Exhaust flange nuts

[Benjamin Eley]

Is it dry or lubed torque spec you want?

Both lubed and dry torque specs would be great. I wasn’t planning on using never seize, because I’d rather them not fall off on me, but if you suggest it, it’s easy enough to put it on there. I was reading on some other thread and they were saying 7 ft/lbs, which seems like too much. I want to get them good and tight but also don’t want to pull the stud out of the front of the head.

 

[Benjamin Eley]

John, I was being facetious. I don't know or care what the torque value is. I use a 100mm (4") ring spanner and tighten as hard as I can with this pathetic amount of leverage. My arm is calibrated in ft-lbs (not Newton-metres, I'm old skool ).

If he's worried, then the Nord locking washers mentioned above work very well in my experience.

As an aside, I once tried stainless steel locking nuts on one of my Cali 1400s. Now that was a mistake, three of the four galled so tight that they all screwed out of the head, and were impossible to undo even when placed tightly in a vice and a socket bar as long as my arm. Lesson learnt!

I definitely want to try the Nord locking washers if I have any problems with all new oem nuts and washers.

 

[Adam Davis]

25nm on my Griso.

 

[john zibell]

25nm on my Griso.

Doesn't apply to the small block. Griso has 8mm studs, I think the small blocks are 6mm.

 

[Bill Hagan]

IMO, some fasteners just make using a torque wrench a "too hard to do."

IMO, header flanges can fall into that category. Getting a torque wrench to fit and operate on, e.g., my Norge's "inner" header nuts, at least with the tupperware in place, is an [expletive deleted ].

John Z likes the term "wrench art." He isn't talking about decor.

That's what I use for many applications. Plus -- again, using the Norge as a nonexclusive example -- one cannot trust all Nm values in even the official service manuals.

I may not be a Michelangelo in wrench art, and thus always -- as in ALWAYS -- pull out the torque wrenches for some applications, e.g., remounting wheels and peripherals.

Still, for many to most tightening jobs, I prefer to be as "artistic" as I can. I also use "small brushes," i.e., the smallest, short-handled drivers and sockets I have if I have any concerns about ham-fisting.

The only thing that's fallen off my Guzzis in years was a H-B C-Bow pannier that I was too stooopid to seat and lock before launching.

Bill

 

[Adam Davis]

25nm on my Griso.

Not sure about small block torque settings. As Im sure you are right about lesser values. I was refering to 1200, my motor. Also, here is my assembly formula step by step on what I did to never have a loosened or leaky header on my 1200 through the course of normal operation. Due to a problem with the exhaust flange nuts. I loosened one when i layed bike down misjudging apex on a end of traction senerio. But thats something else all together. I used a very little bit of copper antiseize on the posts long ago. Havn't felt the need to try to remove them corroded devils since then. They are the originals. Copper anti is amazing... When tightening flange nuts I use 1 drop of Loctite 243 on each post and 1 drop on each flange nut. I snug them, all (4) ha ha at 20 nm and tighten all of the rest of the exhaust system up to silent block except the (stock) muffler. That is at the end of my install. Once system is pulled, yanked, jerked and talked nice to I then go back and do a final tighten of them there flange nuts to 25nm. Thats 4 exhaust system removals. And 4 back on installs and I'm at just under 50,000 miles. Also, the flange nuts and super thin washers are originals as well. Those I do not apply anti seize directly to. Also, the header gaskets i use are directional. The metallic side of gaskets always faces towards the headers. Always.

Obviously, eventually I will have to replace posts, washers, and nuts. Most likely last usage this time...thats how I avoided exhaust issues with my bike and its been 100% effective. Good luck. If this helps resolve this issue out there then supercool!

 

[BrianR]

I use Triumph domed flange nuts off a T120 I think, $14 for four and because they are domed and copper grease is applied, they seem easy to remove and then likely the threads wont rust either. They also look a lot better than the rusty originals imo. As for using a torque wrench when putting them on a Stelvio, its likely the torque wrench would have been thrown across the garden instead of the small cheap spanner I used!

 

[Dinsdale Piranha]

A problem with Loctite in this application is that it breaks down with heat. Applying heat is a good way to get a Loctite'd fastener loose.

Try either Loctite 2620
https://www.eis-inc.com/threadlocker/p-loc1138282
or 2422
https://www.eis-inc.com/threadlocker/p-ph11-loc-2422

 

[V7 Dreaming]

Doesn't apply to the small block. Griso has 8mm studs, I think the small blocks are 6mm.

hi,
V7iii has M8 exhaust stud.
Factory recomment torque is 25nm.

 

[V700Steve]

Forever I have been doing smallblock exhaust stud nuts to 10ftlbs and they don't come loose. New bike PDI I check all that stuff, 8mm studs get 23ftlbs and they usually stay tight.