V7 Starter switch fail - No Power - Power Loss

[lucydad]

Well... my V7 III starting issue has returned. Happy to see this thread. Maybe I will forward to Mike Haven at MPH here in Houston and see if he can fix my bike? So frustrating: I do NOT trust this machine at all, concerned about being stranded. Noticed: if I toggle the main key, sometimes that helps. Also, literally bump the bike, and that helps. Love the bike, but the starting issue is a big.... ugh.

 

[lucydad]

Lucydad, did you ever install the relay by-pass? That solved my issues completely. Now on year 2 of same lead battery starts every time whether sitting for awhile or not, hot or cold.

No, did not do relay bypass.

 

[Stamatios]

Nope. New battery still nothing.
Time to go to the shop...
Thanks.

 

[Vagrant]

mines been fine since flushing the button with deoit and that's a long time ago.
I do however sometime screw up and hit the mode button by mistake.
please let us know what he finds.

 

[lucydad]

Post below started on this topic. Many of the 2013 ~ current V7 & V9's will have this issue in time. The lower ignition switch wires can become unsoldered (see pic below). You either have to remove and repair, or replace the part by taking it from the new lockset assembly. It is not available from Guzzi outside of the ignition only (2D000351) or the complete lockset (2B003493) including gas cap and seat lock assys. On bikes where you can push the key downwards to get the ignition to come on, the raised solder connection points may need to be restored by building up the domes again. They can wear down with use and time. Will post a pic next we do one in the shop.

View attachment 19155

Todd,
Just so I understand: the picture is the under-side of the V7 III main ignition switch where the top is where key fits? Correct? Seems my best option is to get my bike to Mike Haven at MPH, give him your diagnosis, and let him fix it? Is this an extremely difficult access repair? A question: just what causes this wiring - soldering failure? Is it going to be a repetitive problem every few years? I had Mike clean my main starter switch. I replaced the battery. I spray electronics cleaner on the switch. And my starting problem continues to be erratic. Toggling the key sometimes helps. Literally bumping the bike sometimes helps. Very concerned about every start, and getting stranded. Wow, this has been frustrating. Please guide me a bit more, and I will give repair a go. I very much appreciate your addressing this chronic issue. Guzzi needs better engineering. Thanks!

 

[GTM®]

Just so I understand: the picture is the under-side of the V7 III main ignition switch where the top is where key fits? Correct?

Correct. Mike will know it well (tell him I said hi). Hard to say if it will repetitively fail. Plastic isn’t the most durable material for high heat conditions.

 

[lucydad]

Correct. Mike will know it well (tell him I said hi). Hard to say if it will repetitively fail. Plastic isn’t the most durable material for high heat conditions.

Todd,

Grazie! I will contact Mike Haven, and arrange schedule with my wife for transport. Along with swelling fuel filters, this is one more issue Guzzi needs to address. I guess all bikes have quirks, this one has been a real pain. I will report back results when done.

 

[lucydad]

Well. I have ridden my Special three of the past four days: at least ten, flawless starts. I just don't get it. Before first ride I did put battery on charger. I still wonder if there is some relationship to a fully charged battery? I put a new one in last December.

I can't get motivated to make an appointment at MPH, negotiate a time my wife can follow me into the shop, leave bike, wait, wife again give me ride to shop, hope Mike figures problem out given guidance on this thread on main switch, and home. Right now, I am doing nothing. Will let bike sit a week, and see if it starts or balks. Just erratic.

 

[BenRCMC]

Well. I have ridden my Special three of the past four days: at least ten, flawless starts. I just don't get it. Before first ride I did put battery on charger. I still wonder if there is some relationship to a fully charged battery? I put a new one in last December.

I can't get motivated to make an appointment at MPH, negotiate a time my wife can follow me into the shop, leave bike, wait, wife again give me ride to shop, hope Mike figures problem out given guidance on this thread on main switch, and home. Right now, I am doing nothing. Will let bike sit a week, and see if it starts or balks. Just erratic.

Me and a friend both have 2013 V7 Specials and we've both experienced the wires becoming unsoldered on the back of the key/ignition switch.

Wires coming undone on the back of the switch effectively simulate turning the key to the OFF position. If you're riding along and the engine cuts out if you're still rolling and in gear the bike will jumpstart itself back to life. It's not all bad unless you're halfway through a turn or on a very busy road. Last time it happened to me I was in the middle of the country at 90km/h, nobody behind me, Sena bluetooth connected to my mate (on his V7) so I could tell him I needed to pull over.

If the bike turns off and you panic (like I did the first few times!) and pull the clutch in the bike will not be able to kickstart itself because you're no longer in gear. You will roll to a stop unless you let the clutch out.

Each time this has happened to me I have simply stopped, turned the key off, found the ignition wires on the back of the switch, gave them a little jangle around, turned the bike back on and started the engine again. I have also made sure the ignition switch wiring is not being pinched together with all the other wiring running under the left hand side of the tank.

If you do indeed go back to Mike maybe get him to show you how to get the V7 to turn on without using the key. It's actually a lot simpler than you think and all you'll need is a Swiss Army Knife or Leatherman tool. It's not a permanent fix and it's a bit dodgy but it is better than being stranded in the middle of nowhere...

Last time I spoke to our Guzzi Guru here in Perth he advised me that sometimes the internal mechanism/contacts inside the ignition barrel can wear which has the same effect as the wires becoming unsoldered. Apparently you can buy a new ignition barrel and just swap the electrical part over to your old switch - it may be expensive but it would be better than having to get new keys, new gas cap, seat lock switch, etc...

I am yet to try the contact cleaner but because its cheap to do that's what I'll be doing next! Along with always carrying my Leatherman tool with me...

 

[Vagrant]

I've had the same experience on higher mileage EV's. slightly loose battery connection and the ignition switch needed a good spray of contact cleaner. don't forget to put a rag under the switch to catch the dirty drippings.

 

[lucydad]

Me and a friend both have 2013 V7 Specials and we've both experienced the wires becoming unsoldered on the back of the key/ignition switch.

Wires coming undone on the back of the switch effectively simulate turning the key to the OFF position.

Much appreciated!

I have not ever had my Special just die once running. The issue is a big ++nothing++ when keying the starter switch. Then, if I toggle key, and or move bike a bit, it starts.

Past week I have had my Special out 3 times and at least six starts: flawless, and fun for over 400 miles.

I remain baffled. And two months ago I was ready to give up on this bike for fear of being stranded, and no idea what to do.
I continue spraying electronic cleaner into the switch after every ride.

 

[Vagrant]

stop with the cleaner and give it a hit of deoxit twice a year.

 

[lucydad]

stop with the cleaner and give it a hit of deoxit twice a year.

Ok, I will buy deoxit -- do I need to disassemble the entire switch mechanism? I figured the electronics cleaner spray would at least dry out the switch from our high humidity-- and my occasional rides getting caught in Gulf Coast rains.

Thanks!

 

[Vagrant]

no just give it a blast. it's as much a protectant that as the name states keeps the oxidation from forming.

 

[MLRanner]

Interesting and useful thread.
Having similar issues with my 2013 V7 Special (27k Miles). Randomly encounter complete power loss and its getting more frequent. Turn on the ignition and no lights, no pump or electrical noise. Turn the switch off and on again and perfect, lights up and starts first time. It’s happening on the move too now which isn’t great when you’re in London traffic .
The wiring on the switch is still in place and the solder ‘looks’ okay. Before I spend money on a new switch would love to know if is there anything or anywhere else I should check beforehand?

 

[lucydad]

Interesting and useful thread.
Having similar issues with my 2013 V7 Special (27k Miles). Randomly encounter complete power loss and its getting more frequent. Turn on the ignition and no lights, no pump or electrical noise. Turn the switch off and on again and perfect, lights up and starts first time. It’s happening on the move too now which isn’t great when you’re in London traffic .
The wiring on the switch is still in place and the solder ‘looks’ okay. Before I spend money on a new switch would love to know if is there anything or anywhere else I should check beforehand?

I recommend some de-oxit spray...might solve your issue: it fixed mine...we have a high humid/wet climate on the Gulf coast of TX USA...my bike has started flawlessly now for several months.

 

[Michael Bray]

Had to get my start switch replaced at about 1500 miles. It was sticking in the start position, so the bike would start when I pushed the kill switch to the run position. Tripped a check engine light and traction control fault. (Because of the traction control calibration procedure)

I got on my V9 Roamer yesterday. Here's the quote from a separate thread I started "strange ignition": Weird one today. Turned the bike on - V9 Roamer - pulled in the clutch, and without pressing the ignition button, it fired up. Ive got the warning light and the engine light flashing. It's running fine and I've stopped and started a couple of times today. Anyone ever experience this issue before?

I discovered later that the button was stuck, and all I had to do was pull it back into position. Im curious to know if this is how your problem started and also Im wondering why the start switch had to be replaced. Lubricant couldn't solve the issue or was there other damage that necessitated the new part?

 

[SheikRamzi]

I got on my V9 Roamer yesterday. Here's the quote from a separate thread I started "strange ignition": Weird one today. Turned the bike on - V9 Roamer - pulled in the clutch, and without pressing the ignition button, it fired up. Ive got the warning light and the engine light flashing. It's running fine and I've stopped and started a couple of times today. Anyone ever experience this issue before?

I discovered later that the button was stuck, and all I had to do was pull it back into position. Im curious to know if this is how your problem started and also Im wondering why the start switch had to be replaced. Lubricant couldn't solve the issue or was there other damage that necessitated the new part?

Yes, my problem started in a similar manner. I probably could have done fine without the replacement, but they couldn’t clear the check engine light or the traction control malfunction without replacing the switch. All done under warranty.

 

[Nathan Stanley]

I’ve just experienced this issue as well on my 2013 v7, at 24k. The power would go out to the instrument panel, the engine would die and I would have to restart. I was wiggling wire bundles to recreate the symptoms and the culprit was for the key switch assembly. I pulled the plastic bottom cover from the barrel, and the wires just fell out with it. 1 orange and 1 green. I assume the wires connect where I’ve highlighted in the picture? I’ll pull everything off tomorrow and try to re-solder. The contacts circled in blue are the only other points I can see where anything would be connected. To be clear, this is based on the first posted picture in this thread; this is not the switch assembly from my bike.

 

[Nathan Stanley]

Fixed it!