Evap removal from a new V7 II

[sib]

I can't understand why anyone would want to remove a device that doesn't impact performance in any way and may even have positive effects by recovering fuel that would otherwise be lost to evaporation and preventing atmospheric water vapor from being absorbed by the fuel in the tank. I've owned my V7II for 4 years and 30,000 miles, and the evaporation recovery system has been reliable and problem free. I'll keep it on until I experience a problem with it.

 

[GTM®]

Pic below from a N.A. 2016 V7 II Stone for @Dave morillo ibz
@sib - it is a poorly engineered intake air leak, and the tip-over valve (which is part of it) fails and causes extreme tank pressure in which the fuel pump can’t overcome. There are much better solutions outside of what was done for cost purposes. All I care to add here. To each his own.

 

[Dave morillo ibz]

Pic below from a N.A. 2016 V7 II Stone for @Dave morillo ibz
@sib - it is a poorly engineered intake air leak, and the tip-over valve (which is part of it) fails and causes extreme tank pressure in which the fuel pump can’t overcome. There are much better solutions outside of what was done for cost purposes. All I care to add here. To each his own.

View attachment 17354

thank you for the picture, because i never saw in any thread of the forum despite find any information. It seems my bike dont have that canister. Tomorrow i will call Moto Guzzi Official for confirmation that in Europe we dont have it.

 

[GTM®]

thank you for the picture, because i never saw in any thread of the forum despite find any information. It seems my bike dont have that canister. Tomorrow i will call Moto Guzzi Official for confirmation that in Europe we dont have it.

Welcome, and I suspect you don't have it. It was for North American bikes only as I understood it, until 2017 V7 III, then it is a global delivery.

 

[Dave morillo ibz]

thank you for the answers!

 

[asoces]

I have removed the brass coupling from the hose that connects the air intake to the charcoal canister, and replaced it with something that completely blocks the hose. Looks stock, but vacuum leak fixed.

For now, I have left the rest of the system intact. Is it correct that the fuel tank will be able to breathe as needed without the vacuum applied to the system? Assuming the tipover/ufo shaped valve is working properly.

I just want to make sure I'm understanding how this thing works.

Just in case anyone else is wondering... the fuel tank breathes/ventilates properly even if the vacuum line is disconnected/blocked on the evap system. I’ve been checking for pressure/vacuum in the tank for 4 fill-ups and all is well (for as long as the tip over valve keeps working properly, anyway).

 

[Sean_Kelly]

Hey all,

The other day I was riding on the freeway and after heavy throttle to overtake a car, the bike died while I was coasting (at about 75mph). Not an issue, just put into neutral, fired it back up and continued my ride.

Once I got to my destination, I came back out about an hour later and went to ride home home, but the bike was acting like it wasn't getting enough fuel when I'd twist the throttle. I opened it wider and rev'd it a few times and was able to make it home after that, though it sounded like it was running rough the rest of the way home.

I finally performed this procedure, and the bike runs great again. I blocked off the intake connection and removed the tip-over valve to let the tank vent straight to atmosphere. So far I haven't had any issues with fuel delivery like that night.

Now that the tank is vented straight to open atmosphere, I can see small puddles of fuel under the bike each time I leave the bike sitting. Usually only a few drops in my garage floor, but a more noticeable size in the parking lot while leaving work. At work my bike sits in the sun for 8-9 hours a day.

Why is the tank getting so pressurized while sitting that it pushes fuel out of the breather? Is this just normal occurrence for a tank that sits in the sun in 90+ F weather?

 

[GTM®]

Is this just normal occurrence for a tank that sits in the sun in 90+ F weather?

Absolutely is. Try sitting a metal or plastic gas can in the sun and see what happens.

 

[Andrew Cross]

Greetings fellows,

Earlier this year I bought a 2016 V7 II Racer. The bike was sold in new condition, as it was leftover from 2016 and never sold. I have about 800 miles on it and did the first service myself (lubrications, valve adjustments, etc). Soon after I bought the bike, it started giving me the cold start idling issues - stalling and frequently struggling to stay running. After doing very little research, I found that it's a common issue, and a lot of people are doing this EVAP bypass/delete mod to solve it.

I want to perform this mod on my bike, but when I look at it, it doesn't appear to be as I would expect. My EVAP can has the two hoses coming out: one of which goes into the throttle body, and the other one goes up toward the fuel tank (although I can't see exactly where it connects without lifting the tank).

My understanding is that the hose going to the fuel tank should have the check valve on it, which I would then remove and leave the two cut ends of the hose open to atmosphere. The hose going to the throttle body should be cut and blocked off with a plug to fix what is effectively the intake vacuum leak.

Here's the deal: I don't see that check valve anywhere on the hose that runs to the fuel tank. Should it be out in the open, or would it be buried up close to the fuel tank connection point? Without lifting the fuel tank, all I see is one continuous hose going from the EVAP can to the tank.
As for the hose going into the throttle body, it appears to have been cut and joined back together with a clamped barb fitting.

Now a few questions:
Is this how the bike comes stock? It's not at all what I was expecting (#1 - check valve missing or buried higher up in the assembly; #2 - the cut hose joined back together by the barb fitting...maybe a double ended plug?)
Does the bike appear to be modified from stock?
If it is indeed modified, (although technically illegal) would this be something the dealer would have done?
If it is indeed modified, was the modification done correctly? (I'm leaning towards no, because #1 - it differs from the modification as described in this thread; and #2 - the bike still runs like shit on cold starts)
Should I consult the dealership? I have a feeling they'll tell me they can't do anything with the EVAP system. Since the bike was sold new, it's under factory warranty for two years.

Hopefully my photos show enough of what needs to be seen. Also take note of the clamp job...looks a little sloppy.

Thanks!

 

[memorabe]

Greetings fellows,

Earlier this year I bought a 2016 V7 II Racer. The bike was sold in new condition, as it was leftover from 2016 and never sold. I have about 800 miles on it and did the first service myself (lubrications, valve adjustments, etc). Soon after I bought the bike, it started giving me the cold start idling issues - stalling and frequently struggling to stay running. After doing very little research, I found that it's a common issue, and a lot of people are doing this EVAP bypass/delete mod to solve it.

I want to perform this mod on my bike, but when I look at it, it doesn't appear to be as I would expect. My EVAP can has the two hoses coming out: one of which goes into the throttle body, and the other one goes up toward the fuel tank (although I can't see exactly where it connects without lifting the tank).

My understanding is that the hose going to the fuel tank should have the check valve on it, which I would then remove and leave the two cut ends of the hose open to atmosphere. The hose going to the throttle body should be cut and blocked off with a plug to fix what is effectively the intake vacuum leak.

Here's the deal: I don't see that check valve anywhere on the hose that runs to the fuel tank. Should it be out in the open, or would it be buried up close to the fuel tank connection point? Without lifting the fuel tank, all I see is one continuous hose going from the EVAP can to the tank.
As for the hose going into the throttle body, it appears to have been cut and joined back together with a clamped barb fitting.

Now a few questions:
Is this how the bike comes stock? It's not at all what I was expecting (#1 - check valve missing or buried higher up in the assembly; #2 - the cut hose joined back together by the barb fitting...maybe a double ended plug?)
Does the bike appear to be modified from stock?
If it is indeed modified, (although technically illegal) would this be something the dealer would have done?
If it is indeed modified, was the modification done correctly? (I'm leaning towards no, because #1 - it differs from the modification as described in this thread; and #2 - the bike still runs like shit on cold starts)
Should I consult the dealership? I have a feeling they'll tell me they can't do anything with the EVAP system. Since the bike was sold new, it's under factory warranty for two years.

Hopefully my photos show enough of what needs to be seen. Also take note of the clamp job...looks a little sloppy.

Thanks!

View attachment 23151 View attachment 23152 View attachment 23153

I’ve just performed this mod on my bike, it’s the same as yours (mine is No. 189) so hopefully I can answer your questions.

1. Yes, the check valve is hidden and you will have to remove the fuel tank to reach it.

2. All I did was drill the check valve and attach the hose that goes from the canister to the atmosphere, you just have to pull it to get there, it is long enough.

3. Yes, that barb fitting came like that from the factory. With the tank removed I cut the hose about an inch and a half from the intake manifold and plugged a screw with a clamp to it.

4. To remove the canister and its remaining hoses you have to disassemble the right intake hose.

Hope that helps!

 

[SirIzak]

Just did the canisterectomy on mine and all is well thus far! Read the whole thread and I do have one question, after everything was removed I needed to run a line from the vent port on the tank (the one near the headstock) to the bottom of the bike and did not have enough good line left (most of it was quite brittle and cracked easily, which I found surprising on a garage kept six year old machine) so while rummaging through my spares I found a "T" fitting that fit the drain line and used the "T" fitting to splice the vent line into the drain line. I ordered some hose that I should have in a few days and figured I would route everything correctly if need be or next time I have the tank off, but does anyone think this would be an issue? If not I'll just leave it as is, so far I haven't noticed anything more than a few drops from the drain/vent line after I park, which I think is normal.

 

[WillyNilly]

I also did this operation this week.
looking closely at the canister I was surprised to see

I knew there was something sinister about it! I looked at a friends R1200 and he has the exact same part lurking behind
his head stem.
I had been having the moaning sound and gasping when opening the gas cap. It may be my imagination but
after the operation the bike seems to be running smoother. It starts and idles better and doesn’t stumble ar 3-4k rpm’s.

I’m thinking I eliminated a built in intake leak!