• Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
  • There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.
  • Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
  • Like the new V100, GuzziTech is full throttle into the future! We're now running on an all-new server and we've updated our Forum software. The visual differences are obvious, but hopefully you'll notice the super-fast speed. If you notice any glitches or have any issues, please post on the Site Support section at the bottom. If you haven't yet, please upgrade your account which is covered in the Site Support section or via the DONATE tab above, which gives you full site access including the DOWNLOADS section. We really appreciate every $ and your support to keep this site ad-free. Create an account, sign in, upgrade your account, and enjoy. See you on the road in 2024.

How does the Breva 1100 oil vapor recovery system work?

JimmyZ1234

JimmyZ1234

Tuned and Synch'ed
GT Contributor
Joined
Jul 13, 2012
Messages
36
Location
Boulder Colorado
Like others have posted, I have some oil in my 2007 Breva 1100 airbox. My B1100 service manual does not mention this system at all except to say the "recovery tank" has to be removed before pulling the airbox.

I'd like to understand the how and why of this system- can anyone explain it?

I see two hoses going from this palstic tank to each cylinder head which I assume are pulling vacumn supplied by the airbox- but why is this needed? And what's that large hose going from the recovery tank to the left side of the engine? Is that pulling oil vapor from somewhere inside the crankcase?

Am I correct in assuming that oil vapor from all 3 sources is supposed to condense in this recovery tank and flow back to the oil pan from the bottom of the recovery tank?
 

Attachments

  • B1100 oil vaper recovery tank image.PNG
    B1100 oil vaper recovery tank image.PNG
    83.1 KB · Views: 34
It is called crankcase ventilation and oil recovery. If you are seeing oil in the airbox you are putting too much in. The factor specification will cause this. Only put about 3.5 liter to 3.25 liter in with an oil and filter change. If you fill to the full mark on the dipstick you will pump oil out to the airbox. Well covered on this forum.
 
On my Breva I removed the pipe that goes to the air-box, blocked off the air-box and I now run it into a separate bottle and very occasionally empty a small amount of oil out. This keeps the air-box dry and more importantly keeps the throttle bodies clean.
 
john zibell said:
It is called crankcase ventilation and oil recovery. If you are seeing oil in the airbox you are putting too much in. The factor specification will cause this. Only put about 3.5 liter to 3.25 liter in with an oil and filter change. If you fill to the full mark on the dipstick you will pump oil out to the airbox. Well covered on this forum.
Click to expand...

Yes, I did see that- thanks. Just wondering about
Kevin.NZ said:
On my Breva I removed the pipe that goes to the air-box, blocked off the air-box and I now run it into a separate bottle and very occasionally empty a small amount of oil out. This keeps the air-box dry and more importantly keeps the throttle bodies clean.
Click to expand...

Hmm- I assume the connection to the airbox was required to pull oil vaper into the recovery tank, so if you're just getting a tiny amount of oil, perhaps that's because there' no vacumn (?).

the how and why of this system.
 
The bottle vents to the outside air, the mist condenses and collects in the bottle and every few thousand K's I tip out about 10ml (into a suitable container) perhaps the crankcase has positive pressure?
 
The connection to the end of the camshaft is even more mysterious. A largish diameter pipe runs from the oil vapour tank/trap to a detachable part of the engine housing in front of the camshaft. The centre of the front of the camshaft is drilled hollow and extends for a distance just before the lobes where a hole is drilled perpendicular with that centre drilling to connect with the inside engine space. I'm guessing this is to remove water vapour from the engine and is a breather system not an oil return.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top