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Refurbishing my 2007 Norge

Brian UK said:
Could I suggest you do not use a rachet strap to force the tank forward enough to get that rear bolt in place. I know of one tank which split down the back following this proceedure. They can't be repaired.
Better to relieve the hole at the back with a file. Mine is now slotted about 1/4 inch.

I have the Helibar risers so pushing the tank forward fouls them and they hit the tank at full lock. Had to file the back off them too, and the bottom edge to the top yoke.
Click to expand...


I'd worry about that, too, tho my swollen tank survived similar attempts.

I "solved" the problem by buying used tanks for Norge (and Griso). I swap them out every year or so. I then drain, rinse, and dry the "old" one, and reinstall it after it's returned to its original svelter self. :giggle:

I detest ethanol. :swear: Corn should be used to make bourbon, not fuel. :rofl:

Bill
 
Brian UK said:
Could I suggest you do not use a rachet strap to force the tank forward enough to get that rear bolt in place. I know of one tank which split down the back following this procedure.
Click to expand...

Noted & will comply. Not sure I want to slot the hole out but will think on it. Have also seen a bottle jack used to push tank into place.
 
Today I pumped up the tyres and decided that while I want to change the front brake fluid, it's good enough for now. Then I booked the MOT at my local independent place.

I'm pleased to say that the bike passed :D

I rode it home feeling quite elated (especially as I know the idiot that's been working on the bike!) and promptly rendered it rideable... by that I mean I dropped the sump plug and filter out& let it drain.

The oil in there is only 2,500 miles old but it's the stuff put in after I found all sorts of crud in the internal filter and a very old external one on the bike. I feel much happier knowing that while I might have wasted the existing oil, that will have come out bearing with it any other unpleasantness that may have been lurking somewhere in an oil gallery or similar and had been dislodged during normal operation.

I left the bike with a full, new HiFlo oil filter in place:
1oHBloJ.jpg


And the sump plug re-installed. And this note on the seat:
Rx7vJny.jpg


Just in case... :)

Lastly, while I was refitting the tank, this fella came off, so I cleaned his back with acetone and put him back on the tank. if he doesn't stick, I'll superglue him:
bB4NaZ3.jpg


Tomorrow I am going to do the valves (just to be sure) and fill the engine with fresh oil. Then, well, erm, I think I'll go for a ride :)
 
mylovelyhorse said:
Noted & will comply. Not sure I want to slot the hole out but will think on it. Have also seen a bottle jack used to push tank into place.
Click to expand...
I'm sure many have used all sorts of ways to distort the tank. Up to them.
There is plenty of meat on that flat section to slot the hole. Leaving any moulding in a stressed fitment can never be a good thing.
 
Today I have spent a lot of time working on the Norge with a good friend. We adjusted the valves (slightly out on intake, bang on for exhaust). Both outer spark plugs were pretty sooty & I can see traces of burnt oil on the crown of the right piston - it may not be very visible in this pic but it was the best of several attempts:
BStDiCz.jpg


I shall - once it's not raining - give it an "Italian tune up" which I hope will clear things up. I shall also take it to Baldrick for the EFI adjusting and setting up 'just so'.

Next we changed the front and rear brake fluid, which looked pretty OK but as I don't know when it was last done, it seemed best. The lever feels better now.

Then I opened up the clutch master cylinder and was confronted with this:
TwkogUM.jpg


Ick. Ick ick ick ick!

So I got all the fluid out with a syringe and then really thoroughly cleaned the master cylinder out & we ran 1/2 a pint of so of nice clean brake fluid through the system until the soup that came out ran very clear.

In then went the nice, fresh, new engine oil until (after a 2 min run) the level sat at half way up the yellow-handled dipstick.

Next we spent some time reassembling the fairing and replacing the screw that goes under the lights and up into the fairing frame. That's not been there as long as I've had the bike so it was good to get a replacement back in place.

It's rained heavily all day so no test ride took place. Next time there's a dry day I'll take it out and feed it some miles. Quite something to look forward to :)
 
Well I've not done a throttle body sync or TPS reset but I have been out for a 50 mile road test. The outcome was as follows:
  1. The bike doesn't like to tick over when stone cold
  2. The bike ticks over happily once it's had 30 secs to get a little warmth into it
  3. The engine feels smoother than it ever has
  4. Putting 15w oil in the forks was A Good Idea as they feel great
  5. The engine oil stayed inside the bike
  6. The engine oil level hadn't changed after the ride
  7. I love riding my Norge (even in unpleasant weather)
Only 1 problem was found. The left hand indicators work just fine when I put the hazards on, but rarely come on when I attempt to signal that I am turning left. I'll have to strip that switch again, I think. I hope it's not an electrical connection under the tank - I really don't want to be taking that off yet again. Thoughts?
 
Each lamp is controlled individually from the dash. So the only common point for both LH indicators is the switch - unless you are really unlucky and have a wiring fault between the switch and dash.
 
Brian UK said:
unless you are really unlucky and have a wiring fault between the switch and dash.
Click to expand...
Knowing my general luck...

So I shall clean the switch and try to follow the cable as far as I can. We shall see - maybe tomorrow evening.

The starter switch is still sticking slightly now and then too, as it happens. Might as well do them both.
 
Certainly worth checking any connector you find. Spray it with electrical contact cleaner and lubricant.
I had a faulty clutch switch, I couldn't start the engine in gear with the clutch pulled in. Checked the switch, couldn't find a probelm, all clean. So traced the wires, found a connector by the headstock, full of crud. Cleaned it carefully. Clutch switch now working properly.
 
I rarely go into the office but today I had to - so I rode my Norge in. It has done 135 miles since the MOT now. Two issues:
  • the dipped beam is a bit low, although the main beam is bang on
  • 1/2 mile from home the red ! came on & the dash showed SERVICE for approx 150 yards
So... can the dipped beams be adjusted without changing the angles of the main beams?

I’ve no idea what might have caused the service lamp to come on for a few moments but it has occasionally done it before (back in June/July once or twice).
 
Yes, there are fiddley screws on the back of the light unit. Usually find it's best to hang upside down with your toes over a roof joist. Yes they are that difficult to get at.
But it's Italian, form over function every time.

Check the dash diagnostics to see what fault code is in memory.
 
Brian UK said:
Yes, there are fiddley screws on the back of the light unit. Usually find it's best to hang upside down with your toes over a roof joist. Yes they are that difficult to get at.
But it's Italian, form over function every time.
Click to expand...
Oh god, that means taking the cowl off again. I hate doing that. Still, if. I can raise the dipped beam slightly it’ll be worth it, I guess.

Check the dash diagnostics to see what fault code is in memory.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the reminder - I’d forgotten about doing that
 
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