• Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
  • There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.
  • Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
  • Like the new V100, GuzziTech is full throttle into the future! We're now running on an all-new server and we've updated our Forum software. The visual differences are obvious, but hopefully you'll notice the super-fast speed. If you notice any glitches or have any issues, please post on the Site Support section at the bottom. If you haven't yet, please upgrade your account which is covered in the Site Support section or via the DONATE tab above, which gives you full site access including the DOWNLOADS section. We really appreciate every $ and your support to keep this site ad-free. Create an account, sign in, upgrade your account, and enjoy. See you on the road in 2024.

Installing Norge Panniers on the 1200 Sport (with pics)

Bisbonian

Cruisin' Guzzisti
Joined
Aug 21, 2009
Messages
380
Location
Tucson, AZ
Here's the bike as it sits before we start. This is for one side but it goes without saying that the steps are the same for the other side.

Bags138.jpg


The first step is to remove the 2 bungee hooks.

Bags139.jpg


Remove the bolt and the spacer from the bungee hooks, I needed to use a screwdriver to push the spacer out as it was quite tight.

Bags141.jpg


Now you need to prep the brackets that will hold the top of the bags in place. You'll see that there are 3 little posts on the inside of the bracket, the little rubber caps go on these posts to help insulate the brackets from the bodywork; you have 6 rubber caps, 3 to each side, if you look closely you can see I have the center one installed with the caps on either end positioned about where the posts are on the bracket.


Bags140.jpg


Insert the spacers from the bungee hooks into the holes in the brackets in the same manner which you took them out, they slide right in with no sort of force necessary. Once you try to install the brackets it is obvious which side goes where. I put a bit of loctite on the bolts and tightened them up.

Bags143.jpg
 
Next we're going to install the rear bracket, this is more of just a stay so that the bags don't move too far inward as the bags just lean against it rather than clip to it.

The first thing to do is remove your license plate and then the license plate bracket.

Bags144.jpg


There are 2 pan head allen screws in your bag of hardware, these replace the nut/bolt setup that held the license plate bracket onto the fender. I reused the 2 flat washers that were originally there as there didn't seem to be any extras in the bag.

Bags145.jpg


The pegs on the bracket fit right up into the recesses in the fender and you simply thread your screws through the plate holder and into the bracket, again I used a bit of blue loctite. The legs on the end of the brackets are adjustable, I'll sort them out once I have the bags on there.

Bags147.jpg
 
Now it's time to install the front mount where the bag clips in and locks. The kit comes with some 6mm bolts, 2 of which are designed so the head twists off when it reaches the proper torque; this would be for security I imagine. There are also some tension washers and flat washers that go with these.

Bags148.jpg


I chose to bypass the security bolts and came up with a couple of standard 6mm bolts that were the correct length in my bolt jar.

The bracket fits right on the back of the passenger footpeg area. As you can see the pin goes up with the bend for the clamp facing out. Leave the bracket loose, install the bag making sure it clips into the bracket then tighten the bolts. Again I used a bit of loctite.

Just in case no one tells you, to remove the bag you need to turn the key past the locked position then push the key down to release the latch; I messed around with this for 10 minutes before I figured it out.

When you install the bags the little wire clip will fold down over the pin on the bracket, this is just a safety in case the latch fails.

Bags152.jpg


Now you need to adjust the spacing on the rear bracket. I'm not exactly sure of the proper method for this so I just brought it out until it touched the back of the bag. When I mounted the bracket I put it on with the bolts facing down so that it would be easy to access for this adjustment. The little rubber cap threads in and out for minor adjustments, I just put the brackets where I wanted it then put some loctite on the stud of the little rubber cap and tightened it up.

Bags158.jpg



Here's from a little further back.

Bags159.jpg



And here's what it looks like all finished with the bags off. I would like it if the front brackets were a little less conspicuous but it sure beats those huge frames that the aftermarket companies use. Perhaps a little black paint would make them disappear?

Bags161.jpg


Next you just do the other side, same as this one except the exhaust bracket goes on to drop the muffler about 2". I ordered the muffler bracket separately only to find that it came with the bags, this worked okay as the parts from the dealer haven't come in yet so I might have some spares if anyone needs them.

Keep in mind that the lock cylinders don't come with the bags; I was lucky as my 1200 Sport came with 3 extra lock cylinders but I gather that it's not that common to get them. The bags come with some tape over the key holes to keep a small spring in there, both of my springs were stuck to the tape so make sure you see it and put it in before inserting the lock cylinders.
 
Thanks for the meticulous description! Just fitting a set to my Breva 1200. Good to know it's possible to drop the exhaust. I was getting worried!
 
Thanks for the meticulous description! Just fitting a set to my Breva 1200. Good to know it's possible to drop the exhaust. I was getting worried!

Yes, a fine how-to-do-it.

OTOH, as for "it's possible to drop," recommend you limit that to the exhaust, and avoid riding in plush gravel with those fine-looking new panniers.

I had just paid $650 to refinish mine when this happened in September:

i-vN25hTP-L.jpg


$igh. :cry:

Thinking I'll just spray rattle-can bed liner on the things now.

Bill
 
OUCH BILL!
———————-
OP or whomever knows:

I would really like to do this for my son’s 1200 Sport.

How did your order the bags and mounts and any other needed parts? Do you have part numbers please?

Thanks so much!

Scott
 
I bough mine from the dealer, way back when I originally posted this. At the time it was just a whole kit, or at least that's the way it was presented.
 
Yes, a fine how-to-do-it.

OTOH, as for "it's possible to drop," recommend you limit that to the exhaust, and avoid riding in plush gravel with those fine-looking new panniers.

I had just paid $650 to refinish mine when this happened in September:

i-vN25hTP-L.jpg


$igh. :cry:

Thinking I'll just spray rattle-can bed liner on the things now.

Bill

Having done that a couple of times (on each side) I figured it would be cheaper to do this.....until the prices come down ;-)


 
I swear Bill, that bike likes Siesta's. How many times have you had the bodywork off in the last 12yrs?

Guilty, Your Honor. :think:

I'm actually thinking about painting the sweet thing blue to fit in with my latest affectation. No, really. :giggle:

i-kJX56Nx-L.jpg


i-8XZ4GbD-L.jpg


i-HPXkmZr-L.jpg


My struggle just now is to decide if I want to be a PFC or colonel. :rofl:

Seriously -- tho that was ;) -- I may rattle can it blue as it's not worth the co$$$$t to have a shop do it.

OTOH, spraying some black bed liner on the lower halves of the panniers is a practical and inexpensive option. I usually avoid messing with Italian aesthetics, but I've seen that done and it looks just fine.

Bill
 
Back
Top