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CARC Leak

freshbreva

Tuned and Synch'ed
GT Contributor
Joined
Oct 5, 2013
Messages
48
Location
Palm Desert, California, US
I've got crud flipped on the right side of the rear wheel of my Breva 1100 again. First time it happened I thought it was just some "extra" grease that flew out after some higher speed hwy riding. This time it looked very wet at the bottom of the final drive. I removed the rear wheel and took the attached photo. The center of the drive looks wet, but it actually has a sort of sparkly, sandpaper kind of surface that's dry. The wetness begins outside the machined surface with the threaded holes for the lug nuts. The wetness mostly shows at arrow #1. There is a little bit of output from the breather valve (#2) but not nearly as much.

I'm looking for a good source (maybe someone here, or a manual doc) with detailed instructions on replacing seal(s), if that's what's called for. I've seen threads here describing what I think was the same problem, but no how-to on repairing. The MG manuals I've downloaded have nothing about this kind of repair.

Thanks,
Ron

CARC
 
Bad seal, replace it. It also looks like you baked that seal in an oven. Also check the part where the wheel bolts for any imperfections that may have caused the seal to fail.
 
Check that there is no play in the wheel support bearing. Guzzi bean counters insisted on cheap inferior bearings being fitted. Got mine done under warranty on the Norge after a "discussion". When the big bearing came out, it was so worn that the balls just fell out.

There is a seal for a BMW which is the same diameter but 2mm narrower, and is much cheaper than the Guzzi one.
 
Never bother with part numbers for seals, go by the size.
Got it the wrong way round, the guzzi one is the narrower.
Guzzi is 85x110x8 and the BM one is 85x110x10 and is a more common size. But I am told it still fits. Any bearing stockist should be able to supply. Tell them the application so they know which type of seal you need. But the Guzzi part number is 90408511.

Just dig out the old seal with a flat blade screwdriver and press in the new, tapping lightly all the way round with a light hammer until it's fully seated, couldn't be more simple. Yes you do have to remove the wheel of course.
 
I also work on BMWs, the part you are looking for is :

33 12 7 663 482 SHAFT SEAL - 85X110X10 $44.94

It is for the R1100 oil heads.
 
Brian UK wrote:
Just dig out the old seal with a flat blade screwdriver and press in the new, tapping lightly all the way round with a light hammer until it's fully seated, couldn't be more simple. Yes you do have to remove the wheel of course.
Brian, I did the above then looked more closely at the old seal. I found a sort of spring collar in it that I could pull out with my fingers. Egad -- was I supposed to transfer that to the new seal before installation? Maybe the new one had one, too, and I just didn't look closely enough. Did you notice this?
 
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