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Need torque value for the brake disc on a 1994 California 1100

Gappy

Tuned and Synch'ed
Joined
Jan 5, 2019
Messages
30
Location
StLouis MO USA
Out of all the manuals I have on this bike, and the Gregory Bender torque values, I cannot find what to torque the brake disc fasteners to.
 
Hey thanks a lot Steve, in the manuals that I have ,it may show all the parts and how and where they go together but no special instructions on disassembly or assembly, and what the torque values are for the piece you are working on. Maybe a trained Guzzi technician knows this but I don’t. Thanks again. :)
 
Fastening screws for front and rear brake disks(ø8x1,25)

28÷30 Nm + Loctite 270

This is information V11 workshop manual

-KG-
 

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I just torque it up until it feels funny.... just kidding. Given that the bolt is going into aluminum the colour of loctite doesn't matter.
 
I just torque it up until it feels funny.... just kidding. Given that the bolt is going into aluminum the colour of loctite doesn't matter.

Actually Chris I wouldn't use the red (271) but the blue (242). The red would make them extremely difficult to remove. Also with steel into alloy I like a lighter torque with blue loctite applied that Steve recommended. I wouldn't go as high as the V11 manual states. It might be fine for brand new first time, but with age the metal can fatigue.
 
Actually Chris I wouldn't use the red (271) but the blue (242). The red would make them extremely difficult to remove. Also with steel into alloy I like a lighter torque with blue loctite applied that Steve recommended. I wouldn't go as high as the V11 manual states. It might be fine for brand new first time, but with age the metal can fatigue.

When I worked at Tyrell they had a strict protocol about using loctite - you could use the Red or Green stuff only on steel bolts and nuts if specified on the drawing cause it could be a bitch to remove. At one point they put the serious loctite in a locked cabinet to prevent its gratuitous use. Bang with a hammer, heat head to dull cherry, bang head again and pray.

They didn't care about aluminum and magnesium because - at least as it was explained to me - due to the structure of both metals the bond was basically same as the low strength and I have to say I have always found this to be true even using their cleaner and activator.

As you gathered that was a long time ago and maybe they have changed their chemistry and it is no longer the case.

I did find the green wicking stuff to be really useful for fixing porous castings.

I would agree about not torque them to the edge of yield - these are way over engineered for the forces involved to begin with - vibration is probably more of an issue here.
 
Here is the word from Loctite for 271. "Permanent install. Heat to 500 degrees Fahrenheit to remove". http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/t_lkr_red/overview/Loctite-Threadlocker-Red-271.htm

And for 242 "designed for the locking and sealing of threaded fasteners which require normal disassembly with standard hand tools " "http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/t_lkr_blue/overview/Loctite-Threadlocker-Blue-242.htm

This is why I stay away from using the red. I only use the red (271) on something I plan to never take apart again such as cylinder studs.
 
Fastening screws for front and rear brake disks(ø8x1,25)

28÷30 Nm + Loctite 270

This is information V11 workshop manual

-KG-

I checked the V11 workshop again; indeed there read Loctite 270?? (must be mistake) WRILLY DONT USE IT !! WAY TOO HARD
Softer Loctite 243 it`s enough.

I take no responsibility for the wrong text of Workshop manual :oops:

-KG-
 
Sorry about the confusing suggestion: my advice with the red or green is never to use it unless you really have to!

I don't think there are many if any bolts on the Guzzi that really call for high strength or even medium strength loctite. The one place I can think of where something about and beyond what Guzzi does is the exhaust studs and a mechanical locking nut is a better move here. Also loctite PST on the studs and on the through holes in the rear bearing retainer on the engine.

John: in my defence I do remember Lactate at one point did publish a chart and - I may be imagining this -that had break strength torque numbers in different material,s with aluminum being about a fifth of the break strength for red. I googled and couldn't find the chart however I did see Carroll Smith make mention of the different break strength values in his fastener book.

In any case don't use red/green! No need and it is a potential huge pain in the ass - the stuff really works!
 
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