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Stelvio Canister Quick Disconnect

leafman60

Cruisin' Guzzisti
Joined
Jan 7, 2009
Messages
219
Location
Pensacola, FL
My Stelvio has turned 10,000 miles and generally runs great. I have, however, noticed some seemingly intermittent issues with starting, idling and off-idle transition. I decided to disconnect the evaporative canister to see if that would help. It did.

The evaporative canister system is designed to capture gas fumes from the tank and hold them in the canister for the vacuum of the throttle bodies to suck out and circulate back into the intake system. A simple canister system will have a vent hose from the tank to deliver the fumes to the canister, a vent hose from the canister to vent any spare fumes or liquid fuel to the ground and a vacuum line from the throttle bodies to the canister to remove the fumes. Some canister systems have a electrical solenoid valve that opens and shuts the vacuum lines to better control the affect of the tap into the throttle bodies.

Apparently, the canister tap into the intake system on the Stelvio is upsetting the idle mixture and causing the issues I've noticed.

After disconnecting the canister my bike starts better, idles better and throttle response from idle is much better.

Scott has already provided a very good guide to disconnect and complete removal of the system-

https://www.guzzitech.com/forum/221/9202.html

I didn't want to take the time for all of that just yet. I wanted to simply disconnect the system and test it. I can come back later with the tank and dash removal.

All that is necessary is to remove the vacuum lines attached to the banjo fittings at both throttle bodies and to make sure the tank has a good vent. The entire opertion took maybe 15-20 minutes.

I simply used some long neoprene vacuum caps, ties and a piece of hose.


Remove the vacuum line from each intake and replace with a cap and nylon tie for good sealing. I didnt even remove the banjo and the long cap fit over the tubing insert (modulator valve?) that protrudes out from the banjo fitting. You could also connect a single hose from one intake tap to the other.


The removed vacuum line can then be stuffed out of sight up behind the manifold. May be a good idea to plug these leftover hoses to keep bugs out.


That's probably all that needs to be done but I wanted to be sure the tank had a good vent and that the canister did not inhibit that.

I easily removed the rear tank cover and replaced the stock vent line connection (the riders right side) with a short piece of hose.


I routed the hose down by the shock absorber. Job complete.
 
I did this mod last night. It really did improve the idle quality and smoothed out the lower rpm throttle a bit. I'm starting to realize how good the stock mapping is for an EPA approved engine. It's really quite smooth in the lower rpm range which is uncommon.

The beauty of doing it this way is if you don't like it, or want to put it back to stock for warranty or ??? reasons, it's only a few minutes of effort. I zipped tied the lines near the banjo connections to the long rubber caps I used to keep them from flopping around.
 
If you ever think you may want to hook back up, plug all the lines that you leave un attached, otherwise you will suck junk into the engine or have a blocked vent later, when you re install,
Mine had a full removal and yes it does help. connecting the two ports seems to work better than just plugging, but the difference is subtle, you can see the difference in the afr trims on an autotune, the same bike plugged or connected.

What really helps smooth these bikes is getting 100% real 93 octane, the ethanol really makes a difference! The PCv Trim tables really show it as well as the idle.
 
Great info. I was just about to tackle the Canister removal but will remove it when I take the tank the tank off for a planned Rostra Cruise control install when the warranty expires.
 
A word of serious caution here. The original vent tube runs up along the right hand side of the bike and follows the down tube on the right hand side of the bike, specifically to place it out of alignment with the rear tire. What you have done, is set a drain and attached it to the shock which is directly in the centerline of the rear tire. In the event of a full fuel tank and a quick launch, or a overfill at the gas pump, there is a very real chance fuel will enter the line and be deposited directly in the path of the rear tire. Nothing slides a tire like gasoline. FWIW.
 
Very Good point Scott. I just did my delete but removed the whole system. I used the existing hoses ( once removed)and tied the Throttle bodies together and ran the vent tube down to the same location as stock for that very reason.
 
Anybody remove the canister and hoses from a 2010 Stelvio (4.5 gal. tank)? I got started and I'm about to removal all the panels and gas tank. I tend to over do things so I thought I check in to see if there are short cut. I did my Breva wasn't too difficult with most everything towards the rear.
 
I have a 2015 Stelvio. What happens if you just cap off the to TBs at the banjo fitting, plug the canister hoses, and leave the factory vent in place? When the bike is hot (summer), stop and go traffic, the bike wants to die at idle. Then I smell gas fumes...
 
Quick question, I just went to buy what I need to disconnect the canister..the way "Leafman60" explain,
Does the bike will need any kind of adjustment ? thanks for your help
 
Quick question, I just went to buy what I need to disconnect the canister..the way "Leafman60" explain,
Does the bike will need any kind of adjustment ? thanks for your help


Shouldn't need any adjustments if everything else is stock. However, they aren't mapped all that well from the factory. Todd's mapping would be an improvement.
 
Not sure why I waited so long to do it ! it is like if you have a new bike mostly at low rpm, you can really feel a difference.
I am in Canada, went to Lordco to buy all the necessaries, it cost me $9.
Thanks again John and leafman60
 
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