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Exhaust flange nuts

BenRCMC

Tuned and Synch'ed
Joined
Aug 9, 2015
Messages
42
Location
Perth, Western Australia
Hey all, I don't know how I noticed when I was moving my bike yesterday but one of my exhaust flange nuts had backed out and was rubbing on the header pipe. Engine was cold so I nipped it up and thought I'd check the others as well. They were all quite loose - both left and right sides.

Guzzis produce nice low frequency vibrations so I know checking of nuts and bolts is highly recommended. Has anyone else come across the exhaust flange nuts coming loose though?
 
Yes, they come loose quite often. I check them every time my rentals go out. I just had a V7 II Racer in the shop with 38X miles on it, one of the header allen nuts was completely gone, and all of the rest were finger tight. Poor PDI, but they'll loosen within 600 miles even if they were tight when they left the dealer.
 
I have been using stainless nylocs and star washers for years. They melt a tiny bit, but that combination stays put.
 
Howabout double nutting them with a jam nut?
If you use two standard nuts and have enough threads to go thru both that will work; torque to spec.
If you use a thinner jam nut; it goes on first, not last like many people think. Torque.
Probably a better choice is a "flex-top" locknut or a distorted thread locknut
https://www.mcmaster.com/#hex-locknuts/=16685xb
 
I've lost 4-6 flange nuts. Now I loctite them.

I love this video showing how various types of nuts back out due to vibration.... check it out...

 
I've lost 4-6 flange nuts. Now I loctite them.

I love this video showing how various types of nuts back out due to vibration.... check it out...



A problem with Loctite in this application is that it breaks down with heat. Applying heat is a good way to get a Loctite'd fastener loose.

I had momentarily forgotten about Nord-locks. They are probably the best solution. I have used them numerous times.
https://www.mcmaster.com/#nord-lock-washers/=166kpvv

Dan
 
I had momentarily forgotten about Nord-locks. They are probably the best solution.
No M6's there. The factory uses Schnorr. It's more to do with the material compression initially (when new) with the V7's fibrous gaskets.
 
This is how a M6 Nord lock looks on a V7ii.
157chup.jpg
 
A problem with Loctite in this application is that it breaks down with heat. Applying heat is a good way to get a Loctite'd fastener loose.

I had momentarily forgotten about Nord-locks. They are probably the best solution. I have used them numerous times.
https://www.mcmaster.com/#nord-lock-washers/=166kpvv

Dan

Yeah I understand it loosens with heat. But ever since applying it, I have yet to have one loosen up on me.

The problem I had trying to use hex head lock nuts, was getting a socket or open ended spanner on it to get the damn thing off and on.

The Nord locks can get pricey.
 
Hopefully he is using anti seize on the threads. But to be safe give him both values. That said I would torque on the low side as those studs are small.

John, I was being facetious. I don't know or care what the torque value is. I use a 100mm (4") ring spanner and tighten as hard as I can with this pathetic amount of leverage. My arm is calibrated in ft-lbs (not Newton-metres, I'm old skool :angel:).

If he's worried, then the Nord locking washers mentioned above work very well in my experience.

As an aside, I once tried stainless steel locking nuts on one of my Cali 1400s. Now that was a mistake, three of the four galled so tight that they all screwed out of the head, and were impossible to undo even when placed tightly in a vice and a socket bar as long as my arm. Lesson learnt!
 
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