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Who's Adjusted the Valves on the New Cali?

Fast - Thanks for the tip. I have the same lift in my garage in storage for a friend. Tried it and had the front raise as you said. I hooked a couple tiedowns to the ceiling and pulled it level for the first tire change. Last one I just put it on my Handy Lift and blocked it up. worked good for the front though. :)

Guzzi Lou - I had them in right side up as I noticed the grooves and reinstalled as they came out. As for the plug gap I see Guzzi recommends 0.024 - 0.028" (0.61 - 0.71mm). That is the gap of most old points and condenser Hondas. Almost anything with a newer ignition uses 0.032" (0.81mm) or better. I noticed my original plugs were at 0.040" (1.02mm) or slightly more at 11,600+ miles. I pulled the new ones out of the box and they were at 0.035" (0.89mm). I figure NGK knows what the gap should be and they had the little cardboard tube to prevent them from getting "readjusted" in transit and they were all the same so I left them there. My trust in Moto Guzzi manuals is lacking a bit. Bear in mind I do not have the manual with me now so my metric conversions may be off a few hundreths of a mm from the manual.
 
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Thanks for that confirmation abbienormal, the c1400 service manual calls for a SP gap of .6-.7mm (.024"-.028").
If NGK ships them at .035" (.89mm) that is quite a bit difference, I set mine at .65mm, .9mm is almost one-third more open that what the manual calls for. Wonder what other motor uses the NGK LMAR8F, if any ?
I will have to re-gap them to the .9mm spec and see what that does for gas mileage, spark knock, etc. I have been getting between 40 and 45 mpg since new, now has 7K of spirited riding on the clock.
F1400
 
No, not for the black rubber stuff. Really depends on the mileage. I just replaced a customers on a Stelvio at 35K mi cause it was showing seepage but not dripping. I wipe them off so they are oil dry w/brake clean, same w/the groove on cover & head surface they meet. Clean very lightly as not to stretch the gaskets.
 
Did a (first on this bike)valve adjustment and gapped plugs yesterday. Have owned many solid liftered bikes and cars, still had to study for where the feeler gauge goes. All were a little tight except left intake which were loose. Plugs were .40. Set things right bumped the starter and saw immediate improvement.
Spark plug gap on new plugs are never to be assumed as correct. Have 50+ yrs wrenching, have put in probably 1000's of plugs out of the box correct maybe 20%.
2nd gear required 3-4 feet of space to roll through TDC twice, remember compression stroke is every other stroke. Just SET a longer Phillips screwdriver in the center plug hole. Was really easy to determine TDC.
 
Did a (first on this bike)valve adjustment and gapped plugs yesterday. Have owned many solid liftered bikes and cars, still had to study for where the feeler gauge goes. All were a little tight except left intake which were loose. Plugs were .40. Set things right bumped the starter and saw immediate improvement.
Spark plug gap on new plugs are never to be assumed as correct. Have 50+ yrs wrenching, have put in probably 1000's of plugs out of the box correct maybe 20%.
2nd gear required 3-4 feet of space to roll through TDC twice, remember compression stroke is every other stroke. Just SET a longer Phillips screwdriver in the center plug hole. Was really easy to determine TDC.

It is much easier if you remove the rubber plug at the front of the motor and use the nut on the end of the crank to turn the engine over.
 
To each their own.
Had to remove plugs and valve covers already. Don't know know how it could possibly be any easier. I don't think I could have gotten to that nut in the 30 seconds it took to find TDC. But that's just my take on it.
No jack, no flash light, no extra tools, no bending over. Sit on bike, place long shank Phillip's in top plug hole, bump into 2nd, roll bike forward till screwdriver comes up then look at rockers -if both valves are closed-wiggle bike back and forth for true TDC.
 
Just completed a waste of time valve adjustment (none of them needed adjusting). Was pretty simple.
Anyone else find the valves to not even need adjusting after you get into the job?
 
Just completed a waste of time valve adjustment (none of them needed adjusting). Was pretty simple.
Anyone else find the valves to not even need adjusting after you get into the job?
Same with my bike, from now on I will check the vales every 20000 km.
 
Was going to say... First two (attempts at adjusting) adjustments, only moved one valve on the second adjustment. About to come up on my third, will be interesting. Still running on original plugs, as they've looked fine both times so far. Gap was within reason both times... FWIW...
 
so - did the first valve check/adjust myself from new (they were a little loose), also did the 2nd at 10,000km and they didn't need adjusting. Did them again yesterday at 19,000km after a longish 2 week ride/vacation. Only 1 exhaust valve (top right) was tight. I kinda knew something needed adjusting as it was not idling well when first starting in the morning, ran rough when you blipped throttle and hiccuped down the road, almost sounded like one cylinder was not happy, until the warmed up properly (gaps get bigger as bike warms up), so the bike kinda tells you when the valves as tightening up with mileage.
 
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