• Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
  • There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.
  • Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
  • Like the new V100, GuzziTech is full throttle into the future! We're now running on an all-new server and we've updated our Forum software. The visual differences are obvious, but hopefully you'll notice the super-fast speed. If you notice any glitches or have any issues, please post on the Site Support section at the bottom. If you haven't yet, please upgrade your account which is covered in the Site Support section or via the DONATE tab above, which gives you full site access including the DOWNLOADS section. We really appreciate every $ and your support to keep this site ad-free. Create an account, sign in, upgrade your account, and enjoy. See you on the road in 2024.

Rear Pads down after 6000 miles

Gazdok

Cruisin' Guzzisti
Joined
Oct 27, 2008
Messages
122
Location
GB
While my first set of rear pads has slowly been wearing down over 18000 miles the "GOLDFREN" set of rear pads is down to bear metal carrier after 6000 miles!!

I did not pay a budget price when I got them and expected mileage something like the original ones.
Is GOLDFREN a budget break pad supplier?

What kind of rear pads have people on here used?
 
Is GOLDFREN a budget break pad supplier?
Never heard of them, but Google tells me “GOLDfren is a brand of brake and brake components manufactured in the Czech Republic.
The GOLDfren warranty applies for a period of 3 months from the date of purchase or 3,000km / 1,865mi of highway use. Customers should also be aware of the fact that some compounds perform better and last longer than the others.”
I’m not a fan of EBC for similar reasons, though I can get them as a dealer... This is what I sell and endorse; https://gtmotocycles.com/collection...ts+model_california-1400?sort_by=best-selling
 
Just maybe your rear caliper pistons are a bit corroded (from being exposed to the elements during the last 1/3 of life of the previous rear pads). That would tend to make them not fully retract, increasing wear on the new pads. Have you noticed a sudden drop in fuel mileage since putting in the new pads? Dragging rear brake could account for this.

'Geezer
 
As mentioned, a dragging brake caliper could be a problem.
That can be an issue because of a physical problem with the brake caliper. Or it can be an issue with the adjustment of the rear brake lever.
Or even they way you position your foot can apply a very small amount of pressure to the rear brake system.
We rarely use our rear brakes, I can't remember the last time I replaced a set of rear brake pads. For us the rear brake is mainly a parking brake.

As mentioned by others, if I was replacing the rear brake pads I would strongly consider a set of actual Brembo rear brake pads. The rear brakes is one place I am not looking for overly aggressive brake pads. But I know that some do prefer a more aggressive rear brake pad and for those I would look to EBC, Ferodo, or SBS. Galfer is another popular brand, but I haven't tried them. Keep in mind that a more aggressive pad means more wear, often both on the pad and the disk.
 
Thanks for the replies.
I looked for Brembo pads but could only find ceramic ones and I am not sure whether that is the right replacement.

I went for Ferodo in the end.

When I fitted the new pads it did not take any effort to push the pistons back with the remnants of the old pads still in. I did not expose the pistons though. So I am hoping that it was the pads.

The fuel consumption has been consistent. Still as bad as when the bike was new.
 
Back
Top