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Spark Plug change - special tool?

You need a 14mm socket with a thin wall.

I can recommend either
JTC-4730 14mm Socket 12pt (leaf spring)
or Schwaben 14mm 12 point Magnetic Plug Socket @ Sears

I used both.
 
I can't remember if I used a standard socket on mine or a spark plug one but it was something that was in my craftsman portable set.

I think I used the standard 14mm socket.
 
I am planning on changing my spark plugs for the first time soon. Will I need any "special tool" to get to the plugs?

I have used this "trick" for years on a variety of aluminum head engines...
1. Use whatever socket set you have that fits to just break the spark plug loose in the threads. the threads on the 1400 are the smallest I have ever dealt with. They are small in diameter and quite fine. As deep as they sit down in the head it is all too easy to cross thread these using the average 3/8 socket set.
2. Once the plug is a couple of turns loose, remove the socket and push a length of 3/8 fuel line down onto the plugs top electrode, and push it down as far as it will go. Then "unscrew" the plug using the fuel line. if something starts to go wrong, you can feel it, before any damage is done to the threads in the head.
3. Installation is the reverse, using the fuel line on the new plug to start the threads in the hole, AFTER putting a dab of copper anti-seize on the threads. once the new plug is screwed down, pull off the fuel line and torque the new plug with the socket set of you choice.
Good Luck
Kirk
 
I have used this "trick" for years on a variety of aluminum head engines...
1. Use whatever socket set you have that fits to just break the spark plug loose in the threads. the threads on the 1400 are the smallest I have ever dealt with. They are small in diameter and quite fine. As deep as they sit down in the head it is all too easy to cross thread these using the average 3/8 socket set.
2. Once the plug is a couple of turns loose, remove the socket and push a length of 3/8 fuel line down onto the plugs top electrode, and push it down as far as it will go. Then "unscrew" the plug using the fuel line. if something starts to go wrong, you can feel it, before any damage is done to the threads in the head.
3. Installation is the reverse, using the fuel line on the new plug to start the threads in the hole, AFTER putting a dab of copper anti-seize on the threads. once the new plug is screwed down, pull off the fuel line and torque the new plug with the socket set of you choice.
Good Luck
Kirk

Kirk,

Thanks. I have been removing and starting spark plugs in this manner whenever the well is deep enough that I can't use my fingers directly on the plug.
 
I have used this "trick" for years on a variety of aluminum head engines...
1. Use whatever socket set you have that fits to just break the spark plug loose in the threads. the threads on the 1400 are the smallest I have ever dealt with. They are small in diameter and quite fine. As deep as they sit down in the head it is all too easy to cross thread these using the average 3/8 socket set.
2. Once the plug is a couple of turns loose, remove the socket and push a length of 3/8 fuel line down onto the plugs top electrode, and push it down as far as it will go. Then "unscrew" the plug using the fuel line. if something starts to go wrong, you can feel it, before any damage is done to the threads in the head.
3. Installation is the reverse, using the fuel line on the new plug to start the threads in the hole, AFTER putting a dab of copper anti-seize on the threads. once the new plug is screwed down, pull off the fuel line and torque the new plug with the socket set of you choice.
Good Luck
Kirk
Thank you very much for your post. I just did a change on my V7 III stone and found that the sparkplug socket what not long enough to remove it all the way. I posted a video on how to do it with a little fiddling, but your suggestion is much, much better than mine and will upload an improved version using your technique soon. I presume you don't mind. Also I just can't figure out why the maintenance manual requires that plugs be changed every 6K miles. Seems to be way over kill to me. Even my old two stroke Kawasaki only needed replacement every 12K miles. Pulling the plugs confirmed my suspicion. They were still perfect at 6K miles. But alas, to keep my warranty in good stead, I will replace them every 6K miles for two year and then go back and use the old plugs. Same goes for the air filter.
 
I have used this "trick" for years on a variety of aluminum head engines...
1. Use whatever socket set you have that fits to just break the spark plug loose in the threads. the threads on the 1400 are the smallest I have ever dealt with. They are small in diameter and quite fine. As deep as they sit down in the head it is all too easy to cross thread these using the average 3/8 socket set.
2. Once the plug is a couple of turns loose, remove the socket and push a length of 3/8 fuel line down onto the plugs top electrode, and push it down as far as it will go. Then "unscrew" the plug using the fuel line. if something starts to go wrong, you can feel it, before any damage is done to the threads in the head.
3. Installation is the reverse, using the fuel line on the new plug to start the threads in the hole, AFTER putting a dab of copper anti-seize on the threads. once the new plug is screwed down, pull off the fuel line and torque the new plug with the socket set of you choice.
Good Luck
Kirk

In the absence of a fuel line, I've always found the wedging some kitchen roll/paper tissue into the end of the spark plug socket and pushing down slightly on the plug (once it's unscrewed) will create enough of a grab to pull up the plug when removing
 
Also I just can't figure out why the maintenance manual requires that plugs be changed every 6K miles. Seems to be way over kill to me.
I agree, the std plugs are good for more than 10,000Km, but not a lot more. There's a noticeable improvement with new plugs at 10,000Km. However, why don't you get some NGK CPR8EAIX-9 Iridium plugs and do them every 100,000Km - that'd be about 60,000miles. I haven't done anywhere near that mileage on my iridiums in my Gutz, but my other vehicles/bikes suggest that 100,000Km is an easy expectation. I had a Hyundai with 230,000Km on a set of iridium plugs and it never missed a beat. ALL my petrol engined vehicles get iridium plugs at their 1st service.
 
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