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Power Commander-V & AT-300 Install How-To for your California 1400

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Another GuzziTech exclusive... PC-V/AT-300 for your California 1400!
Install how-to for your Cal 14. MUST be used in conjunction with a GT-Rx® ECU Performance re-flash.
Order info here; https://gtmotocycles.com/products/gt-rx-pc-v-at300-ecu-flash-tool

For details on steps 1-4, please see >THIS< thread:

1. Remove fuel cap and trim cover. Re-install fuel cap.
2. Remove lower tank trim that wraps the headstock and frame cover.
3. Remove seat & rear tank bolt. Pull tank rearwards being careful not to scratch the valve covers (I HIGHLY recommend you remove the top cosmetic valve covers to protect them from this). There is wiring and a plug on the back right side of the tank, remove from clip/holder to allow slack.
4. Remove Throttle Body covers.
5. Lay the PC-V on battery tray, and route wires under the tank and air box bracket (bolts must be removed for this):

Cal14PCV 1

6. Route wires to each side, using the grey TPS wire feed to the right side, when seated looking forward. To gain some length on the TPS wire, feel free to remove the tape and pull it to the loom split closer to the PC-V. If I have time before I send yours, I will do so for you.
7. Un-clip stock injector plugs by carefully removing the wire securing ring.
8. Plug the stock injector plug into the PC-V harness, and the PC-V female plug into the injector:

Cal14PCV 2

Cal14PCV 3

9. Under the back of the tank, you'll find the TPS plug on top of the throttle body assembly. Remove the TPS plug by sliding the yellow locking clip rearwards and remove the plug. Using the Posi-Tap, connect to the yellow/black wire, and re-install:

Cal14PCV 4

Cal14PCV 5

10. Re-install tank and all trim/covers (1-4 above), and throttle body covers.
11. Remove plastic trim and exhaust heat shield on the right side of bike to expose the 02-sensor/lambda plug. Remove 02-sensor and re-install new wide-band sensor from the AT-300 Kit. Connect the harness, and route to the left side of the bike. Water-proof the stock harness plug (I used heat shrink-wrap). Replace cover.

Cal14PCV 6

12. Remove left side plastic starter cover and exhaust heat shield to expose the 02-sensor/lambda plug. Remove the stock 02-sensor and unplug. Water-proof the stock harness plug (I used heat shrink-wrap):

Cal14PCV 7

13. Install the new wide-band sensor, and route both cables and extensions and zip tie as shown below:

Cal14PCV 8

14. Remove side cover (California 1400 emblemed) and route 02-sensor wires upwards behind frame:

Cal14PCV 9

15. Install the 02-sensor wires following the instructions carefully to the AT-300, and mount as shown:

Cal14PCV 10

Continued below...
 
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Continued from above...

16. Shorten the AT-300 power and ground lengths to fit. The red power wire goes to the plug below, and ground to the battery. Use the white end-capped plug connector to power the AT-300, using the middle green/black wire. Verify this is a switched 12V power source before connecting. The bottom green/red is 12V, but not switched:

Cal14PCV 11

17. Remove the battery/ECU cover to expose the battery ground. The PC-V can get velcro'ed to the outer cover per below - position to sit directly in front of the AT3 unit, and clear of the frame rails or any obstructions. Route both the PC-V & AT-300 grounds under the frame rail, and ground both at the battery.

Cal14PCV 12

18. Re-install the side cover, and start the bike to insure all connections are good. Once verified, re-install all covers, and be sure all wiring is free from any pinch-points or high-heat areas. The only thing that must be done is to Calibrate Min/Max Throttle Position, Download and install the Power Core C3 Tuning software >HERE< -- Set the TP Min/Max shown below: From the top menu, use >Calibrate > Throttle Calibration to set --> Warm the bike up, click reset and take one quick stab to full throttle (make sure you hit the stop). You can manually adjust the idle millivolts so that you get a fairly stable 0% on screen at idle, and then click OK. Be sure you see 100% on screen when stabbing the throttle to wide open.
Both PC6/AT-3 are sent pre-mapped and all connections in place. You will NOT see a base Fuel map, it is hidden by design. You will only see AutoTune Trim tables, and the overlay map. Do NOT ever update the Firmware or Modify the Target AFR table without first consulting us.

PC6 TP Min Max

19. Enjoy your new machine!
 
Howdy, I hope this is were this reply should go

I have been reading and looking around your site for well over a year as a guest. Two and a half years ago I was hit by a 1 ton truck. After one of my back operations I went to kick some tires and saw a white 1400 touring now it is mine and for as long as I can get my leg over the bike and put my butt in the saddle, every day will be a good day for a ride!

Now to get to the questions, I have read most of the post about the lean conditions the 1400 has and the Power Commander 5 and Autotune but after reading Todd’s post the step by step PC5 & AT install. And many other post about resetting the TPS and resetting the maintenance light and trouble codes I have these questions. First, in the install post there is no mention of resetting the ECU TPS! Yes or no? if yes what do I need to do it myself?

I Love this bike and I think it is funny when some of my old Harley friends start to look it over and then try not to look as if they like it too much, And then there is the fact it runs like a raped ape, and not one of the plain apes but one of the striped ass ones, it does have some low end surging but I can see a Power Commander and Autotune with ECU flash in the very near future. Thank You David for your replies.
 
Install went fine, at the same time I did the alt fix, and deleted the check valve on the fuel tank and charcoal canister. I have only put about 300 miles on it since the upgrades but so far I would highly recommend it. No new exhaust yet, Todd is going to quote me some of his mufflers except longer for a touring bike. Hopefully this summer things will fall into place and I can get his full exhaust.
 
are there instructions for this? I found a cali install i followed for the electronics. now I'm to the point of the exhaust. what is the little screen for that comes in the bag?

can I ride once the exhaust is installed and o2 sensors are connected? does it matter which side is 1 or 2?

thanks...
 
are there instructions for this? I found a cali install i followed for the electronics. now I'm to the point of the exhaust. what is the little screen for that comes in the bag?
can I ride once the exhaust is installed and o2 sensors are connected? does it matter which side is 1 or 2?
thanks...
Combined here with the 1400 install thread. Yellow and white wired PC-V plug is right side. AutoTune #1 is left side, #2 right.

Screen?

ECU flash MUST be done first before you run the bike and the PC-V/AT-300 installed at the same time. DO NOT RUN THE BIKE WITHOUT THE FLASH DONE FIRST.
 
Combined here with the 1400 install thread. Yellow and white PC-V plugs are right side. AutoTune #1 is eft side, #2 right.

Screen?

ECU flash MUST be done first before you run the bike and the PC-V/AT-300 installed at the same time. DO NOT RUN THE BIKE WITHOUT THE FLASH DONE FIRST.


where are the instructions for the flash?
 
so I got everything installed and I get a traction control error and the check engine which I believe you said is due to the plugged air leak. any thoughts? i reset the code and got it back.
 
so I got everything installed and I get a traction control error and the check engine which I believe you said is due to the plugged air leak. any thoughts? i reset the code and got it back.

The Traction control error is actually just a warning, saying that TC is turned off. This happens whenever you download the new ECU map. Go into the bike's menu and set it to one of the "enabled" values. The Check Engine light is something you have to live with for the moment. My understanding is that post 2016 bikes which are Euro 4 compliant have different software in the ECU to the pre-2016 (they also have a secondary air supply pump which needs blocking off to get the best out of the PCV/AT300 - you can see references to both here https://gtmotocycles.com/collections/fueling/products/gt-rx-pc-v-at300-ecu-flash-tool and also here https://www.guzzitech.com/forums/threads/euro-4-secondary-air-supply-pump.19574/ ). Blocking off is real easy

The 2016+ ECU software detects that the O2 sensors have been disconnected from the ECU (replaced with the wide band sensors that now plug into the AT300) and throw a light. I have it and though it initially bothered me at first, I just ignore it now. If you plug the hand held programmer into the ECU port behind the battery, I'm betting you will be able to see the error codes P0134 and P0154 (both related to O2 Sensors), you can reset all you like, they will come back on after 1 minute. There's no way I would go back to stock however, the new PCV/AT300 runs beautifully.
 
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The Traction control error is actually just a warning, saying that TC is turned off. This happens whenever you download the new ECU map. Go into the bike's menu and set it to one of the "enabled" values. The Check Engine light is something you have to live with for the moment. My understanding is that post 2016 bikes which are Euro 4 compliant have different software in the ECU to the pre-2016 (they also have a secondary air supply pump which needs blocking off to get the best out of the PCV/AT300 - you can see references to both here https://gtmotocycles.com/collections/fueling/products/gt-rx-pc-v-at300-ecu-flash-tool and also here https://www.guzzitech.com/forums/threads/euro-4-secondary-air-supply-pump.19574/ ). Blocking off is real easy

The 2016+ ECU software detects that the O2 sensors have been disconnected from the ECU (replaced with the wide band sensors that now plug into the AT300) and throw a light. I have it and though it initially bothered me at first, I just ignore it now. If you plug the hand held programmer into the ECU port behind the battery, I'm betting you will be able to see the error codes P0134 and P0154 (both related to O2 Sensors), you can reset all you like, they will come back on after 1 minute. There's no way I would go back to stock however, the new PCV/AT300 runs beautifully.

ok, I tried changing the traction setting but i'm not super familiar with the bike other than taking it apart to do this and it wouldnt change from the mgtc or whatever. am i supposed to be using any particular map for the PCv on top of the ecu reprogramming?
 
The 2016+ ECU software detects that the O2 sensors have been disconnected from the ECU
Thanks Paul. The input signal is deleted, the error code is for the sensor heaters... this is what I am working on resolving still.
ok, I tried changing the traction setting but i'm not super familiar with the bike other than taking it apart to do this and it wouldnt change from the mgtc or whatever. am i supposed to be using any particular map for the PCv on top of the ecu reprogramming?
The PC-V is sent pre-programmed, but as stated, do set the PC-V Min/Max throttle...

The last VERY important step is to download and install the PC-V software (disk or PowerCommander.com). Once you have it running, be sure to set the Min/Max Throttle Position within the PC software. Download the software here (top link only); http://www.powercommander.com/powercommander/downloads/powercommander_downloads.aspx?ProdType=Power Commander V If yours is not reading zero at idle with the motor at normal temperature, then use the following procedure to correct it. In the Power Commander Control Center Software, go to menu “Power Commander Tools” and look for the tool to calibrate the throttle. The bike should always be running when setting the throttle position, as the voltage the sensor sends out can vary between when the bike is at “key on” and “motor running”. The bike also needs to be at fully warmed up to its normal operating temperature. Ignore the done on Dyno warning only... All you need to do is press "reset" while the bike running at idle, then quickly turn the throttle wide open till you hit the mechanical stop, then let go. Next press "Ok". You don't have to rev the bike out, the throttle just needs to go all the way to wide open and then back to idle. A super quick jab to full throttle and let go.
 
ok, I tried changing the traction setting but i'm not super familiar with the bike other than taking it apart to do this and it wouldnt change from the mgtc or whatever. am i supposed to be using any particular map for the PCv on top of the ecu reprogramming?

You can read about the traction control here https://www.guzzitech.com/forums/threads/cal-1400-mgct-info-faqs.13607/#post-153206

There is no need to re-calibrate the system, just go into the menu and set the traction control to one of the active levels 1-3 depending on level of intervention required (think this requires ignition on/engine off to do).

The PCV comes pre-programmed with a default map from Todd. After install, take the bike on a good long ride and let the O2 sensors "do their stuff" so that the AT300 builds up an image of where the fueling needs adjusting/trimming. You then pull the map from the PCV (complete with "trims") using Dynojets own power commander application (download from the web - see photo). This can be done with your home computer attached to the PCV via a USB cable that I think Todd supplies in the kit.

Send the pulled map to Todd, he does his magic and sends you back a new one which you download to the PCV again using the power commander app on your computer. Do this from time to time and each time you service bike (did mine yesterday as it happens)


PCV
 
Thanks Paul. The input signal is deleted, the error code is for the sensor heaters... this is what I am working on resolving still.

The PC-V is sent pre-programmed, but as stated, do set the PC-V Min/Max throttle...

The last VERY important step is to download and install the PC-V software (disk or PowerCommander.com). Once you have it running, be sure to set the Min/Max Throttle Position within the PC software (see attached image - ignore the Dyno note, not needed). Download the software here (top link only); http://www.powercommander.com/powercommander/downloads/powercommander_downloads.aspx?ProdType=Power Commander V If yours is not reading zero at idle with the motor at normal temperature, then use the following procedure to correct it. In the Power Commander Control Center Software, go to menu “Power Commander Tools” and look for the tool to calibrate the throttle. The bike should always be running when setting the throttle position, as the voltage the sensor sends out can vary between when the bike is at “key on” and “motor running”. The bike also needs to be at fully warmed up to its normal operating temperature. Ignore the done on Dyno warning only... All you need to do is press "reset" while the bike running at idle, then quickly turn the throttle wide open till you hit the mechanical stop, then let go. Next press "Ok". You don't have to rev the bike out, the throttle just needs to go all the way to wide open and then back to idle. A super quick jab to full throttle and let go.

Just an observation, resetting the throttle position should be done with the bike in Tourismo or Veloce mode, not in Pioggia (rain) mode. My experience with this seems to indicate that the throttle MAX voltage range is limited in rain mode to somewhere near to 2v, whereas in the other two modes, it goes all the way to about 4.4v
 
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ah ok... well, I went out and rode to recalibrate, and it wouldnt let me change the traction number until i powered off and back on, then it let me change it (could have been user error, but it really didnt seem like it wanted to change and now it does), so now no more error for that. I didn't want to try max power/ wide open with no traction ahh, i didnt know I was to send the PCv file to him as well. thanks for all of your help! I don't think i'd go back to stock either, I've only put 75 miles on it so far but it seems to be running much better.
 
Just an observation, but resetting the throttle position should be done with the bike in Tourismo or Veloce mode, not in Pioggia (rain) mode. My experience with this seems to indicate that the throttle MAX voltage range in limited in rain mode to somewhere near to 2v, whereas in the other two modes, it goes all the way to about 4.4v
ok, i'll have to check or re rev. i believe mine stopped somewhere in the 3 volt range. so its not a quick snap?
 
ok, i'll have to check or re rev. i believe mine stopped somewhere in the 3 volt range. so its not a quick snap?

Yes the software can be a little slow to react to a quick "snap of the throttle", so hold it open to the max for about a quarter of a second (there's no harm if the bike is fully warmed up). I also noticed the idle voltage jumps around a little due to the vibration from the engine etc and also that the voltage when cold (about 0.78v on my bike) drops to about 0.74 when fully warmed up.

btw I just leave my USB cable attached to the PCV behind the side cover, so I don't have to remove the cover each time I want to communicate with the PCV
 
Yes the software can be a little slow to react to a quick "snap of the throttle", so hold it open to the max for about a quarter of a second (there's no harm if the bike is fully warmed up). I also noticed the idle voltage jumps around a little due to the vibration from the engine etc and also that the voltage when cold (about 0.78v on my bike) drops to about 0.74 when fully warmed up.

btw I just leave my USB cable attached to the PCV behind the side cover, so I don't have to remove the cover each time I want to communicate with the PCV
I just re did it and got .734 on idle and 4.060 on max, so maybe it was a little more warmed up this time. i'm debating keeping the cable there too while I get this worked out... thanks for all of your help.
 
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