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Sato rear sets for the V7 III

Do you have a picture of the speed bar on the bike?
On the Store page; https://gtmotocycles.com/products/lsl-7-8-speed-brooks-bar
The ones shown are rolled down further than what I personally like. It puts the bars close to what the Racer's bars are.

f98ce97a27c12d6e934b1d98c34efa2f_2000x.jpg
 
I’ve been running the Sato Rearsets in combination with a Jota 2.0 bar on my V7III Stone for over 2k miles now, great combo, strongly recommended. The Satos are brilliant (see my review in Todd’s store for details). The Jota 2.0 bar has two advantages over the LSL/clip-ons in my book:
#1: way more options to fine tune your ergos, and you can adjust them in just a few minutes.
#2: it retains the width of the stock Stone handlebars, meaning shoulder comfort & steering leverage are also retained.
The Jota 2.0 does have disadvantages too:
#1: the quality of the workmanship & customer service doesn’t necessarily match the price (I had to go find my own bolts to be able to actually safely assemble the bars)
#2: they don’t have the mounting holes for the switchgear/controls, so you have to find your own solution for that
But, on the bottom line, the combination of the Jota 2.0 bar and the Sato Rearsets is a major winner in my book. Especially as I can take the ergos from sporty (bars forward & down, pegs back & up) to scrambler (bars up & back, pegs forward & down) in 5min, dialing in a position that fits me spot-on each time.
 
I’ve been running the Sato Rearsets in combination with a Jota 2.0 bar on my V7III Stone for over 2k miles now, great combo, strongly recommended. The Satos are brilliant (see my review in Todd’s store for details). The Jota 2.0 bar has two advantages over the LSL/clip-ons in my book:
#1: way more options to fine tune your ergos, and you can adjust them in just a few minutes.
#2: it retains the width of the stock Stone handlebars, meaning shoulder comfort & steering leverage are also retained.
The Jota 2.0 does have disadvantages too:
#1: the quality of the workmanship & customer service doesn’t necessarily match the price (I had to go find my own bolts to be able to actually safely assemble the bars)
#2: they don’t have the mounting holes for the switchgear/controls, so you have to find your own solution for that
But, on the bottom line, the combination of the Jota 2.0 bar and the Sato Rearsets is a major winner in my book. Especially as I can take the ergos from sporty (bars forward & down, pegs back & up) to scrambler (bars up & back, pegs forward & down) in 5min, dialing in a position that fits me spot-on each time.

After a few months and a few thousand miles, I am still a big fan of the Sato/Jota combo. I've been tweaking the setup on each little by little, and now I am perfectly comfortable for several hundred miles a day while also feeling in control of the bike.
For those of you interested, I've recorded a couple video reviews of each product. Enjoy!

Sato Racing Rearsets Video Review:


Motone Jota 2.0 Handlebars Video Review:
 
Great videos, thanks! Would you say that the rearsets force more pressure into your wrists for normal street riding? I’m really interested in the fact that these bring the feet inward toward the frame, whereas the OEM pegs force my feet outward. This causes some knee/hip discomfort after a while in the saddle. However, I’m worried I’d be trading one ergonomic issue for another. Bringing my feet that far back would probably force weight forward onto my palms and wrists. It’s a concern that this would be an expensive experiment with minimal gains for me.
 
Great videos, thanks! Would you say that the rearsets force more pressure into your wrists for normal street riding? I’m really interested in the fact that these bring the feet inward toward the frame, whereas the OEM pegs force my feet outward. This causes some knee/hip discomfort after a while in the saddle. However, I’m worried I’d be trading one ergonomic issue for another. Bringing my feet that far back would probably force weight forward onto my palms and wrists. It’s a concern that this would be an expensive experiment with minimal gains for me.

Thank you for the kind words, and thank you for the question!

I am sure I can help shed some light, but I appreciate you sharing 4 pieces of info so that I can give you a more precise answer:

#1: how tall are you?
#2: what model of V7 do you have and what handlebars are you using?
#3: what percentage of your riding is below 40mph, what percentage is above 70mph, and what percentage in-between 40-70mph?
#4: are you using any kind of fairing, flyscreen, windshield, and if yes, which one?

Thank you in advance for the additional info, I’d rather give you a more precise answer than the “well, it depends” variety.
 
Thank you for the kind words, and thank you for the question!

I am sure I can help shed some light, but I appreciate you sharing 4 pieces of info so that I can give you a more precise answer:

#1: how tall are you?
#2: what model of V7 do you have and what handlebars are you using?
#3: what percentage of your riding is below 40mph, what percentage is above 70mph, and what percentage in-between 40-70mph?
#4: are you using any kind of fairing, flyscreen, windshield, and if yes, which one?

Thank you in advance for the additional info, I’d rather give you a more precise answer than the “well, it depends” variety.

I’m happy to provide more info.

#1: 6’2”. I wear a 34” inseam with Levi jeans, and I have a big wingspan. About 36”, measured from center of neck to wrist with arms at my side.

#2: V7III Milano, with stock handlebar.

#3: This is tricky to be precise with. I’d guess most of my riding (80%) is between 40-70 (non-freeway commuting and exploring). Maybe 10% is below that (neighborhoods, street traffic, etc...). 10% above that (occasions interstate highway, blast down an empty section of quiet 2-lane highway, etc...)

#4: No fly screen. I tried a Dart Classic, but took it off and returned it after an hour. It directed the air right into my chest, and the bottom of my helmet, making for a noisy and uncomfortable ride.
 
Would you say that the rearsets force more pressure into your wrists for normal street riding?
I'll step in to say that pegs only will not increase weight on your wrists. Only bars would do that. You can perform a simple test for the Sato RS' by having someone else hold a screw driver (or eq.) in the approximate positioning he noted.
 
I’m happy to provide more info.

#1: 6’2”. I wear a 34” inseam with Levi jeans, and I have a big wingspan. About 36”, measured from center of neck to wrist with arms at my side.

#2: V7III Milano, with stock handlebar.

#3: This is tricky to be precise with. I’d guess most of my riding (80%) is between 40-70 (non-freeway commuting and exploring). Maybe 10% is below that (neighborhoods, street traffic, etc...). 10% above that (occasions interstate highway, blast down an empty section of quiet 2-lane highway, etc...)

#4: No fly screen. I tried a Dart Classic, but took it off and returned it after an hour. It directed the air right into my chest, and the bottom of my helmet, making for a noisy and uncomfortable ride.

Thank you for the quick and very detailed response, I appreciate it!

So, the short answer regarding weight on wrists, is no, only limited. Getting into more details:
#1: As the Satos are closer to the frame, they make it more natural to grip the tank with your knees, which means you that will help carry some of your weight. It will also improve you control of the bike. I highly recommend Guzzi's OEM tankpads, by the way.
#2: As the Satos will move your feet to be positioned under your core, that will also help carry some of your weight. On the flipside, having your feet under your core will actually straighten out your back, which likely means...
#3: At speeds below 40mph, you may see a little bit of weight on our wrist, but, with the stock handlebar and your wingspan, probably only at slower city speeds. Starting at 30mph, the wind will start helping support your upper body. Between 40-60ish mph, the wind will balance you out on the bike, meaning your wrist will be almost weightless. Above 65mph, because your back is more upright, the wind will actually start pushing you backwards, meaning you may actually start pulling back on the bars. Since you are no longer slouching as much as with the mid-controls, the effect will be a little stronger than you experience now. You will be able to balance that out by leaning forward to help go weightless again, but, considering your wingspan and the stock bars, you need to decide if you will be ok with that arm position (angled elbows, somewhat of an "attack" position).
#4: Since you mentioned knee & hip discomfort, do you think the fairly aggressive knee/leg angle because of the rearsets, and placing weight on your thighs, knees, and ankles may be a problem in itself?
#5: This just crossed my mind as I am typing this, but you can actually somewhat simulate your riding position by using http://cycle-ergo.com/. Under Moto Guzzi, they have a V7II in their simulator. It is not a V7III, but you can still approximate things. The seat height on the V7III is 0.4" lower, so you want to make that adjustment (on the right, under 'Vehicle Customization). I think the V7III pegs are also a little more forward and down compared to the V7II (@Todd, do you have details on that?), but since it is better to err to the extreme, I recommend you start with the V7II stock position on the footpegs already in the simulator and then play the different Sato V7III foot peg mounting positions (you will need to make the metric to standard conversions):
1 137.5mm Back 20mm Up
2 137.5mm Back 35mm Up
3 150mm Back 35mm Up
Here after you plug in your body dimensions, you should be able to simulate your leg angle, your knee angle, your forward lean, and your reach to the bars.

I hope this helps!

PS: if you are still looking for some kind of a screen option, check out my Dart Piranha review on my YouTube. I had the same issue you had with the Classic (I'm 5'11", longer torso), but I modified it to work for me. I hope the that may help as well.
 
I'll step in to say that pegs only will not increase weight on your wrists. Only bars would do that. You can perform a simple test for the Sato RS' by having someone else hold a screw driver (or eq.) in the approximate positioning he noted.
Yup, that is also a great way to get a feel for it, thank you for that Todd!
I actually did the same thing by myself as I was thinking about the Satos. but by taking a heavy ratchet with an extension (making an L shape) and sticking one end behind the swingarm/shaft drive to simulate the footpeg position (with the bike parked of course). Ended up being fairly close to Position 3 on the Satos.

Another idea: lower the passenger pegs, and let the end of your heel catch on them. That will be almost the same position (a little more outboard) that you will be in by having your toes up on the pegs with the Satos in Position 3.

I hope this helps!
 
Awesome information. Thanks a lot for the great insight. Thinking about all of this, I feel as though I naturally grip the tank with my knees without thinking about it. With the OEM setup, this means my knees are in tight, and legs angle outward heading down to my feet because the mounting for the OEM legs pushes them outward a couple of inches. It’s this angle that I think causes discomfort after a while. Imagine walking around duck-footed for a few hours. I’m not too worried about the aggressive leg positioning with the rear sets if it means everything is lined up better. I’ll take Todd’s tip and jig up something to get a feel for the positioning. I won’t be buying anything any time soon anyway. Need to make sure I still have a job in a few months. Hopefully things settle down in the world soon.
 
Awesome information. Thanks a lot for the great insight. Thinking about all of this, I feel as though I naturally grip the tank with my knees without thinking about it. With the OEM setup, this means my knees are in tight, and legs angle outward heading down to my feet because the mounting for the OEM legs pushes them outward a couple of inches. It’s this angle that I think causes discomfort after a while. Imagine walking around duck-footed for a few hours. I’m not too worried about the aggressive leg positioning with the rear sets if it means everything is lined up better. I’ll take Todd’s tip and jig up something to get a feel for the positioning. I won’t be buying anything any time soon anyway. Need to make sure I still have a job in a few months. Hopefully things settle down in the world soon.

You are most welcome!
I had the exact same issue with the standard pegs, and the Satos were a Godsend for me. As I mentioned in the video, I actually ride around with them in Position 3, so the most aggressive one, and I'm in perfect comfort for a 500 mile day, get off at the end of it without a complaint.

And yup, I hope all goes well for you. I'm in the same boat, I know that my work will change dramatically in the near future, but crossing fingers & toes my cashflow won't, at least not in the wrong direction.

PS: thank you for your feedback and instructions on dropping the forks (different thread), that ended up being one of my little shelter-in-projects. Can't wait to give the bike a whirl once we can get out again. I appreciate you!
 
I’ve been running the Sato Rearsets in combination with a Jota 2.0 bar on my V7III Stone for over 2k miles now, great combo, strongly recommended. The Satos are brilliant (see my review in Todd’s store for details). The Jota 2.0 bar has two advantages over the LSL/clip-ons in my book:
#1: way more options to fine tune your ergos, and you can adjust them in just a few minutes.
#2: it retains the width of the stock Stone handlebars, meaning shoulder comfort & steering leverage are also retained.
The Jota 2.0 does have disadvantages too:
#1: the quality of the workmanship & customer service doesn’t necessarily match the price (I had to go find my own bolts to be able to actually safely assemble the bars)
#2: they don’t have the mounting holes for the switchgear/controls, so you have to find your own solution for that
But, on the bottom line, the combination of the Jota 2.0 bar and the Sato Rearsets is a major winner in my book. Especially as I can take the ergos from sporty (bars forward & down, pegs back & up) to scrambler (bars up & back, pegs forward & down) in 5min, dialing in a position that fits me spot-on each time.
Hi I just ordered the Sato rear sets and a Jota bar after seeing your YouTube video. I just wondered how easy are the Sato's to install.
 
Hi I just ordered the Sato rear sets and a Jota bar after seeing your YouTube video. I just wondered how easy are the Sato's to install.
I’m not the person you asked, but I saw your post and have relevant experience. I put the Sato rear sets on my V7III last year and it wasn’t hard at all with the exception of properly bleeding the rear brake line. It took a week to figure it out, but I ended up having to completely dismount the rear caliper, raise it as high in the air as the brake line allows, and flip it so the bleeder valve is on top. That’s how I was FINALLY able to get all of the air out. Otherwise, it wasn’t hard if you’re mechanically competent. I think you’ll need to do a wiring splice for the brake light switch also.
 
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I’m not the person you asked, but I saw your post and have relevant experience. I put the Sato rear sets on my V7III last year and it wasn’t hard at all with the exception of properly bleeding the rear brake line. It took a week to figure it out, but I ended up having to completely dismount the rear caliper, raise it as high in the air as the brake line allows, and flip it so the bleeder valve is on top. That’s how I was FINALLY able to get all of the air out. Otherwise, it wasn’t hard if you’re mechanically competent. I think you’ll need to do an wiring splice for the brake light switch also.
Thank you for letting me know.
 
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