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New Owner 1999 Bassa Need Help, in process of restoring

Param

Just got it firing!
Joined
Dec 12, 2018
Messages
18
Location
Moto
Hi
I need help to sort some of the problems regarding Bassa 1999,
Long story short , I been in love with Guzzi for a long time and when one showed in Omaha NE i picked it up
it was in bad shape but not too bad it was runnning and i got it for 900,
i am mostly bringing it back to the original form, sorting wiring etc ,
My recent hurdle is i cant figure out what is this wiring for its been cut but i dont know where it goes or what is this for ??
here are few pics of the resoration and the problem area of the wiring
 

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Looks like the cable to the fuel solenoid - that chrome fitting with the stalk poking out. Two cables in that area are for the fuel gauge and the fuel solenoid. From memory, the red one is for the solenoid. May be it was cut because the PO was going to install a mechanical fuel tap. A normal person would unclip the link near your thumb. It looks like the cable has been pulled from the base of the solenoid.
 
I agree with Mackers. Many owners replace the electric fuel valve with one from a fuel injected CA III which is mechanical.
 
I have a mechanical on my EV, was worried about not opening all the way after 20yrs. I had heard some groaning from the pump, just being sure for no restriction. Pump is next to battery box on L/H side. Power goes to fuse/relay panel. There should be a plug under sidecover for pump loom.
 
Thank you for your replies , I believe its solenoid, confusing part is that fuel solenoid is there and i don't see manual shutoff on it , or any wires coming out out it, it was running when i got it, so fuel is still flowing in current setup
I will check again today, and update everyone
 
Thank you for your replies , I believe its solenoid, confusing part is that fuel solenoid is there and i don't see manual shutoff on it , or any wires coming out out it, it was running when i got it, so fuel is still flowing in current setup
I will check again today, and update everyone

It is hard to tell from your pictures, but it looks like the manual valve may be what you have. Usually to remove the fuel tank you remove the hose to the fuel valve, and not the fuel valve.
 
okay removed the petcock its electronic and looks like wires are just broken
i took it apart as in the pic below and tested by applying 12v there is no movement in the needle, i read an older thread to replace it with manual valve that i have already ordered now MGCycle part GU01105460
please correct me if i am wrong my understanding is its a safety feature to shut the fuel in case of accident?? but i am not fully convinced as power to the valve wont shut until someone manually shut the ignition off

as to why tank was removed it was replaced as previous one was dented /bit rusted

another question
What are all the tank connectors?
one is for fuel return from the T between fuel filter and Tank (under pressure) in Pic marked number 3?
second with two inline valves from the canisters??? in pic marked number 2
third in pic marked number 1 is for??
lastly in pic marked number 4 is for overflow drain??


thank you for your help
IMG 26961 Petcock InkedIMG 2699 LI InkedIMG 2700 LI
 
In your pics, #1 is pressure regulator vent--- stays open, no line
#2 is vent from tank----line to bottom of bike
#3 is return line spigot----line from injector rail
#4 is tank lid overflow vent-----line to bottom of bike
 
thank you for the information saves me a lot of time
Also where can you find nice decals for bassa ?
 
Sorry for late replies been busy with other stuff,
opened the sump, did managed to get enough pull on my current 5mm allen, need a long reach one,
nastly surpise had some water in it frozen(it was very cold in midwest) about a fist size oil was worse i have seen,
i saw the clamp on the filter and i had some reads on the forum for this habit, so previous owner must be familiar to this site/forums

cleaned the sump and sent for powder coating, it will be black beauty the amount of powder coating i have done on it.
drained the final drive fluid ,
transmission fluid next

Question is it okay to have T in number 2 and 3 tank drains, i dont see any reason why not?
Question why would a clamp around the oil filter prevents the slipping/unscrewing. there is ample room between the outer oil filter cylinder wall and inner screw with the filter paper inside, the clamp will be just on the metal outside and it would not insert pressure inside and if it does it will only affect the filter paper element, please forgive me i am an software engineer hence all the questions

i have 3 bikes ducati yamaha and now guzzi, i must say moto guzzi has some kind of pull to it or may be its just me justifying another project :)
Thank you again for all this help, cant wait to fire it up
 
You only have one drain near the filler. The other is a tank vent. No need to have a Y connector. As to the clamp, those have been put on since before Al Gore invented the internet. Proper placement places the screw part of the clamp against the oil pressure relief valve so the filter can't unscrew. Has nothing to do with the filter internals.
 
that makes perfect sense. thank you
I will paste more pics soon. thank you
 
Param, here's a pic I took many years ago of my Metal Stone. The filter can't unscrew because the clamp boss is against the pressure relief valve.

GW445H336
 
LOL! After all these years I learn something new.
I used to have nightmares(exageration) about the filter coming loose after every oil change.
 
Wait one cotton picking minute. Is this motor set up with a spin on filter inside the sump?

You have to drop the sump for an oil change?

Or is it more like and VW Beetle? No filter from factory, just some kind of screen, and the filter is an upgrade?

I'm so confused!!!
 
Wait one cotton picking minute. Is this motor set up with a spin on filter inside the sump?

You have to drop the sump for an oil change?

Or is it more like and VW Beetle? No filter from factory, just some kind of screen, and the filter is an upgrade?

I'm so confused!!!

Filter is in the sump from the factory. Usually change the filter every other oil change. You can do it every change if you want. 14 screws and 4 bolts to drop the pan. Be sure to not over tighten any on install.
 
+1 John, It's only been since 1997 that we've had access from the bottom, even then you had to unscrew a plate, 05 came under Breva11.
 
+1 John, It's only been since 1997 that we've had access from the bottom, even then you had to unscrew a plate, 05 came under Breva11.

T3 and forward have the internal filter. As you say the 97 1100 sport has an access cover you can remove to get to the filter. All the others until the CARC it is drop the pan.
 
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