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Rear Caliper Question

pokeyjoe

High Miler
Joined
Sep 1, 2012
Messages
746
Location
Long Beach, California
I was cleaning off the bike today and noticed that the bleeder is on the bottom of the caliper. To bleed the brakes, do I remove it and flip it over? I've done it before, but never on a vehicle that was designed that way.
 
No need, just hook a drain line to it, and bleed normally.
 
pokeyjoe said:
GT-Rx said:
No need, just hook a drain line to it, and bleed normally.
That's fine for a flush, but what if there's air in the caliper or in the line?

Did a bunch of maintenance on our V7 this past week. I ended up having to empty the rear brake line because I messed up the master cylinder. I guess when I loosened the bolts to the m/c (to get the shield out of the way) so I could replace the trans fluid, I moved the plunger a bit too much and it dislodged a seal inside the m/c.

removed it, took it apart, fixed it, reinstalled it, and filled the brake line back up. Bleeding all the air out was no problem with the nipple on the bottom.
 
DeeG said:
Did a bunch of maintenance on our V7 this past week. I ended up having to empty the rear brake line because I messed up the master cylinder. I guess when I loosened the bolts to the m/c (to get the shield out of the way) so I could replace the trans fluid, I moved the plunger a bit too much and it dislodged a seal inside the m/c.

removed it, took it apart, fixed it, reinstalled it, and filled the brake line back up. Bleeding all the air out was no problem with the nipple on the bottom.
Good to know. Thanks for the post.

I may end up flushing mine soon. Why does the fluid on a brand new bike look so dirty?
 
I realize this thread is very old. I've had the horrible mistake of not checking my bolts on the rear caliper. The caliper ultimately fell off the bike. Luckily I did not wreck either. It's scuffed pretty good. The mounting holes/threads show no damage either. The hose and banjo bolt were still attached. It appears the bleeder(?) maybe got broken off when it fell? I'm guessing that will need replaced/drilled out? Does this caliper need replaced? Or is it a matter of put it back together and test first? And dealing with the scuff marks.
Thx,
Roose
Banjo Bleeder
 
If you can get the bleeder out (left handed drill bit or easy out) The bleeder shouldn't be in very tight. The caliper should be OK to use. A little black paint will hid the scratches. To get the air out when bleeding, Invert and place something about the thickness of the rotor between the pads when bleeding.
 
Thx for the words. Gives me some peace of mind. Hope my local dealer has that part.
 
Thx for the words. Gives me some peace of mind. Hope my local dealer has that part.
I would think any local automotive parts store should have it for around a dollar. And check the rest of the bike over before you lose a tire or handle bars next.
 
That's fine for a flush, but what if there's air in the caliper or in the line?
When I installed a new rear caliper on my V7II, I had to turn the caliper so that the bleeder was on the top in order to thoroughly remove all the air. Also, I found that vacuum bleeding was needed to fill a new caliper. With pressure bleeding, the pistons move out of the cylinders enough to trap air in the cylinders. With vacuum bleeding, the pistons are sucked to the dead end of the cylinders and expel the air from the cylinders. YMMV.
 
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