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Oils...

Tom Prescott

Tom Prescott

Tuned and Synch'ed
Joined
Dec 24, 2015
Messages
55
Location
NC
I am an Amsoil guy and need to know what to use in my 8V Griso for the engine, Transmission and differential. Has it changed since back in the day or is there something better. All opinions welcome. :)
 
What matters is viscosity. Check the owners manual and use the recommended weights. Personally I'm not an Amsoil guy, I tried it and found it lacking, but it is your bike and use what you want.
 
Up north of the border, I have found Motul 10W60 from an auto parts chain . Synthetic, 5 liter can for a great price.
10W60 seems to be recommended for all the carcs, but do as you like.
Redline gear oil is expensive but peace of mind.....I even use these two in the Jackal.
 
john zibell said:
What matters is viscosity. Check the owners manual and use the recommended weights. Personally I'm not an Amsoil guy, I tried it and found it lacking, but it is your bike and use what you want.
Click to expand...

Hey John, I used to run Amsoil in my Jackal and Le Mans III, it came highly recommended from Todd E. Can you tell what you use and why, just looking at options as I just hit 1K. Thanks again, Tom
 
Tom Prescott said:
Hey John, I used to run Amsoil in my Jackal and Le Mans III, it came highly recommended from Todd E. Can you tell what you use and why, just looking at options as I just hit 1K. Thanks again, Tom
Click to expand...


OK I will. I tried it in one of my bikes. When I went in to do a valve adjustment the valve rockers and all were completely dry. No oil film. Since most wear is at start up I switched back to Mobil 1. It leaves a good film of oil on the metal bits so no dry starts.
 
john zibell said:
OK I will. I tried it in one of my bikes. When I went in to do a valve adjustment the valve rockers and all were completely dry. No oil film. Since most wear is at start up I switched back to Mobil 1. It leaves a good film of oil on the metal bits so no dry starts.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the input John, I've heard good things about Mobil 1.
 
Going to chime in here, I 'get' the use of synthetic in a high carbon and varnish environment like an engine but...... in transmissions, and I really am looking at carcs here I don't see the point.
Much noise has been made of water ingress in carcs and emulsification.
I believe that it's better to use half the price mineral gear oil and change it as often as the engine oil to keep a weather eye out for contamination rather than to leave it in longer trusting to synth properties and risk not knowing.
Chris.
 
Chris Wilson said:
Going to chime in here, I 'get' the use of synthetic in a high carbon and varnish environment like an engine but...... in transmissions, and I really am looking at carcs here I don't see the point.
Much noise has been made of water ingress in carcs and emulsification.
I believe that it's better to use half the price mineral gear oil and change it as often as the engine oil to keep a weather eye out for contamination rather than to leave it in longer trusting to synth properties and risk not knowing.
Chris.
Click to expand...
That is a valid option, use a cheaper mineral based oil and change it more often. But a good synthetic oil can deliver better performance and last longer, even in a transmission or gearbox. I use a better quality oil and change it as often as it needs changing. My version of it is to spend the little bit extra on a better quality oil and change it as often as it needs changing. It is a lot cheaper to change fluids than to have to replace hard parts due to wear.
 
I usually check and change the oil based on the recommendations of the manufacturer, there is always a maintenance schedule. When checking the oil, if I see signs of it having water contamination, if it smells / looks burnt, or it it shows signs of a change in viscosity, I will change it even if it is not time to change it according to the maintenance schedule. For example, if you have ever smelled burned gear oil you know what I mean. You can smell when gear oil has gotten too hot. It doesn't smell good new, but if it gets too hot it starts smelling even worse.

And then there is the aspect that sometimes I just change a fluid simply because I am not sure about it. I would rather change an oil or fluid that doesn't need to be changed vs leave an oil or fluid in that needs changing. In the long run, oils and fluids are cheap. Even when you buy high end stuff. an extra few bucks here and there is worth it to me. None of the four Guzzi's I own can be replaced off the show room floor. And with what I heard, that Guzzi is only going to support parts for 7 years, I won't even be able to buy parts for any of my Guzzi's. So spending more than I need to on oils and fluids is still better than having something fail due to an oil or fluid issue.
 
Thanks for the reply, and I agree with you.
I am just not convinced that using full synth in a bevel box is really needed.
The best of fluids is an admiral goal but sometimes a waste.
I have tried 98 RON fuel, expensive, works great but in the end no discernible difference to the much cheaper 95 RON.
Had a Bevel drive for over 250,000km using to quality high spec Penrite mineral oil, never an issue.
So I suppose it gets down to preference.
Oh, and if my CARC ever gets an issue Peter Roper has a mountain of them in the back of his workshop!
,
Cheers.
 
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