• Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
  • There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.
  • Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
  • Like the new V100, GuzziTech is full throttle into the future! We're now running on an all-new server and we've updated our Forum software. The visual differences are obvious, but hopefully you'll notice the super-fast speed. If you notice any glitches or have any issues, please post on the Site Support section at the bottom. If you haven't yet, please upgrade your account which is covered in the Site Support section or via the DONATE tab above, which gives you full site access including the DOWNLOADS section. We really appreciate every $ and your support to keep this site ad-free. Create an account, sign in, upgrade your account, and enjoy. See you on the road in 2024.

New ECU - Need Code

If the original owner can give you the code you are golden. Pay attention to what Todd said about the antenna. It is located around the ignition switch. Check that it isn't disconnected or broken.
 
If the original owner can give you the code you are golden. Pay attention to what Todd said about the antenna. It is located around the ignition switch. Check that it isn't disconnected or broken.
Thanks for the tip. I looked carefully at it. Looks good and undamaged.

Found out the original Owner has passed away..... so I'm not even allowed be mad at him about it......

I also found out there is a guy in Italy that will rip the speedo apart, tear out the ROM memory chip, flash it on a gizmo he created, resolder it back in, and glue the whole thing back together for you. Hard pass on that....

So can I pick your collective brains - if I buy a brand new speedo/gage cluster I should be able to plug it in punch in 00000 and I should be good? The reason I ask is that there a European company that had a used gage cluster, ignition, two keys, the gas cap and the cores for the luggage set. Am I going to need all of that to get my bike rolling or is just the gage cluster is all that is needed?
 
I can appreciate your dilemma and desire to act logically and frugally.

Have you spoken to AF1? Their website specifically has a detailed statement about insuring a shipment to them for a specific dollar amount, based upon a loss of the transponder keys sent to them. I’m pretty sure they would have the correct and actual answers to solve your issue.
 
I can appreciate your dilemma and desire to act logically and frugally.

Have you spoken to AF1? Their website specifically has a detailed statement about insuring a shipment to them for a specific dollar amount, based upon a loss of the transponder keys sent to them. I’m pretty sure they would have the correct and actual answers to solve your issue.
Yes I spoke with them. Thanks for the contact. They are very knowledgeable. They tech I spoke with was the one who told me about the guy in Italy who tears the speedo apart and flashes the chip. He said a new $1,044 cluster should fix everything. Incidentally, the second guy to own the bike (not the original owner) just contacted me a few minutes ago and is going to look through his records to see if he can find the user code. Fingers crossed!
 
Yes I spoke with them. Thanks for the contact. They are very knowledgeable. They tech I spoke with was the one who told me about the guy in Italy who tears the speedo apart and flashes the chip. He said a new $1,044 cluster should fix everything. Incidentally, the second guy to own the bike (not the original owner) just contacted me a few minutes ago and is going to look through his records to see if he can find the user code. Fingers crossed!
Good luck! Carmo does the job for about half that cost, and if you choose to do a new dash, I can get them for $944. ;)
 
Carmo is the bomb! I’ve known people who used them and were very happy.

They charge about 250 Euro to reprogram your key to your dash and erase a user code. Fair and economical if you ask me...

www.carmo.nl
 
Last edited:
Since you have your original dash, I'm leaning toward the antenna for the key to be the issue. I recommend checking it out further. Just because it looks good, doesn't mean that it is. Check for continuity all the way from the antenna to the dash. Could save you a few bucks.
 
Since you have your original dash, I'm leaning toward the antenna for the key to be the issue. I recommend checking it out further. Just because it looks good, doesn't mean that it is. Check for continuity all the way from the antenna to the dash. Could save you a few bucks.
I checked it. It is all good. Thanks for the advice!

The second owner couldn't find the number in any of his records and never had to enter it during the time he owned it. I ended up finding a brand new dash from a dealer in the Netherlands for half the cost of any one I could find stateside. I'll let you all know how it works out! Thanks for all of the tips and tricks.
 
welcome to the new world of electronics suck.
I stopped to make an offer on a low mileage range rover with front end damage that had been sitting for a couple of years. would have been a great 4 wheel drive for my deer camp. the owner had let the battery go dead. can't just put in a battery and drive away. have to tow it to a dealer for a new battery and a computer rework every time a battery gets low. $800+ that's why it's still sitting there. that would happen once a year for me. Still loving my 86 Samurai!
 
I checked it. It is all good. Thanks for the advice!

The second owner couldn't find the number in any of his records and never had to enter it during the time he owned it. I ended up finding a brand new dash from a dealer in the Netherlands for half the cost of any one I could find stateside. I'll let you all know how it works out! Thanks for all of the tips and tricks.
Wondering how this turned out. Appreciate any update. My dash and only working key was shipped to Carmo and after 8 days...no show and nothing on tracking (3-5 days “guaranteed”). If it evaporated, I suspect I’ll be buying a new dash and matched key blanks as well. Would be good to know if that solved your problem. Thanks.
 
. the owner had let the battery go dead. can't just put in a battery and drive away. have to tow it to a dealer for a new battery and a computer rework every time a battery gets low. $800+ that's why it's still sitting there.

I was talking to my brother yesterday, the same idea applies to a neighbors vehicle, the battery was dying so the charging system ups the voltage.
If you just replace the battery it will be Overcharging the new battery and @#$&$# It .
So you have to take it to the dealer to reset the charging system !!

If the system is Smart enough to adjust for a dying battery why can’t they make it smart enough to recognize the battery is OK now !
 
I was talking to my brother yesterday, the same idea applies to a neighbors vehicle, the battery was dying so the charging system ups the voltage.
If you just replace the battery it will be Overcharging the new battery and @#$&$# It .
So you have to take it to the dealer to reset the charging system !!

If the system is Smart enough to adjust for a dying battery why can’t they make it smart enough to recognize the battery is OK now !
Sounds like it's a BMW. That's how they work. Also the battery only charges when coasting and braking. Ours is like that. It has a built in trickle charger and I plug it in at least weekly to keep it topped up.
You get at least .02% better mpg so it's so worth it...not.
 
Sounds like it's a BMW. That's how they work. Also the battery only charges when coasting and braking. Ours is like that. It has a built in trickle charger and I plug it in at least weekly to keep it topped up.
You get at least .02% better mpg so it's so worth it...not.

Oh, so it’s a Plug in hybrid :D
 
Back
Top