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Help with troubleshooting getting 2014 V7 Racer up and running again.

danielgies

Just got it firing!
Joined
Apr 22, 2016
Messages
3
Location
Oakland
Hey all,

So... about a year ago, I took a bad spill on my 2014 V7R that put it out of commission for a while. Long story short, the front wheel ultimately dropped into a hole which caused the bike to stop dead, I did a flip over the bars while the bike did a cartwheel behind me, landing flat and hard on its side.

The total damage was that the (aftermarket) headlight/bucket was destroyed, the exhaust system was destroyed, one rear shock was snapped in half, the front tire and tube were pierced., and some other mostly cosmetic or simple replacement part stuff. I think the fork seals are toast, but I can deal with that for a moment.

So, the bike sat for about a year and in that time, I slowly replaced all the things damaged and listed above as well as gave it a valve adjustment (its first one ever) and replaced the plugs, etc. I got some ultra cheap mufflers just to get them on and running before I invested in something better since they're a pretty simple replacement after the fact and I was curious what the v-twin sounded like with not as much on the pipes, not being interested in going back to the too-quiet stock cans. I also siphoned out the year-old fuel and filled it back up today and got a fresh battery in it.

Now... it has a real hard time starting up at all, popped and sputtered a few times... and it almost sounds like now only one cylinder is firing, (it's a little difficult to tell because the sound is already so much louder and different from what I've been used to). Additionally, it won't idle, just immediately dies out when I let off the throttle, and as soon as I shift it either way from neutral to 1st or 2nd, it immediately dies out and does't respond to the throttle at all.

I referenced a youtube video for the clearances for the valve adjustment of the same year/model and it took a pretty large adjustment that made me second-guess its validity... and now when I run it, it sounds ultra-clicky, far more than before it wrecked...

One thing I realized I forgot about as I write this up was to reconnect the vapor recovery system below since the nipple snapped off the filter after my first attempt at gluing it back on, but I wasn't sure if that would be the culprit of the relatively severe symptoms. Also, the 10V fuse was popped at some point but that's been replaced.

I'm going to reconnect the vapor recovery and potentially reevaluate the valve adjustment as my first steps... but any other input would be greatly appreciated!

Also, if anyone knows off hand, undeniably true clearance values for the intake/exhaust on a 2014 V7R, that would help too...
 
Valve clearances are: 006" intake and 008" exhaust as it lists in the manuals or metric .10mm and .15mm. Better a bit loose than too tight. I'm attaching a guide that I use. Good luck getting her back on the road. A bike doing a cartwheel is a pretty significant crash, have you checked the frame for cracks and such? Forks bent? If you had done an insurance claim they probably would've totaled it.
 

Attachments

  • ValveAdjustment.pdf
    1.1 MB · Views: 10
There is a saying about throwing good money after bad.
May want to heed the advice in the above posts.
 
I've done thorough investigation of the frame and fork and I have not found any cracks or bends/asymmetry. The exhaust one the side took a majority of the hit, which pretty much just crumpled it into the shock and snapped that. The only other thing that concerned me that was making certain was the front wheel still being true, but that turned out fine. I have completely replaced the damaged parts thus far and it's come pretty far, I refuse to believe it's a lost cause quite yet.

I'm primarily just curious as to why shifting into 1st or 2nd would cause the bike to die out and immediately not respond to throttle...

Thank you for the valve-adjustment PDF, it's far more concise than what I was originally using. Now I'm just waiting for a new charcoal filter since there's likely no way for that nipple to stay glued back on with the pressure of the tubing.
 
I'm primarily just curious as to why shifting into 1st or 2nd would cause the bike to die out and immediately not respond to throttle...

May be a faulty side stand switch. If bike goes into gear and you ease out the clutch the side stand switch may be reporting the side stand is down and that will kill the engine.
 
May be a faulty side stand switch. If bike goes into gear and you ease out the clutch the side stand switch may be reporting the side stand is down and that will kill the engine.

Ah ha! Good call... The aftermarket mufflers I put on don't quite have the same upwards angle that the stock ones had, which doesn't allow the side stand to quite rest in the same place, perhaps it's simply not going high enough to disengage... Thank you! I had completely forgotten about that being a thing since I've been riding a 77 Honda in the interim.

I would love to simply disable that switch...
 
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