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Breva 1100 07 front brakes drag after tire change

H

harold james

Just got it firing!
Joined
Jul 23, 2019
Messages
13
Location
medina, tennessee usa
07 Breva less than 5K. Bought used. All fluids replaced July 2019 by qualified service . After tire change, excessive drag. Also left side caliper didn't seem to have good clearance on fork/brake mounting tabs on re-install. Is there some Guzzi technique to installing front tire to avoid the issue or is it a case of clean up and replacing piston seals. No issue with rear brake.
 
There could be brake dust on the pistons, with the caliper off the bike you should be able to press each piston in one at a time, as one goes in the other comes out, don't go to far or you'll pop out the piston, if you push both together the fluid goes back to the master cylinder. Clean 1st with brake cleaner before you check the seals
I had a problem years ago on my Breva where the front brakes locked on. it was caused by the rubber boot up on the brake lever, it had perished and the tiny spring inside it had jumped over the circlip in the master cylinder and caused the piston not to return fully thereby not allowing the fluid back into the master cylinder keeping the brake on. As the disk got hotter the brakes went on harder, i pulled over to see what was up and as i drove into the gravel on the road side the front locked up solid, a change of underwear was called for. I couldn't purchase just the boot and spring so i installed a small washer to stop the return spring from getting on the wrong side of the circlip.
 
Good ideas, guys, of things to check. What's the procedure for replacing/tightening the wheel spindle? I mounted the axle through the forks, tightened the axle nut, mounted the brakes, bounced the forks while holding the brakes in to center the wheel, then tightened the four bolts locking the forks to the axle. I'm thinking the position of the left side fork is off and is at least part of the problem. It's only maybe .060 or .080" out of position. What's the solution to aligning the left side fork? Mount the caliper and pull the fork outward feeling for iight drag on the brake pads and then lock it in place? Fluid will flow back to the MC from both calipers. Pushing one piston in raises the other. Pushing both in returns fluid to the MC. But both calipers drag. After tightening everything up and getting the heavy drag I pulled the left side caliper and I still had a lot of drag on the right side like the pistons weren't retracting. I haven't cleaned them up, yet, and that might help although I did pull the brake pad mounting pins and cleaned them.
 
Pages 183-185 if using Acrobat to read.

SUSPENSIONS - Section

Pages 15-17
 

Attachments

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harold james said:
Good ideas, guys, of things to check. What's the procedure for replacing/tightening the wheel spindle? I mounted the axle through the forks, tightened the axle nut, mounted the brakes, bounced the forks while holding the brakes in to center the wheel, then tightened the four bolts locking the forks to the axle. I'm thinking the position of the left side fork is off and is at least part of the problem. It's only maybe .060 or .080" out of position. What's the solution to aligning the left side fork? Mount the caliper and pull the fork outward feeling for iight drag on the brake pads and then lock it in place? Fluid will flow back to the MC from both calipers. Pushing one piston in raises the other. Pushing both in returns fluid to the MC. But both calipers drag. After tightening everything up and getting the heavy drag I pulled the left side caliper and I still had a lot of drag on the right side like the pistons weren't retracting. I haven't cleaned them up, yet, and that might help although I did pull the brake pad mounting pins and cleaned them.
Click to expand...


You are using a technique for old drum style front brakes. With disk brakes applying the brakes will move the fork leg. Just loose the pinch bolts and axle some then tight the axle and tighten the pinch bolts. If you feel you must bounce the front wheel, do it against a solid object (like a wall) but leave the brakes off.
 
Thanks, everyone, for responding. And thank you, Scott, for the complete manual. My download only had the engine section so I was using my BMW service manual for guidance to replace the front tire and wheel. Unfortunately I'm back to work now so it will be the weekend before I have time to get back to it. I'll post the results next week. Thanks, again.
 
Left fork leg was not parallel. Slight pry pressure moved it out and stayed in place so caliper would mount normally. Pulled both calipers and cleaned with brake cleaner and a stiff toothbrush. Extended the pistons and cleaned them. Moderate amount of brake dust and some slight circular deposits on some pistons. Depressed pistons and mounted calipers. No rub at that point. Pumped the brakes up to normal then let off. Now has some drag through full rotation of tire. Will not spin freely. Too much friction I think to ride it without brakes overheating and locking up. Rear caliper is the same. What's next?
 
Also, the brakes will never ever not drag on the rotors after using them. A very light rub/drag is normal. As long as there enough space in the brake fluid reservoir for the fluid to recede back into, and there is the slight sound and feel of the pads gentle just rubbing the rotors, it’s normal because at speed, they will naturally retract further.

Are you sure of what you are describing?

If so, check the level of fluid to verify that they are not at the FULL level. People always try to fill the reservoir to the absolute full point at this is not necessary and usually causes issues like this.

Never chase the FULL mark on any fluid level. It’s always better to be a little less than absolutely full.
 
The reservoir is about half full. I've never added any. Been on the side of the road with overheated brakes and a stuck piston before. No fun there so I'm a bit leery. Maybe the drag is normal. Just more than my BMW's brakes and more than I remember with Harley brakes. With the wheel of the ground, the wheel will turn with some force but as soon as the force stops, the rotation stops. And there is a distinct "grinding" sound when rotated. Both front and rear. Unlikely, maybe, that the same issue would appear in all three calipers at the same time unless there's an assembly error on my part, something peculiar to Brembo brakes, maybe. So maybe I'll get a chase car with a trailer and ride it and see if it locks up.
 
Unfortunately, what you are asking here, is virtually impossible. We cannot see or hear anything. It’s impossible to diagnose.

Use your phone and make a video and post that here. That would help greatly.
 
harold james said:
The reservoir is about half full. I've never added any. Been on the side of the road with overheated brakes and a stuck piston before. No fun there so I'm a bit leery. Maybe the drag is normal. Just more than my BMW's brakes and more than I remember with Harley brakes. With the wheel of the ground, the wheel will turn with some force but as soon as the force stops, the rotation stops. And there is a distinct "grinding" sound when rotated. Both front and rear. Unlikely, maybe, that the same issue would appear in all three calipers at the same time unless there's an assembly error on my part, something peculiar to Brembo brakes, maybe. So maybe I'll get a chase car with a trailer and ride it and see if it locks up.
Click to expand...
I'll have my B11 on a lift today, I'll spin the front wheel and take some video, post it here. you can compare it to yours.
 
tobinh said:


mine drags a lot too!
Click to expand...


Like I said...

“Also, the brakes will never ever not drag on the rotors after using them. A very light rub/drag is normal. As long as there enough space in the brake fluid reservoir for the fluid to recede back into, and there is the slight sound and feel of the pads gentle just rubbing the rotors, it’s normal because at speed, they will naturally retract further.”

:hi:

Thank you tor posting a very helpful video.
 
Here are links to videos re; brake drag. Front brake drag (heavy), rear brake drag (normal), front brake master cylinder level (level in sight glass). Not sure how to get a nice link like TOBINH but copy and paste the link and I think it will work.


 
harold james said:
Here are links to videos re; brake drag. Front brake drag (heavy), rear brake drag (normal), front brake master cylinder level (level in sight glass). Not sure how to get a nice link like TOBINH but copy and paste the link and I think it will work.


Click to expand...

You have the videos set to private, you have to set them to 'view with link' I believe.

But, so long as the drag you have is roughly like mine, I think you're okay.
 
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