pegs......and the brake slave cylinder re positioned ..time will tell....if this is needed.

Also in the images you may see the replacement tank side panels now painted to match the 2017 Guzzi Nero black. I still have the origonal tank panels.... should I ever decide a normal existance.

Thanks

Gavin
The Scottish Engineer
 
Last edited:
Now finished and tested.............all good...no issues.

It was raining during the test hence the marks on the exhaust and the mud on the peg!

I am having a slight issue with that SIDESTAND....I may have to re engineer.....the leverage seems wrong to get it to work with your toe!
Anyone else with a similar problem of NOT being able to deploy and set it down ....whilst on the bike?

regards

Gavin
The Scottish Engineer
 
Back
Top