• Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
  • There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.
  • Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
  • Like the new V100, GuzziTech is full throttle into the future! We're now running on an all-new server and we've updated our Forum software. The visual differences are obvious, but hopefully you'll notice the super-fast speed. If you notice any glitches or have any issues, please post on the Site Support section at the bottom. If you haven't yet, please upgrade your account which is covered in the Site Support section or via the DONATE tab above, which gives you full site access including the DOWNLOADS section. We really appreciate every $ and your support to keep this site ad-free. Create an account, sign in, upgrade your account, and enjoy. See you on the road in 2024.

Evap removal from a new V7 II

Larry, not sure of your level of technical aptitude so take no offense if you already understand this: There's a computer on your bike called an ECU (Electronic Control Unit). On that ECU is a piece of software that controls when your fuel injectors spray fuel into the engine, how much they spray into the engine, etc. based on a load of different conditions like engine RPM, load, throttle position, and more. The flash tool is simply the conduit that allows you to copy over that software with updated software that Todd supplies. The decisions Todd makes about what bits of that software to modify to give you better performance are done with the assumption that you have already removed the evap canister and tip valve. If you load Todd's program to your bike and fail to remove the evap canister and tip valve, the new software that Todd has supplied will not work to maximum effectiveness on your bike.

While the evap canister and tip valve serve their purpose as part of the emissions system, it comes at the expense of ride-ability. That evap canister system effectively creates a vacuum leak in your intake system, which is not conducive to performance or smooth riding enjoyment. The removal of that system works hand in hand with Todd's ECU reprogramming. So if you've gone to the trouble and expense of purchasing the flash tool and loading up Todd's software modifications you really should take that last step and eliminate the evap canister and tip valve. It's about a 15 minute job.
Thanks for the quick answer
 
Thanks, what are the indications the the EVAP valve is jammed? I had a recent issue where after a fill up the pick was running very rough and the idle would pulsate between 1000 and 2000 rpm. I opened the filler cap and that seemed to solve the issue. It happened one more time and again opening the filler seemed to resolve it.. thanks
 
That would be fuel going into the evap can through the over flow and tank breather lines, both lines go to the well around your gas cap.
If your valve is plugged you may get pressure in tank or suction in tank.
I've been taking the stuff off as long as Guzzi has been putting it on, 1993 and newer.
 
Last edited:
These gize do a simple, cheap alternative which is completely trouble-free. Stops fuel gushing through if the bike falls over, yet allows pressure to vent on a hot day. Allows unobstructed air to flow into the tank as fuel is used. Best of all - It's completely silent. Product doesn't compete with any of Todd's offerings.

https://www.thirdgear.com.au/parts/fuel-lines/
 
I know this has been discussed ad nauseum but my 2013 V7 is my first modern bike. Attached is a picture of the evap can. Are these the only 2 lines to disconnect and plug? Anything else needs to be done. Thanks.

20190118 1457471
 
Cap the small one and the larger one has a valve on it, don't plug that one, as it goes to the blue/orange tipover valve. Follow lines to where they go.
 
I have removed the brass coupling from the hose that connects the air intake to the charcoal canister, and replaced it with something that completely blocks the hose. Looks stock, but vacuum leak fixed.

For now, I have left the rest of the system intact. Is it correct that the fuel tank will be able to breathe as needed without the vacuum applied to the system? Assuming the tipover/ufo shaped valve is working properly.

I just want to make sure I'm understanding how this thing works.
 
Last edited:
I have removed the brass coupling from the hose that connects the air intake to the charcoal canister, and replaced it with something that completely blocks the hose. Looks stock, but vacuum leak fixed.

For now, I have left the rest of the system intact. Is it correct that the fuel tank will be able to breathe as needed without the vacuum applied to the system? Assuming the tipover/ufo shaped valve is working properly.

I just want to make sure I'm understanding how this thing works.

Just remove the tip over valve. They cause problems. I've been tossing them on all bikes.
 
These gize do a simple, cheap alternative which is completely trouble-free. Stops fuel gushing through if the bike falls over, yet allows pressure to vent on a hot day. Allows unobstructed air to flow into the tank as fuel is used. Best of all - It's completely silent. Product doesn't compete with any of Todd's offerings.

https://www.thirdgear.com.au/parts/fuel-lines/

Thanks for this info. As I understand you are saying this is an alternative to disconnecting this EVAP cannister. Which of the products are you referring to specifically.

Thanks
 
i cant find the cannister EVAP in my V7 II ..i have seen all the photos but i cant see where is located ...can anyone help me? please
 
It is right behind oil drain plug & in front of exhaust crossover.
If you can't find it, maybe someone took it off already.
 
I took some photos ...i have read that in V7 II is under the gasoline tank, is this possible?
Well covered in this thread verbally. V7 II it is between the throttle body intake manifold. Post that picture.
 
Yep, MIA already. I would look on the rubber intake and see how they plugged the port.
Right in center of the fork w/a hose attached or cap on it. Right in front of throttle body.

Edit: looks like that's where it sits.
 
Last edited:
Well covered in this thread verbally. V7 II it is between the throttle body intake manifold. Post that picture.
yes please, can someone post that photo where is possible see the canister?? ...i understand is necessary dismount the tank for make the bypass
 
yes please, can someone post that photo where is possible see the canister?? ...i understand is necessary dismount the tank for make the bypass
Can you post a picture of your bike between the V towards the back on the engine?
 
you mean this?
Almost, that is a photo from below the intake manifold, can you take one from 25 cm straight above this location? In the non-North American market, not all bikes had the evap canister, only 2017+. It looks like yours may not have it.
 
Almost, that is a photo from below the intake manifold, can you take one from 25 cm straight above this location? In the non-North American market, not all bikes had the evap canister, only 2017+. It looks like yours may not have it.
My bike is from europe!, tomorrow i will take the photo
 
Back
Top