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V7 III - Alternative Engine Oil

Mayakovski

Mayakovski

GT Reference
GT Famiglia
Joined
Dec 17, 2017
Messages
1,145
Location
Comox, BC, CANADA
Hey All;

I am getting ready to dot he end of season oil change and have run into an issue. I cannot find Agip/Eni/iRide 10W60 motor oil available in Canada. AF1 will not ship it to Canada so I am looking for an available alternative.

I have seen Amsoil 10W-60 dirt bike oil listed as a comparable product. That is the only thing I can find.

What do you other Canucks use for engine oil for your V7 III?

Maya
 
+1 on the Motul. Used on my V7ii since new, and she hasn't burned a drop...20,000km
 
Any 10W60 oil to API SG or above. I'm sure the Amsoil would be fine.
Guzzi only specify a specific brand because they have a special deal with that company.
 
Remember that a Guzzi does not have a wet plate clutch so you don't need a bike specific oil.
Oil threads will naturally get a million different opinions.
Personally im using Castrol Edge 10-60 car oil as my local shop sells it and i know if im away somewhere and in need of oil then any country town will have it also.
 
Hmmmmm.
My V7 III owner's manual calls out Castrol motor oil, 10W60
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40995131571_a61850d12a_b.jpg
 
Kevin Ballowe said:
View attachment 15845
Click to expand...
The reason is they are Piaggio and Castrol has partner up therefore Piaggio (Moto Guzzi) recommend them...also believe the new head likes it better too.

older MK1 and MK2 still like Eni due to its higher zinc content..

But as for Western Canadian, Motul is pretty much your best option unless you want to fork out $$$ for Liqui Moly...

I am not sure about Amsoil...but you can try and let us know :p
 
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Hi guys. Just been thinking about why the dealer used 15W50 engine oil in the first service when the manual says 10W60...
Any thoughts? Will call and ask them.
 
Miguel Gomes said:
Hi guys. Just been thinking about why the dealer used 15W50 engine oil in the first service when the manual says 10W60...
Any thoughts? Will call and ask them.
Click to expand...


Some time ago I read an analysis of oil on retaining viscosity. That article showed that 10W60 became thinner than 15W50 in use. That is it's properties for multi viscosity degraded faster than the 15W50 oil. Not sure I can find that article again. There are many articles out there on oil. One states that engines are designed to run on 10 weight oil at ambient temperatures. As the engine temperature increases, the oil thins in viscosity. That is why some time ago (water cooled cars from the 30s to 50s and farm tractors etc.) ran 30 or 40 weight in the summer, then 10 or 20 weight in the winter. Multi viscosity was developed so as not to need to change oil based on the season. Now in a Guzzi I don't think running 15W50 would cause any harm, but to maintain warranty coverage I would use the specified 10W60. We had a V50 several years ago and then 15W50 was the recommendation. I think that was mainly because 10W60 didn't exist then. Also on the hydro lifter engines Guzzi specified 10W40 however I used 15W50 in mine and ran her over 40K miles with no issues. The update wasn't done on the bike until after I sold it so I wonder just how Guzzi comes up with its oil recommendations.
 
basically it means the dealer hasn't read a Guzzi owners,manual in the last 10 years, or attended a service school either.
In Georgia when the car companies went to the 0-20 5/20 oils many of the quick oil change places didn't bring it in and kept with what they had been using. they had to eat a lot of Ford engines because of it.
 
Miguel Gomes said:
Hi guys. Just been thinking about why the dealer used 15W50 engine oil in the first service when the manual says 10W60...
Any thoughts? Will call and ask them.
Click to expand...
What ambient temps have you been riding in? Mid-Summer temps in Portugal might not be good, but Winter temps probably wouldn't do any harm.

ANY reputable brand of 10W-60 Full Synth motor oil will be fine. As someone else has correctly stated, we don't need JASO MA, MA1 or MA2 rated oil. Where I live I can always get suitably rated Penrite and Castrol, so that's what I use. Penrite full synth oils are 100% PAO esters - that makes a difference.

Dino oil will be fine too, but you'll need to change it much more often. Full synth oils are far more stable than dino oils at high temps. Semi-Synth oils are a waste of money. You pay more and get negligible advantage over dino oil.

Btw, much against Castrol's assertion many years ago - "Oils are just oils, Sol" - when it comes to mixing them. If you're way off in the sticks and you need a top up, any engine oil will suffice, in that it'll mix happily with whatever you have in there and get you safely home with no harm done.

I posted this link somewhere else just recently. IT'S A WELL WORTHWHILE READ! If everyone here read this, this would be the last oil thread.
http://www.calsci.com/motorcycleinfo/Oils1.html
 
Yeah, will change the 15W50 semi-synth they used with a full synth 10W60 by my self. Here the temps are around 25-37°C right now, winter drops to 1-5°C as minimum where I live.

By the way, they did the first service 700 km ago (couple of months). Is it ok to reuse the same oil filter? Maybe just take it out to drain the "old" oil...?
 
Just did the oil change, from castrol semi 15W50 to castrol full synth 10W60. I read that you should not top to the max mark, so, as per manual, started the engine for a minute, sopped, waited some seconds and measured the level.

It is on this mark, knob fully tight.

By the way, the finish material on the oil filter holder part looks very bad... It seems that coating particles could mix into the oil.
OilLevel 20200724 181925
 
Miguel Gomes said:
Just did the oil change, from castrol semi 15W50 to castrol full synth 10W60. I read that you should not top to the max mark, so, as per manual, started the engine for a minute, sopped, waited some seconds and measured the level.

It is on this mark, knob fully tight.

By the way, the finish material on the oil filter holder part looks very bad... It seems that coating particles could mix into the oil.
View attachment 20122 View attachment 20123
Click to expand...

Interesting about filter coating.

Now, WRT your "you should not top to the max mark, so, as per manual, started the engine for a minute, sopped, waited some seconds and measured the level. ... It is on this mark, knob fully tight."

1. Concur with keeping (well) below max mark lest you -- as have I and others -- get a puddle in your airbox, followed by oil mucking up your sensors within the TB system, ECU, etc.

2. As for "as per manual, started the engine for a minute," think the manual mentions way more than an idling minute or so, but a full run at road temps, meaning a spirited ride. The purpose of that as I understand it is to get the oil hot enough for gravity to bring it down into the sump (beyond a normal coating) for an accurate measurement. I think that is a useful exercise ONCE just after filling with a known amount ... and NOT the entire sump capacity! Thereafter, I measure it again cold and see the difference. Actually, more than I would have thought, but neither is it dramatic. Then, if no center stand, no need for having machine upright if once measured that way to find its happy spot.

3. As for having the dipstick fully threaded in or resting on the lip, there is an interesting -- and maddening -- difference between what the various OM's and SSM's say for the V& series from I to III. Again, no matter once you find the right level as from then on measure however you want based on the final "correct" reading.

No time to reread for typos, etc. Have to go down to my Moto Grappa and see if I -- yet again -- put too much oil into my Stornello. Sigh. :giggle:

1921!

Bill
 
Miguel Gomes said:
Just did the oil change, from castrol semi 15W50 to castrol full synth 10W60. I read that you should not top to the max mark, so, as per manual, started the engine for a minute, sopped, waited some seconds and measured the level.

It is on this mark, knob fully tight.

By the way, the finish material on the oil filter holder part looks very bad... It seems that coating particles could mix into the oil.
View attachment 20122 View attachment 20123
Click to expand...


if bike is up right a 2x4 will do under the side stand that is plenty bordering on too much.
my v85 has a funky paint job too. i think they didn't prep the parts correctly before painting.
 
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