Personalty - I am planning to just remove the pipe that goes back into the manifold and leave the can there to catch overflow and fumes..
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GTM Secondary Air Supply (SAS) V7-9 Block-off Kit
- Thread starter GTM®
- Start date
smithie-53
Just got it firing!
Good Morning,
I read through the thread and research as much as I could, but alas couldn't find the answer to my question...
That being said with my V85 Centenario, I know it being 2021 there isn't a map or crack out for the re-flashing. I know I can run the block-off kit without a map. However, I did purchase arrow de-cat pipes (in-plans on keeping stock muffler) and will be installing them once I'm at my break-in period/1st service maintenance.
From reading the forum, I can use the air block off kit with the pipes to quell the decel popping (once I install the de-cat pipes). However, my main question was will the kit still fit a 2021? I didn't know if there was changed between Euro 4 & 5 which would prevent this kit not working on a 2021? Anyway, if the kit works for '21's I will go ahead and place my order later this afternoon.
Again, I've tried to research and pride myself on researching the forums; but wanted to ask to get a definitive answer. Hope all is well and thank you again for everything!
Much obliged,
Joshua
I read through the thread and research as much as I could, but alas couldn't find the answer to my question...
That being said with my V85 Centenario, I know it being 2021 there isn't a map or crack out for the re-flashing. I know I can run the block-off kit without a map. However, I did purchase arrow de-cat pipes (in-plans on keeping stock muffler) and will be installing them once I'm at my break-in period/1st service maintenance.
From reading the forum, I can use the air block off kit with the pipes to quell the decel popping (once I install the de-cat pipes). However, my main question was will the kit still fit a 2021? I didn't know if there was changed between Euro 4 & 5 which would prevent this kit not working on a 2021? Anyway, if the kit works for '21's I will go ahead and place my order later this afternoon.
Again, I've tried to research and pride myself on researching the forums; but wanted to ask to get a definitive answer. Hope all is well and thank you again for everything!
Much obliged,
Joshua
I've had two people install the SAS on their '21s with no issues. Your bigger issue will be fueling/throttle response with the the exhaust parts without a fueling fix.
smithie-53
Just got it firing!
thanks for the heads up, I appreciate it. As far as this bigger issue, would it be enough of an issue for me to hold off and wait if/when a fueling map solution is available?
Or on the flip side if I do the exhaust and SAS will it make the ride abhorrent or still rideable? Reason I’m asking is I was curious on how the 2021’s rode with the SAS in place (stock or w/ exhaust) without tune.
I would suggest waiting on the exhaust until I have a tune for you, but the SAS only has been installed twice that I am aware of, with good results.
smithie-53
Just got it firing!
Thanks! I’m not in a hurry for performance right now anyway as I’m really happy with her the way she is. Reason I jumped on the pipes was I saw a lot of the Guzzi parts are in short supply, so I figured I’d order and sit on them if need be. I’m more than content on waiting to dive in once the mapping issues are cracked.
I appreciate the feedback and conversation!
Bill Meyer
Cruisin' Guzzisti
I thought I'd add my impressions to this helpful thread. I installed the block off kit this morning. It took me just over one hour but I'll say I have plenty of experience working in tight, often blind spaces, and, fortunately, I have all the tools.
I saw no need to remove any of the spark plug bracketry I noticed when positioning the fuel tank to the left or right sides it seemed prudent to drape a thick towel over the appropriate valve cover. Depending on how much you've moved the tank also be aware of the handlebar switch gear banging into the sheet metal if you turn the bars.
The pinch clamps on the hoses are just a pain in the rear. Once you get the clamps slipped away from the "spigot" a little spritz of WD 40 will make the hoses slip off easily. If they don't cooperate a piece of 1/2" dowel and a few taps from a light mallet will persuade 'em.
I always suffer with trick electrical connections, they just annoy me, every time. I fussed for 10 minutes before I parted the connections but as usual, I don't really know what made it release. We all have our blind spots, eh?
As a previous respondent mentioned this task is easier to perform than explain. Just dig in, you'll git'er done.
I saw no need to remove any of the spark plug bracketry I noticed when positioning the fuel tank to the left or right sides it seemed prudent to drape a thick towel over the appropriate valve cover. Depending on how much you've moved the tank also be aware of the handlebar switch gear banging into the sheet metal if you turn the bars.
The pinch clamps on the hoses are just a pain in the rear. Once you get the clamps slipped away from the "spigot" a little spritz of WD 40 will make the hoses slip off easily. If they don't cooperate a piece of 1/2" dowel and a few taps from a light mallet will persuade 'em.
I always suffer with trick electrical connections, they just annoy me, every time. I fussed for 10 minutes before I parted the connections but as usual, I don't really know what made it release. We all have our blind spots, eh?
As a previous respondent mentioned this task is easier to perform than explain. Just dig in, you'll git'er done.
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I ended cutting the hoses to get the “pump” out and then removed the rest of the pipes on the cylinders.
I was probably over cautious with the tank removal on the First attempt, the wires for the heated grips helped wedge the tank in place, I felt based on past experience I didn’t think I should have to work that hard to move it up out of the way to get the Allen key in place.
I was probably over cautious with the tank removal on the First attempt, the wires for the heated grips helped wedge the tank in place, I felt based on past experience I didn’t think I should have to work that hard to move it up out of the way to get the Allen key in place.
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I just installed mine today took about an hour and a half. Ended up cutting the SAS pump hoses off the breathers with a razor blade so I had much better access to the Allen screws. I'll say make sure your Allen key or socket is all the way in the screw. They're pretty soft and started to strip one before I noticed. Other than that after a quick ride the throttle isn't as grabby and noticeably less engine braking. I run agostinis with no baffles and there's noticeably less popping too. I will eventually get a tune but so far happy with this easy install. Will report back after a longer ride. Thanks GTM!
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2021 850 Special - just ordered the SAS - Air Block-off Kit and added to future maintenance items
- OEM V7-850 E5 Windscreen - waiting to arrive.
- "OEM length" polished Agostini's - assuming that is even an option.
- Todd's near FUTURE ECU flash for this V7-850 model.
- EVAP assy mod.
- OEM V7-850 E5 Windscreen - waiting to arrive.
- "OEM length" polished Agostini's - assuming that is even an option.
- Todd's near FUTURE ECU flash for this V7-850 model.
- EVAP assy mod.
Thanks, but note the SAS kit is not yet fully developed for the V7-850. The block-off plates will of course work, but the pigtail will not. Just FYI.
Lads, plz don't curse at me much if this was answered before, I'm struggling with that search function and it doesn't work for me as I'd like to.
So... I got my SAS block tabs in the mail for my 21' V7 E5. I am going to install them it without fuel mapping coz I'll be "emptying" that space under the tank shortly. Upmap with fuel map will come later when I finish welding my exhaust, and few people did it already without any changes or issues after. In SAS product description for V7 E5 it says "LEAVE THE STOCK SAS PUMP IN PLACE AND DISCONNECT OR REMOVE THE TUBING, USE ONLY THE BLOCK-OFF PLATES AND AIR BOX CAP.
So my question is, why??? I don't want it there hanging like a pair of... ehm.... LOL
Is it suggested so because the pump has to be electronically connected not to trigger engine light? Presuming that majority of owners won't start dissecting everything? Like that valve for Evap can delete, where it does nothing after Evap removal but will trigger engine light if disconnected.
So... I got my SAS block tabs in the mail for my 21' V7 E5. I am going to install them it without fuel mapping coz I'll be "emptying" that space under the tank shortly. Upmap with fuel map will come later when I finish welding my exhaust, and few people did it already without any changes or issues after. In SAS product description for V7 E5 it says "LEAVE THE STOCK SAS PUMP IN PLACE AND DISCONNECT OR REMOVE THE TUBING, USE ONLY THE BLOCK-OFF PLATES AND AIR BOX CAP.
So my question is, why??? I don't want it there hanging like a pair of... ehm.... LOL
Is it suggested so because the pump has to be electronically connected not to trigger engine light? Presuming that majority of owners won't start dissecting everything? Like that valve for Evap can delete, where it does nothing after Evap removal but will trigger engine light if disconnected.
Ah, looking at the part for your *newer* bike it does not include plug to terminate the circuit.
So for those bikes you need to keep the pump attached and hide it somewhere ??
OR you could hook up an oscilloscope / meter and figure out what it does ( circuit logic) and make your own plug to keep the ECU happy ;(
So for those bikes you need to keep the pump attached and hide it somewhere ??
OR you could hook up an oscilloscope / meter and figure out what it does ( circuit logic) and make your own plug to keep the ECU happy ;(
This is on a E5 V7-850? No check engine light if yes?
Yes. The pump is small enough to tuck up under the tank, and not have to worry about it from there. It’s just proven easiest and most reliable.
Gotcha, that's what I thought, thanks boss
To whoever is gonna install SAS block kit, it's wAAAy easier to do it with your tank off, just sain
As per video, just by lifting tank it's all good but I think it'd be faster and less swearing just to take off the tank and have all the access ya need. I was taking off my tank to make sm space there anyway, so, just my opinion on this, and I didn't have to cut any hoses as well
As SAS pump has to be plugged in and I didn't want it hanging there, I opened wiring tray and fished out pump's connector to the top. plugged the pump back in and ziptied in place:
After under wiring tray was cleared, I cut off unnecessary brackets left from SAS pump and crankcase breather hose (more info on that is on V7 850 Mods thread):
I haven't re-mapped my fueling yet, that's coming later. I'll ride for a bit as it is and will report later if there's any changes
As per video, just by lifting tank it's all good but I think it'd be faster and less swearing just to take off the tank and have all the access ya need. I was taking off my tank to make sm space there anyway, so, just my opinion on this, and I didn't have to cut any hoses as well
As SAS pump has to be plugged in and I didn't want it hanging there, I opened wiring tray and fished out pump's connector to the top. plugged the pump back in and ziptied in place:
After under wiring tray was cleared, I cut off unnecessary brackets left from SAS pump and crankcase breather hose (more info on that is on V7 850 Mods thread):
I haven't re-mapped my fueling yet, that's coming later. I'll ride for a bit as it is and will report later if there's any changes
kildareman
Cruisin' Guzzisti
Yes leave plugged in otherwise it will throw a code. I blanked the the ports with heat shrink tubing and left it in its mount.
One question, is it possible that deleting the sas can also change the sound of the exhaust? I currently like the sound of my agostini, I took out the catalyst from the H pipe. I would like to block the sas, but the guzzi tech store does not deliver to my country. Can I just block sas reed valve on the cylinder heads?