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V7 Charging issues / Dead battery -- PLEASE READ

He bought an new 2016 V7 Racer with the extended warranty and he is on his third stator.
Stator or voltage regulator? I've merged this thread with this well covered topic. Please read from the beginning.
 
Is this overcharging scenario still an issue on the 2017 V7 III models?
YES!

During my just completed 13,000Km soirée around SE Oz my battery failed,due (yes you guessed it) to overcharging. Ran all the tests and sure enough, 15.6V at idle and >16V at >3,000rpm. I said elsewhere in this thread that I have a FH020AA for this bike, but alas and alac, I was lazy. I s'pose I'll install now that the horse has bolted.

Point of interested: There are very few bikes out there for which either a FH020AA or an SH847 is not ideal.
 
I’ve searched this reasonably long forum to find somebody who made a silly mistake like I did... so far, I’m that special

I have a 2013 V7 Stone according to a parts catalog by VIN. That catalog lists my part number as 883878, a six wire, single phase RR. My bike is a 2014 on my registration for whatever reason and I bought the part for the 2014, it’s 2D000043, a seven wire, three phase rectifier. Is this a suitable RR, even though they have different phases? The bolt holes are perfectly aligned.

Should I order the one from GuzziTech? If so, which one? I see that there is a ‘new’ one that apretarte to also have seven wires and another one that appears to have six wires. I’d like to try to avoid ruining my battery since the unit that just died was putting out 15.5 VDC at idle.
 
I have a 2013 V7 Stone according to a parts catalog by VIN. That catalog lists my part number as 883878, a six wire, single phase RR. My bike is a 2014 on my registration for whatever reason and I bought the part for the 2014, it’s 2D000043, a seven wire, three phase rectifier. Is this a suitable RR, even though they have different phases? The bolt holes are perfectly aligned.
First, congrats on the V7 and welcome to the GT Forum. Hope you'll add your info to the Registry here; https://www.guzzitech.com/forums/threads/v7-registry-picture-thread-add-your-bike.9108/

So the problem lies in that the stock parts are paperweights, new or not. You can simply run two of the three yellow wires if you care to wire the pugs yourself, but one of the upgraded versions I sell on the STORE above is ideal. Most places won't take returns on electrical components, so try what you have if you can't return it. Just monitor voltage closely.
 
one of the upgraded versions I sell on the STORE above is ideal.

Thanks! I’ll add my info soon! This is really my first time adding anything to the forums, but I’ve used them to troubleshoot the other common problems. The fuel filter being one and the kickstand sensor being the other.

when you say one of the ones from GuzziTech, which one would you choose for my bike? The new three phase, or the other single phase? Hopefully I can make the cut off for free shipping too!
 
Virtually all automotive r/r have a 3 terminal plug and a 2 terminal plug. These are sometimes moulded into 1 5 terminal plug. The 3 plug is where the yellow wires directly from your stator connect. This is the AC output from your stator / input into your r/r. There is no special sequence for connecting these 3 yellow wires to the 3 terminals. My V7iii has a single phase stator, hence only 2 yellow wires. Connect them to any 2 terminals in the 3 terminal socket.

The other (the 2 terminal plug) is for the regulated DC output from your r/r to your battery. It is absolutely polar. DON'T connect them the wrong way around. It's best to run these directly to your battery terminals via about a 30 amp fuse.

This the 21st century! The OEM Guzzi r/r is barely 20th century tech - and poorly executed at that. It's Junk! Not even heavy enough for a paper weight. Anything less than a MOSFET r/r is wasted time and money. The Shindengen FH020AA is hard to beat - in fact it's the only one I'll use.

Modern series r/r are good too, though I've found that they don't really like a variable input sometimes. The Shindengen SH847 is an excellent choice if you must have a series r/r. Series r/r will run your stator cooler, which is almost essential if you're racing, but, imo, is not worth it on a streetie - they're quite a bit more expensive.

Shindengen is THE name in automotive rectifier/regulators. They're pretty easy to retro-fit, on a V7 at least, as others have demonstrated in this thread.

Anyone who says that any output voltage above 14.4V is normal is just plain WRONG! You'll probably get way with 14.5V at a pinch without battery damage. The Shindengen FH020AA will output a rock steady 14.4V from idle through to forever. Non-MOSFET r/r will normally run really hot - too hot to touch - that's normal. A MOSFET r/r will run cool to the touch. A series r/r will run your alternator cooler.

This bloke sells really good kits roadstercycle.com - Todd doesn't sell anything like him - but he should.

Phew!!
 
For the 2 Prong connector, does that mean the stator is single phase? I got the ESR r/r and don’t know how to connect the wires (ESR has 3 prongs? 3phase?)
Choose any two of the three and wire into your stock plug.
 
This bloke sells really good kits roadstercycle.com - Todd doesn't sell anything like him - but he should.
The ESR versions I sell are MOSFET and are plug and play. I tried to work with the site you linked, and he was uncooperative saying "why should I discount to you when I can simply sell direct to your customers at retail."
 
The ESR versions I sell are MOSFET and are plug and play. I tried to work with the site you linked, and he was uncooperative saying "why should I discount to you when I can simply sell direct to your customers at retail."
Sorry for that Todd. The last time this topic came up you told me that none of yours were MOSFET. Really glad to see that you've added a MOSFET r/r to your repertoire. As for the bloke at Roadstercycle, obviously, not being a dealer I had no problems having him accept my money - his loss!

So for the rest of the forum, if you're having (over)charging problems, buy an ESR r/r from Todd. In fact, just buy one anyway, coz the junk thing on there now will cost more dearly in the long run.

EDIT: Todd, I just went to your shop and checked out your ESR r/r. You say nothing about MOSFETs. It's that technology which makes superior. Nobody would know that they're buying anything better than the OEM junk.
 
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On the forum site a discussion on high voltage got me looking for another Rectifier regulator. As the story was being told, voltage should never go over 14.4 Volts or damage could occur. So in to the store I go and lo and behold there is a regulator that says it goes to 15.1. Now I was just told not to go over 14.4 or the regulator was bad. Could I have a clarification?
 
My V7iii has a single phase stator, hence only 2 yellow wires. Connect them to any 2 terminals in the 3 terminal socket.

Your wiring does not match the MG Service Station Manual which shows a three-wire connector (three-phase) to the alternator and a four-wire connector (two positive, two negative) to the main harness. And procrastination has its revenge doesn't it? Which RC kit did you buy? And did you get RC's LED voltage indicator?

BTW Vagrant is in new regulator mode with undercharging and apparently connectivity issues.

I haven't received my 2019 V7 III yet but I plan on heated grips and heated vest so being proactive with battery and regulator.
 
Your wiring does not match the MG Service Station Manual which shows a three-wire connector (three-phase) to the alternator and a four-wire connector (two positive, two negative) to the main harness. And procrastination has its revenge doesn't it? Which RC kit did you buy? And did you get RC's LED voltage indicator?

BTW Vagrant is in new regulator mode with undercharging and apparently connectivity issues.

I haven't received my 2019 V7 III yet but I plan on heated grips and heated vest so being proactive with battery and regulator.

I bought the Complete Mosfet Kit FH020AA DIY crimp or solder kit. I've bought 4 of these over the years and usually install them as an early service item. I got lazy with the Gutz and paid the price. Fortunately my battery failed in a town (Ceduna), but still 2,000 Km from home. I had spent several thousand Km way out in remote places in central Oz just days before.

Yes, I did buy his LED voltage meter - once! Don't waste your money. There are myriad neat and better little volt meters out.

The V7iii has a single phase alternator output - absolutely definitely! If you have only 2 yellow wires out of your alternator then it' single phase, not 2 phase. If you have 3 yellow wires then it's 3 phase.

The 2 +ve and 2 -ve wires are simply a cheapskates way to double the current capacity - they're in parallel. It's very common.

13V regulated output is too low. A fully charged 6 cell Pb/acid battery in perfect condition will be 13.2V. 13V charging input will never get your battery fully charged.

Todd still doesn't tell us which one of his r/r is MOSFET. It's the MOSFET tech which you want. Shindengen make plenty of r/r which are not MOSFET - steer away from them too, even though Shindengen stuff is absolutely top quality.

BTW, in an earlier post I said that my Shendengen r/r put out 14.4V. Must have been a brain fart! I meant 14.2V from idle until forever.

MOSFET - Metal Oxide of Silicon Field Effect Transistor. There other types of FETs - IGFETs, JUGFETS and a few other, more obscure ones I can't think of right now.

A MOSFET is basically a solid state switch, capable of switching very high currents (relative to size) in just a few microseconds. Sorta like an SCR on steroids. Because they're so efficient they generate very little heat, so what your old r/r generates as heat becomes useable electrical energy. In a really good system, with really good wiring terminations you can realize electrical gains of up to around 25 Watts. The alternator manufacturer claims a theoretical output in a perfect world. You will NEVER have that output available to use, but MOSFETs will give you more of it to use.
 
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There is a rr that claims 15.1 v output. If we are not suppose to go over 14.4, why is this for sale?
No matter what anyone tells you, 15.1V will kill any current version of Pb/acid batteries. 14.4V is your safe top limit unless it's just an occasional transitory event. Even then, it's a symptom of impending trouble.
 
DP -- thanks for the analysis and recommendations. I understand the benefits of MOSFET regulators. Because I'm going to LED lighting plus heated grips and vest I need a regulator that works past both ends of MG's design load range -- light and heavy. Plus I have to factor the warranty coverage. So maybe 900 mile service and replace MG regulator? Actually 6,200 miles should go by pretty quickly so maybe wait until then? Gotta think about this. Breakdowns can be dangerous as well as expensive.

WRT to voltmeter, in keeping with the rounded look of the Stone I'm thinking maybe full-sweep dial from Autometer adapted to GTM's Dual Gauge Drop Kit. Or maybe someone's multi-gauge...
 
I just use something like this. There are any number of them available, and some just a couple of $. I use a similar looking digital clock. I stick them to the lower inner corner of my mirrors. The do obscure parts of my elbows though - meh!!
ebay.com.au/itm/Battery-Monitor-DC-12-v-LED-Digital-VoltMeter-Gauge-Voltage-Marine-Caravan-Cars/123388180045
 
Thanks to everyone's heads-up I'm going to do the following after the 900 mile service:

Battery -- replace with Shorai LFX21A6-BS12

Regulator -- replace with GTM ESR - New Model if MOSFET or Roadster Cycle FH020AA

Connectors -- get to know my new V7 III with Honda Lithium Dielectric Grease and Loctite Blue at hand.

Voltmeter -- directly connect to the battery something like this (I dropped my original gauge idea as too big, too complicated):

kosonorthamerica.com/product/i-gear-volt-meter-red/

VP -- thanks for the great suggestion for mirror mounting!!
 
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