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2001 MG California Special

In addition to what John says above... depending on your weight and service of the suspension, you may be in dire need of an upgrade. The stock suspension was abysmal. Once that is sorted, I also highly recommend sliding the forks up in the triples trees ~25mm. With suspension and the fork mod, I tossed my damper in the round bin with a plastic bag in it. ;)
 
Indeed new tires are in order and suspension needs an upgrade. Too stiff for my taste. I had the steering bearings checked by a very reputable local mechanic (the "Guzzi Doctor" in North Chicago, IL) and he said there is no corrosion or other problems. He did tighten it though a bit which shifted the shimmy a bit lower so now it starts around 55 and disappears around 48 mph which is -unfortunately- a good suburb cruising speed but then the wobble problem is there only with 5th gear and when closing the throttle. Suspension wise, GT-Rx is right, I always thought this bike rides very hard and both front and back could be a little softer. So I will deal with that over the winter. Perhaps I should invest in a new pair of rear shocks (suggestions welcome) and inspect the front forks, replace oil, etc, and get a good base line with that also. I did not know about the 25mm lower mod. Mine is flush with the 3ple-tree, I am not doubting your advice, but 2.5 cm is a lot, no?!? How is that going to affect the geometry? Anyway, one more thing to ponder over the winter. Any suggestions about tires? Does anyone know what comes stock on the 2001 California Special, mine currently has the Bridgestone Battlax BT45. Thanks!
 
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john zibell said:
Should fit. You may need to change the fuel level sensor and I would use the manual petcock from the CAIII.
Click to expand...

The idea is to get the tank from ebay, fix it and use it in place of the existing one which is dented in a few spots and most local auto body shops have declined to even look at it. I thought popping dents is possible but apparently I am not having much luck in my area. So all the hardware will come from the "old" tank, provided it fits. But why replace the electronic fuel cut-off valve with a manual one? I am sure you have a good reason. Thanks!
 
The electronic ones are prone to failure. The manual one is not. You just open it and leave it open. Only close it when removing the tank.
 
Indeed, one more item on my list for my next trip to MG Cycle in Albany, WI.

Thanks for the tip, John !

mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=39
 
Hello all, regards from the NW burbs of Chicago, and John I am so sorry for not replying to your last post for so long, somehow I missed it. Btw, I replaced the steering damper and put two new tires and the problem went away.

However, now I need some advice on what happened and my bike spurted this fluid (see pics) after a nice 200 mile ride, 50/50 fast hwy and then slower back roads, last weekend. An hour after I returned from the ride I came back to the garage to unload my bags, only to find what you see in the photos. I did not ride hard, and the bike was solid as ever, no complaints, no hard shifting, no hesitation, it was so enjoyable to ride again after the pandemic restrictions. The fluid must have come out with pressure at first, it splattered around the center stand, it is definitely oil, but with a strong smell of gas, it is light grey in color and emulsified like milk. Btw, it kept dripping, slowly, for hours after I discovered it. Whatever it is, the bike lost about 2 ounces of it, so I am now worried: What is it? Why it happened? What do I do next? Please chime in, I hope it is not something big (as in $$$ big).

Thanks in advance, take care and stay safe and healthy!

MG Cal Sp oil leak 1 MG Cal Sp oil leak 2 MG Cal Sp oil leak 3 MG Cal Sp oil leak 4
 
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See where that hose connects. If it is an airbox drain line, probably not a big issue. If riding in cool weather you can get condensation mixed into oil. Gas fumes are possible in the airbox. Check to see the sump isn't over filled causing a buildup of oil in the airbox. Level should be about half way between full and add.
 
Thanks John, will do as you said. Indeed the weather was cool but I'd never think condensation in the airbox could cause that. Plus I rode for many hours, the last 45 mins at speeds around 80 mph, water vapor should have evaporated, no? The good news is I checked the oil and it looks as it should level and color. I have to wait till the weekend to take the tank and seat apart and see where all these hoses come from and go to. Thanks again, I do appreciate the feedback, will post back soon!
 
That is water contaminated oil. I bet it’s from the airbox. If you tried to fill your engine oil to the max full line, guaranteed you blew oil up into the airbox. If you rode in the rain, washed your bike, or have the lid removed from your airbox with a performance modification like a K&N filter or GTM airbox lid removal kit, then water can enter the airbox as well, mixes with the oil that blew up in there, making that milkshake color mess, then it all drains out the bottom of the plenum like you have experienced.

I would check the inside of the airbox plenum first.
 
Another note to add to all above, the crankcase breathes through the top frame tube, and returns at the frame intersection 'T' under the tail of the gas tank via small fittings, back into the air box. DUMB DUMB DUMB design IMO.
On mine, I grabbed both lines from the frame and put them into a catch can that I could see and drain as needed, that way that goop doesn’t find it's way into the air box, like most all do.
 
Thank you both for the insight, I will look into all possible culprits and report back soon. Keeping my fingers crossed, hope this is not a big deal, just something that needs to be looked into and addressed. I am not the most mechanically inclined guy out there, but I will try to implement what GT-Rx is suggesting. Most likely it was oil overfill from the sump, I do not think there are any mods or K&N filter, I had not washed the bike, and no rain during the ride. But it was a cool day with lots of air moisture. Anyway, will see and tell. Thanks again all!
 
Hello, just an FYI, today I went for a quick15-20 mins ride, local traffic, no more than 45 mph top speed. Came back, parked it, almost immediately started leaking that emulsified oil again. Not as much like before but it made a puddle. Btw, I checked the sump oil it looks good, a nice and dark amber color, so what's happening is probably water condensation from the air box but something blocks it and is not evaporating properly. I have to remove tank, etc, and start checking the hose, see where it's coming from. I am glad it's not something big but I can't say I was looking forward to this, at least not now. Oh well ...

However on a totally different note, since I will be removing the tank, I thought this is a good time to fix a couple of dents and scratches, so I started looking for the color. My 2001 California Special (some call it "Bassa") is the yellow/orange color you see in the pic on the left, but for the life of me I have not been able to find the color code, so I can buy the paint. Does anybody have any ideas, where should I look?

Thank you!
 
OK, so I am posting this 2+ years later, I hope everyone is doing well, it's been quite a ride since the covid pandemic and after. Bike has been doing fine, new tires, all dents and scratches fixed and with fresh paint all over (couldn't find the paint code ended up scanning it, got pretty close, even better, bolder) and I'm caught up with all maintenance, did a few mods/improvements here and there, she is going strong, been very happy so far with what she can do and fully accepted what she cannot. It's a good, solid bike if only a little bit quirky at times, right?

Anyways my latest project is upgrading the bulbs to LEDs. All except the H4 headlight, just can't find a decent and affordable LED replacement. Everything else has been swapped to LEDs (front running light, tail/break light, lic. plate light, dashboard and mph/rpm lights). But then I got stuck with the turn signals. I have switched the flasher to an LED one, but it won't work. I have accomplished having LED bulbs in the back with standard (incandescent) in the front, and only then it works fine!? With all 4 LEDs L or R turn results to ...hazard lights, i.e. all 4 blinking at once. I tried to follow the schematic, the turn signal circuit does not seem to be using a relay or going thru the ECU. I have no idea what to do to make it work with all 4 LED flashers.

I can provide more details of the different things I tried so far and what was the outcome, as long as there is some one out there who understands this bike's electrical system and has succeeded retrofitting LEDs. Also, any tips/feedback about anything that has to do with LED conversions and especially an H4 headlight that worked for you, would be very appreciated. Thank you !
 
What is this OBSESSION with LED lights?

Why?

Putting LEDs where halogen and incandescent bulbs are supposed to be is not actually an upgrade. It’s a terrible downgrade and even worse, it‘s really utter garbage!

The wiring in your motorcycle turn signal setup, is designed to work with incandescent bulbs. Period.

It has the ability to “detect” when a bulb is burned out to notify you by changing the pattern by which the indicator lights on the dash, flash.

The reason you have “hazard lights” is because of this design. The system cannot read the correct electrical signals in the wiring with those garbage Chinese LED crap.

LED lights do not provide the proper electrical resistance that the system is looking for.

I will never understand this lunacy with LED lights. Never. Never. Never.

They are not better. They are not brighter. They are not compatible with the electrical system design.

Most importantly, the lenses in your lamp reflectors, are not designed to amplify nor condense the light from LED’s, into the correctly condensed and focused pattern.

LED bulbs are the latest total hype bulkshit snake oil garbage that has plagued motorcycling.

Unless your motorcycle was designed around them, at the factory, from the onset, they are not the way to go. Ever.

Honestly.

Just use the standard incandescent and halogen bulbs the system was designed to operate with.

Everything works fine then as it is designed to do.

God I really hate this LED madness. I see more messed up wiring looms at my workshop week after week from this LED bullshit. I now refuse to work on or repair any damage on a motorcycle, caused by this insanity.

People cutting into perfectly good wiring looms and destroying their wiring, all in pursuit of a LED they think is better, when in fact, it is not.

I’m begging you, just put it back the way it is supposed to be and leave it alone. It will work perfectly as designed.
 
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You can disagree all you want but you are wrong.

There is circuitry inside of all of the Moto Guzzi’s from about 1990 onward, that “reads” the resistance in the electrical line. When a bulb burns out, this sudden change in line resistance is detected and the wiring is designed to have “hyper flashing” to alert the pilot. All modern motorcycles by all makers, do this.

As I said, this is by intentional design.

It is intended to instruct the dashboard to flash the turn signal, at a significantly different rate than normal, in order to alert the rider to the fact that a bulb has burned out. (Hyperflashing)

Furthermore, as I stated, the lenses and regulators/concentrators, are designed for the path of travel of the incandescent and halogen bulb design. LED’s by their very nature, cast light in a straight line from the emission point. They cannot function properly with any of these lenses.

Every single light and signal on a motorcycle is chosen for a reason. The system is designed intentionally for a reason.

The models you list are ancient history and have no special designs in their wiring. They are essentially “stupid” electrics. Modern bikes are not.

The internet has numerous very reputable sites which will confirm exactly what I have written here in my previous post. Search “hyper flashing”.

Given that I work with and see this issue virtually almost every week, on modern motorcycles of literally every marque you can think of, I am intimately familiar with it and I am 100% sure of what I am saying here.

Thinking that LED’s will be better than specified incandescent or halogen bulbs, in a system not designed for LED, is complete myth and anecdotal in nature. The actual science and measured light, prove otherwise.

The true benefits of LED lights, require lenses, and reflectors / concentrators that can maximize the light direction and output of LED's. Then they benefits are real and demonstrable. All this "quick switch" Chinese made LED stuff, is pure snake oil hype and causes more problems than it solves.
 
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