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valve check

whatthe

Tuned and Synch'ed
GT Famiglia
Joined
Aug 21, 2018
Messages
39
Location
pleasanton CA
hello everyone first post and first Moto Guzzi 2016 Eldorado. Will be doing my first valve check soon any pitfalls do I need to have new gaskets on hand. Do the valves usually stay in specs. On reading other parts of the forum it seems some motors need to retorque the heads I did not see this for the 1400 do you guys retorque the heads thanks for any info
 
I've managed to reuse my head cover gaskets several times. Usually a good idea to have some in reserve (just in case). They tell you they are shot (or not torqued up sufficiently) fairly quickly after warm up, by dumping oil all over your leg and down onto the exhaust where they smoke away happily to themselves. I usually leave the cosmetic covers off for the first test ride so I can easily retorque by the side of the road if I have a small leak.

Useful to have an ATV lift to lift the back wheel off the ground so you can rotate the engine in 5th or 6th gear to TDC for each side. I found on my 2016 Audace that there is now a load of Euro 4 emissions stuff in front of the crank bolt which precludes the old method of rotating the engine in neutral with a wrench.

Note also you have to remove at least one spark plug from each side (I go for the middle positioned one) in order to rotate the engine. Valves themselves are easy to adjust and most likely will just need a check the first time as they don't adjust much (but it depends upon how much mileage you do per year). Be very careful re tightening the screws for the head cover (and the cosmetic cover) you need a delicate torque wrench to do it accurately or use the finger tight plus 1/8th of a turn'ish. I tried to use a torque wrench on one some while back but it was too "big" for job and not accurate enough at the lower end.

In addition, I would recommend not putting anti-seize on the threads, as part of the torque ing involves overcoming the inherent friction in the two parts of the thread (head and bolt) and you can easily over torque it if some friction reducing agent is present (which includes oil) - these are quite small delicate threads made of alloy and can strip easily. Fortunately (for me) the screw heads appear to be are designed to snap off rather than strip the thread (or at least that's what happened to one of mine which was covered in oil). I had to use a "grabit screw extractor" to remove what was left of the bolt, but no harm done other than a new screw/bolt.

While you are there, the big heads bolts are easily accessible and you could retorque quite easily, but like you, I've not heard anyone say they needed to do it, although I did check mine.
 
Just adjusted my valves for the first time yesterday (11,800 miles) and all the exhausts were still within specs (.008) but I had to tighten all the intakes back down to .006 as they also were at .008.
 
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