Kevin Ballowe
Tuned and Synch'ed
Assuming that you already have a suitable jack and a tire changer with suitable accessories
FRONT
You will need:
14MM hex key - axle removal
6MM hex key - one pinch bolt
13mm wrench - brake calipers
Shop towels or whatever - to wrap around brake calipers - and a couple cable ties
1. Remove brake calipers , wrap in an old t-shirt, and tie up out of the way
2. Jack up the bike - just enough to remove the tension on the wheel
3. Loosen the only pinch bolt on right side and remove the axle with your 14mm driver bit.
4. Jack up the bike until you can roll the wheel out.
.
.
Helpful hint: Tires will mount better if they are warm.
Cardboard box, shop light, and some blankets for winter.
In summer, I lay them on my asphalt driveway for a while
.
.
.
.
Bake at110 degrees for an hour.
.
.
.
.
This one went easy
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.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
REAR Tire - You will need
Misc wrenches/sockets to remove saddlebags and mufflers
32mm socket - axle nut
14mm hex driver - to hold axle when ya remove that 32mm nut
Rubber mallet - to persuade wheel to remove itself from the hub
5mm hex key - to remove left shock
Grease for drive splines
However you do it - stabilize the front-end before jacking the back side.
.
.
.
1. Remove saddlebags. I also removed the guards. Remove the mufflers.
2. With the front of the bike stabilized, jack the rear of the bike up, just enough to take the tension off of the rear wheel
3. Remove left shock. If yours has a reservoir, you'll have to remove one shock bolt and slide it away from the brake assembly.
4. Tape top of left swingarm to prevent scratching it with the brake assembly.
5. Remove 32mm axle NUT only. Pull axle out just enough to slide the brake assembly up and out of the way.
6. Slide a cloth under the brake caliper assembly and use a couple of cable ties to tie that brake assembly out of the way.
7. Slide axle a little further - just enough - and - remove the wheel spacer - then slide axle all the way back in.
8. Get a rubber hammer n tap the wheel assembly lightly toward the nut (left) side until it separates and clears the hub.
9. Remove axle, then raise jack until you can remove the rear wheel.
Ya might want to tape both sides of the wheel (to prevent scratches) in case it gets away from you during the removal process.
This bike is 5 months off the showroom floor for the first tire change. No grease here.
Clean up rust and coat with a good quality grease
Look at the size of that rim !
Woof. THAT's a fat tire. Bridgestone Battalax BT-020 200/60R-17
All in all, this went very well. The rear wheel even came off of the hub easily.
The front tire change was easy, peasy.
The rear tire change necessitated removing a lot of "stuff". All of this stuff cooperated and there were no surprises.
.
.
FRONT
You will need:
14MM hex key - axle removal
6MM hex key - one pinch bolt
13mm wrench - brake calipers
Shop towels or whatever - to wrap around brake calipers - and a couple cable ties
1. Remove brake calipers , wrap in an old t-shirt, and tie up out of the way
2. Jack up the bike - just enough to remove the tension on the wheel
3. Loosen the only pinch bolt on right side and remove the axle with your 14mm driver bit.
4. Jack up the bike until you can roll the wheel out.
.
.
Helpful hint: Tires will mount better if they are warm.
Cardboard box, shop light, and some blankets for winter.
In summer, I lay them on my asphalt driveway for a while
.
.
.
.
Bake at110 degrees for an hour.
.
.
.
.
This one went easy
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
REAR Tire - You will need
Misc wrenches/sockets to remove saddlebags and mufflers
32mm socket - axle nut
14mm hex driver - to hold axle when ya remove that 32mm nut
Rubber mallet - to persuade wheel to remove itself from the hub
5mm hex key - to remove left shock
Grease for drive splines
However you do it - stabilize the front-end before jacking the back side.
.
.
.
1. Remove saddlebags. I also removed the guards. Remove the mufflers.
2. With the front of the bike stabilized, jack the rear of the bike up, just enough to take the tension off of the rear wheel
3. Remove left shock. If yours has a reservoir, you'll have to remove one shock bolt and slide it away from the brake assembly.
4. Tape top of left swingarm to prevent scratching it with the brake assembly.
5. Remove 32mm axle NUT only. Pull axle out just enough to slide the brake assembly up and out of the way.
6. Slide a cloth under the brake caliper assembly and use a couple of cable ties to tie that brake assembly out of the way.
7. Slide axle a little further - just enough - and - remove the wheel spacer - then slide axle all the way back in.
8. Get a rubber hammer n tap the wheel assembly lightly toward the nut (left) side until it separates and clears the hub.
9. Remove axle, then raise jack until you can remove the rear wheel.
Ya might want to tape both sides of the wheel (to prevent scratches) in case it gets away from you during the removal process.
This bike is 5 months off the showroom floor for the first tire change. No grease here.
Clean up rust and coat with a good quality grease
Look at the size of that rim !
Woof. THAT's a fat tire. Bridgestone Battalax BT-020 200/60R-17
All in all, this went very well. The rear wheel even came off of the hub easily.
The front tire change was easy, peasy.
The rear tire change necessitated removing a lot of "stuff". All of this stuff cooperated and there were no surprises.
.
.
