• Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
  • There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.
  • Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
  • Like the new V100, GuzziTech is full throttle into the future! We're now running on an all-new server and we've updated our Forum software. The visual differences are obvious, but hopefully you'll notice the super-fast speed. If you notice any glitches or have any issues, please post on the Site Support section at the bottom. If you haven't yet, please upgrade your account which is covered in the Site Support section or via the DONATE tab above, which gives you full site access including the DOWNLOADS section. We really appreciate every $ and your support to keep this site ad-free. Create an account, sign in, upgrade your account, and enjoy. See you on the road in 2024.

Loose bolts and vibration

BrianR

BrianR

Cruisin' Guzzisti
GT Famiglia
Joined
Mar 5, 2015
Messages
307
Location
In the wilds of Mission BC
It started off as a leaking CARC, then once done, the suspension linkages greased, then the shock off for a service (2016 Stelvio with 60,000 Kms), then the swinging arm bearings followed by front fork oil change and steering bearings re greased which led to the tank off to replace the cracked breather hoses and so the point of this is that with the tank off I could see the triangular mounting brackets that are attached to the inner side of each cylinder at mid point. There is a 17mm bolt in the cylinder and there are 2 large Allen bolts which attach this bracket to the frame. All four of these bolts were held in by two threads.
I had noticed a little extra vibration and likely this didn't help at all.
As an aside, its not an easy job replacing the two breather hoses that run from the back of the head as they were both cracked.
I dont post very often as I simply can't compete with the knowledge base on this site, but sometimes these little things can help.
Hopefully on the attached picture you can see the brackets, those are the two bolts sticking out at 9 'o' clock.
I amended the photo to show the loose bolts and their positions...now locktited.

NTX EngineMt Blts
 
The cracked breather hoses is a common problem. I just replaced mine on the Norge and of course I broke the red connector on the fuel tank. With the exchange and shipping it cost me $87 CAD for a $5 piece of plastic.
 
I still have to tackle the same issue on the Griso. But I think I am learning as the cracking only takes place near the heat of the cylinder so in future I'll do what I did with the right hand hose (which is a shit to get at) and just use a flared connector and splice in about 6 inches of new hose from the cylinder to existing hose that has no cracks in it at all, as the further away from the cylinder head the better the hose is and it took me an hour to connect the left hose to the plastic chamber that is buried underneath the ABS unit. :banghead::banghead::banghead:
 
Thanks for the post and pic Brian. Always good to have new info and photos from people doing the work. Even I can often learn from them.
Careful on the tubing splices as the next place the tubing fails is at the u-bend before it goes into the cam gear covers on the back of the motor.
I started developing a kit with high quality braided line and banjo fittings along with a new metal cam gear covers, but stopped short when I saw that the breather fittings on the box itself were different sizes. Why oh why Guzzi.
We have such a kit for my GTM builds, as we built our own breather box/tube.
 
BrianR said:
I amended the photo to show the loose bolts and their positions...now locktited.
Click to expand...
Thanks again for pointing them out to our readers here. I added the photos and words to your top post here. Oddly enough the NTX is one of the rare models that use these back of the cylinder mounts, which I'm glad they did else my GTM builds couldn't be built with the big high-power motors.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top