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V7 Stone valve cover bolt/horror story

D

Don Quixote

Tuned and Synch'ed
Joined
Feb 2, 2019
Messages
45
Location
NYC
So here I was attempting to do a valve clearance check/adjustment on my '13 Stone. Pretty easy task except for the imbecile that previously worked on it. I'm not the original owner so I'm not sure if it was a mechanic or the owner that did this imaginable stupidity. He put Loctite on one bolt! Just on one bolt after he realized that he used Loctite instead of anti seize grease.
Long story short... I've had no luck with the hex key obviously...the hole got rounded quickly. Next I used a Dremel tool to make a cut into the bolt's head and attempt to loosen it up with a large flat screw driver. No dice. I sprayed some Blaster PB with the hope that some of it will make it on the threads. Hours later no progress. Sprayed some more and came back the next day. Same story...this bolt won't come loose!
Next step... Using an extractor (first drilling a hole with a left hand bit.)
Nothing! As a last resort and being quite positive that Loctite was used, I used a Bernzomatic butane torch to heat up the bolt and melt the glue. Did it for 1 minute....and nothing happened.
Did it for 2 minutes and still couldn't free the darn thing.
From what I understand 1 minute is sufficient to melt the Loctite or "shake" any rust on the threads.
I cannot imagine that there's any rust on this bolt, just on one bolt, but I'm pretty sure that there's Loctite. A ton of it! I'll give it another try tomorrow and if I have no luck take the bike to a shop and let them play with it.
Right now the only solution I see is to cut open the valve cover to have better access to the bolt so as to heat it up real good or... put a stick of dynamite next to it.
 
napaonline.com/en/p/BK_7769059

those don't look to be very strong bolts to me. I assume it's pretty well destroyed from your description by now. the above impact driver with a high-quality Torx bit might work. first, get the engine as hot as you can then one good hit. But, if you have never used one before make sure you read the directions and try it on a test screw first. there is an art to it.
 
Yes the bolt is kaput but I've purchased 6 new ones (dealer had only 6 and online AF1 Racing had only 4.)
This impact tool looks handy and many thanks for the info/link. I'll give it a try but for the life of me I'm not getting why there would be Loctite in there. Accidents do happen but why didn't he remove and clean the bolt right away? It's only on the upper right one so he knew he put the wrong stuff on since the other ones don't have this crap on...were easy to unbolt.
Thanks again for the tip Vagrant
 
Impact driver?

Are you nuts, Steve? :wait:

That said, what a tale of woe to which I have no answer.

A replacement valve cover at c.$60 -- which, if damaged now to get a prise on that fastener -- is a bit better than a new head at $1100 that an impact driver might damage! :swear:

Good luck, “DQ.”

Bill

P.S. Ah, Steve, thought you meant an air impact tool! ;)
 
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A shop will probably just remove the head of the Allen screw. There will be a bit of shank above the head. Heat and a bit of vice grip work might just be the answer. I do recommend you let the shop do it. If they damage the head it is on them.
 
Don Quixote said:
Yes the bolt is kaput but I've purchased 6 new ones (dealer had only 6 and online AF1 Racing had only 4.)
This impact tool looks handy and many thanks for the info/link. I'll give it a try but for the life of me I'm not getting why there would be Loctite in there. Accidents do happen but why didn't he remove and clean the bolt right away? It's only on the upper right one so he knew he put the wrong stuff on since the other ones don't have this crap on...were easy to unbolt.
Thanks again for the tip Vagrant
Click to expand...

"ours is not to reason why ours is but to do or die"
 
Problem solved. Took it to a mechanic/dealer and what he did have no idea but I should've done that from beginning.
 
Old topic but still a living problem I guess, ends without a practical conclusion for whom complaining from distant dealers . Noticed uneven discoloration of headers on my 2022 v7 special (still running in),left side being darker and decided to check the condition of my spark plugs. Four 3mm allen bolts are prone to damage,had bad experiences about it on my previous bikes therefore I did not try harder with the fear of rounding it. But a three mm allen is loose on some, fits okay on others, ordered a torx, any tips wellcome.
 
Good god people. Just so someone reading this can know for sure.

Valve cover = “holding hot oil in at normal atmospheric pressure”

You do not “tighten” valve cover bolts. Ever. You “snug” them up, cross pattern, gently, all of them first to snug, then tighten again in same cross pattern to an additional 1/8 of a turn. That’s all you need. Nothing more.

It will not leak and you will never destroy the aluminum threads with your steel bolts using this method.

You do not use a torque wrench on these tiny bolts.

You use “wrench feel” with your hand.

Cross pattern Snug, plus 1/8th turn. No more is necessary.

The oil is NOT UNDER PRESSURE in the valve cover!

The valve cover does not hold the engine cylinder together!

The cover need only be nicely snug in order to do its job. Nothing more.
 
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scottmastrocinque said:
Good god people. Just so someone reading this can know for sure.

Valve cover = “holding hot oil in at normal atmospheric pressure”

You do not “tighten” valve cover bolts. Ever. You “snug” them up, cross pattern, gently, all of them first to snug, then tighten again in same cross pattern to an additional 1/8 of a turn. That’s all you need. Nothing more.

It will not leak and you will never destroy the aluminum threads with your steel bolts using this method.

You do not use a torque wrench on these tiny bolts.

You use “wrench feel” with your hand.

Cross pattern Snug, plus 1/8th turn. No more is necessary.

The oil is NOT UNDER PRESSURE in the valve cover!

The valve cover does not hold the engine cylinder together!

The cover need only be nicely snug in order to do its job. Nothing more.
Click to expand...
I will stick to your recommendations if l can undo them for the first time ( it's never serviced before), thanks .
 
I'm glad there was a happy ending to this problem.

A couple of years back on the Royal Enfield Twin forum there was an epidemic of broken valve cover fasteners. Many who suffered from this issue appeared to worship at the Altar Of The Torque Wrench.

Indeed, there is no substitute for "wrench feel".
 
The stock bolts are plated steel. The head is aluminum. Steel is MUCH stronger than aluminum and you will rip the threads out of the head by trying to “tighten” valve cover bolts. Maybe not the first time, but by the third time, your threads will be trashed.
 
I could be able to undo spark plug cover bolts( I bet they were tighter than specified 6 nm torque) discovered two things ;

1. Both spark plug gaps were out of specification (0.8 mm) (bought it new ,500 km on it,never serviced), around 0.6 mm or maybe tighter. Adjusted them correctly, you may want to check it in your new bike. Both looked at the same color although I know left cylinder works hotter (laser thermometer approved, difference is around 30 celcius after a 20 kms ride at iddling) and left header is slightly darker than right

2. One of the bolts at right spark plug cover was turning freely in its thread ....that was a true shock, now what?
 
umtys said:
2. One of the bolts at right spark plug cover was turning freely in its thread ....that was a true shock, now what?
Click to expand...
Do you mean the thread is stripped? Possibly you need to lift out while turning and install a time sert. Helicoil probably won't work as it is a blind hole.
 
It's like somebody in the factory tried to insert a wider bolt and removed it back, original bolt was just moving freely up and down, l don't know how it didn't fall till now
 
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