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1200 Sport 4V Alternator Issues

wallice

Just got it firing!
Joined
Jun 5, 2011
Messages
14
A mate of mine left the Sport with me as I have Guzzi's and I am an electrician (but not an auto electrician). He's had it to a dealer that did not resolve the issue, which, he says, is not charging correctly.

With the battery discharged to 12V (I must try another battery) at standstill, I then start (just..) the bike and the alternator provides 12.6v to the battery. This is very stable and does not change with engine revs. Voltage at the field terminal and both sides of the headlight relay is 11.1V. (there's 1.5v missing somewhere). I don't know what the charging current is/was. Shut the motor after a short time and battery will be at about 12.4, so the alternator is supplying charge

At the moment I'm confused/uncertain about how the regulator/field voltages actually operate. For example:
How does the regulator/generator output vary with field voltage input? Should it just regulate output to 14.2/14.8 regardless of field input voltage, as long as it is significantly more than 0v field voltage input, and not limit output current?

Or should the regulator limit/link output voltage to field input voltage plus a specified voltage (in this case 1.5V??). In this situation is regulator output limited to 12.6v, 0.6v more than battery voltage, to limit high inrush currents to the battery???

Help with this would be appreciated.

I'll follow up on the missing 1.5v.

Regards, Greg
 
I understand little of what you wrote, Wallice. But I had charging issues with my Breva 1100 which turned out to be a problem with one of the 30 amp fuses. Cleaned up the holder and new fuse resolved the problem.
 
I had exactly the same problem with my Norge. Cured by running a new heavy wire from the alternator main terminal to battery positive.
I found a badly burned connector in the old wire buried in the loom. Battery voltage immediately jumped up to 14.3v.
But you might also have a poor connection in the 30A fuse.
 
You have both made a very relevant point. I have been looking at the issue as reduced voltage output from the alternator as a result of reduced field voltage.

BUT, the suggestion of correct alternator voltage output and then voltage loss between the alternator output and the battery is very possible. it wont be easy, but Ill get a probe onto the output of the alternator to get a voltage reading to earth while the bike is running. Thanks! Greg
 
Just wanted to say thanks for the help with this. Alternator out put at the alternator was 13.4v, which is a bit low, but it had been rewound and fitted with an aftermarket regulator. I upraded the lugs to tinned copper crimp lugs, upgraded the fuse holder to a 40amp unit, found the join in the loom and replaced it with a tinned copper crimp link, replaced the cable from the link to the battery with heavier cable.

Battery now getting 13.3v, which is enough. No losses on the earth system.

Thanks to all! Regards, Greg
 
I had exactly the same problem with my Norge. Cured by running a new heavy wire from the alternator main terminal to battery positive.
I found a badly burned connector in the old wire buried in the loom. Battery voltage immediately jumped up to 14.3v.
But you might also have a poor connection in the 30A fuse.
Thanks Brian, after reading the answer you gave on another post (can't find it now ;-) ) I did the same with my '07 Norge. Ran a 12 gauge wire with a 40 amp fuse from alternator to battery and the voltage jumped from 13.5 to 14.3.
 
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